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screen printing => Waterbase and Discharge => Topic started by: tonypep on June 17, 2016, 02:42:09 PM
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But DC to the rescue again. No big piece of plastic.
yay
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on the flip side, if you're a plasti shop and had to do this DC on a friday..
that blue rocks!
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DC underbase with opaque WB on top or just DC opaque colors?
By the time I mix all those colors I'd be halfway done with a plastic-y print lol but I wouldn't want to wear it!
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DC colors no base
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Looks great. I'm surprised that the red shirt discharged as well as it did...
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I'd be even more surprised if the red shirt washed well. A lot of white DC prints that look great on red before turn to dirt after washing.
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I'd be even more surprised if the red shirt washed well. A lot of white DC prints that look great on red before turn to dirt after washing.
Up the fixer and that should help a little with wash fastness.
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I'd be even more surprised if the red shirt washed well. A lot of white DC prints that look great on red before turn to dirt after washing.
Up the fixer and that should help a little with wash fastness.
We don't use or need fixatives with DC ink, hurts more than it helps if you are properly curing.
And sorry Tony I didn't mean to be on the negative, that is a waaaay better print than it would've been with plastisol.
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DC underbase with opaque WB on top or just DC opaque colors?
By the time I mix all those colors I'd be halfway done with a plastic-y print lol but I wouldn't want to wear it!
Like plastisol once you go all water base you have your stock and pantones mixed. With discharge you only activate what you need. Great shirt Tony. The only way in my opinion!
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We don't use or need fixatives with DC ink, hurts more than it helps if you are properly curing.
I use matsui every day and if i dont use the fixer, we get those muddy looking shirts after a few washings. im wearing one of our shirts right now that was printed months ago and its still wicked white. i cant say that about the ones without the fixer.
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We don't use or need fixatives with DC ink, hurts more than it helps if you are properly curing.
I use matsui every day and if i dont use the fixer, we get those muddy looking shirts after a few washings. im wearing one of our shirts right now that was printed months ago and its still wicked white. i cant say that about the ones without the fixer.
How are you curing?
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I'll back John up on this one... Matsui without 3% fixer-N doesn't do so well in wash tests.
we are curing with a M&R Mini-Sprint (Gas) 4fpm belt speed in a 10' chamber (2.5 min of retention time) at 350 degrees.
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How are you curing?
Workhorse Quartz bulb dryer. It's slow as molasses but the cure is solid without a doubt.
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Well that's good to know, we do use some Matsui hsa product.
Over here in Rutland land the last time we used a fixer "fiberlock" the test print washed worse than without.
Anyone need some fiber lock by the way? Haha.
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Well that's good to know, we do use some Matsui hsa product.
Over here in Rutland land the last time we used a fixer "fiberlock" the test print washed worse than without.
Anyone need some fiber lock by the way? Haha.
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We run fixer in all our Rutland discharge. Keeps the colors a lot brighter than without it after tons of washes. We also use only high mesh so it helps hold the thinner deposit better. We cure with a Mini Sprint.
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What fixative do you use?
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Second that.. What fixer are you using for the Rutland WB system?
Would love to know... Fiber lock does not do it.
John
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Matsui Fixer-N. If you use the F then you have a pot life on the ink which is a waste.
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I use zero additives.......unless you count water ;)
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Ok, we use Fixer WF-N with Matsui HSA here, no issues dropping it into Rutland WB-99?
I'll check into this, anything to further help the wash process is alright by me.