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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Shawn (EIP) on October 30, 2011, 01:11:36 PM
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(http://hphotos-iad1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/317420_311326008884539_100000214276131_1421864_68519709_n.jpg)
Contemplating on ordering 2 more side clamps... Still waiting on the new regi nylon bolts to come in for the back clamp heads but shes cleaned up, painted and ready to print.
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Looks like a good job. One thing. I noticed you have your Jennings up for sale. I take it you haven't printed with the Workhorse yet, so I'm wondering if maybe caution might be the watchword of the day and hold off on getting rid of the Jennings until you've produced some work on the Workhorse. Better to find out you'd prefer the Jennings after all than watch it roll down the street, then discovering some quirk in the Workhorse that you find intractable. Just sayin'.
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Looks like a good job. One thing. I noticed you have your Jennings up for sale. I take it you haven't printed with the Workhorse yet, so I'm wondering if maybe caution might be the watchword of the day and hold off on getting rid of the Jennings until you've produced some work on the Workhorse. Better to find out you'd prefer the Jennings after all than watch it roll down the street, then discovering some quirk in the Workhorse that you find intractable. Just sayin'.
I have printed some 2 color stuff but not all 6 heads yet, the regi's are much nicer and the screen pitch knob is a very nice adjustment to have as well. I also like the fact I can use auto frames so I can start collecting those for when it's time to get the auto.Waht I'll miss about the Jennings is that it takes way less effort to bring the screen up and down which would make it a better press for long runs. The idea of selling the Jennings at this point is that it's worth more I can get more for it and sell it for something else I can put in the shop to generate money like a nice used pro vinyl cutter and vinyl supplies or maybe throw down a down payment on Homers auto who knows...
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i see you got 2 back clamps and 4 side clamps
what would be the use for it
just curious ;)
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i see you got 2 back clamps and 4 side clamps
what would be the use for it
just curious ;)
Bought 4 sets of side clamps from ebscreen at a killer price, otherwise I would have stuck with the rear clamps. Like I said above I may switch those 2 rear clamps for side clamp upgrades in the future.
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hey one more curiosity
in your jennings press what was the maximum screen size
thanks
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hey one more curiosity
in your jennings press what was the maximum screen size
thanks
Whats nice about the Jennings is that it has a spring tension control so it can hold up a manual 23 x26 newman or chase frames just fine. I have even managed to load a 26 x 31 all round frame (though not the best idea clamping a round bar). If your printing 1 color I've loaded a rather large all over print aluminum frame.
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([url]http://hphotos-iad1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/317420_311326008884539_100000214276131_1421864_68519709_n.jpg[/url])
Contemplating on ordering 2 more side clamps... Still waiting on the new regi nylon bolts to come in for the back clamp heads but shes cleaned up, painted and ready to print.
Dude, that thing is tits.
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I have even managed to load a 26 x 31 all round frame (though not the best idea clamping a round bar).
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A piece of L shaped angle iron that extends over the edges on the corners will cure any issue of rollers and rear clamps.
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I have even managed to load a 26 x 31 all round frame (though not the best idea clamping a round bar).
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A piece of L shaped angle iron that extends over the edges on the corners will cure any issue of rollers and rear clamps.
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You would think so and I tried exactly that but it doesnt work with an L shape strip your still going to have a round clamping surface on the top or bottom and that surface will still want to break loose after so many prints. When doing this it was for 1 hit dark on light shirts (all over torso prints) so it wasnt a big deal but every 12 or so shirts there would be a pitch that had to be fixed. All in all round frames in a back clamp...bad idea.
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Looken good!
I'm converting my side clamps on the HD Max printer from the single bolt type to a plate clamp so they stop marking up my roller frames.
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What were you using? I've done it often and for long runs/multi color etc. and it's never budged a hair. As long as the L is rigid you are essentially extending the rear clamp and clamping over the flat edges of the screen corners and not the round bar.
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What were you using? I've done it often and for long runs/multi color etc. and it's never budged a hair. As long as the L is rigid you are essentially extending the rear clamp and clamping over the flat edges of the screen corners and not the round bar.
I guess 2 flat bars top and bottom and c clamps at the corners would work but never tried, now I don't need to ;)
Being both RJennings press owners, I'm sure you've heard Rogers rant about the pitch control being an abomination for screen printing presses but man... pitch control is the bees knees!
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Looken good!
I'm converting my side clamps on the HD Max printer from the single bolt type to a plate clamp so they stop marking up my roller frames.
Yeah my old Harco was like that, all of my Newmans have dents from those damn things, doesn't effect the frame at all but still.
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I'm sure you've heard Rogers rant about the pitch control being an abomination for screen printing presses but man... pitch control is the bees knees!
I never understood Roger's crusade against pitch control. Or his insistence that cap film MUST be used.
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Damn, that thing looks pretty sweet.
I do have 2 more side clamps, but I wanted to hold on to them for the time being.
If something changes you'll be the first to know.
Also, you can get a piece of 1.25" (I think) square tubing, clamp it in a regular head like
like a manual frame, then put the side clamps on it. This would allow a screen width as wide
as you like, or as big as your springs can handle.
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Damn, that thing looks pretty sweet.
I do have 2 more side clamps, but I wanted to hold on to them for the time being.
If something changes you'll be the first to know.
Also, you can get a piece of 1.25" (I think) square tubing, clamp it in a regular head like
like a manual frame, then put the side clamps on it. This would allow a screen width as wide
as you like, or as big as your springs can handle.
Yeah I thought about that, called Workhorse asked them how much for just the clamps no bar, 75.00 each 150.00 a set or 200 for the whole upgrade.
Please let me know when you want to part with those other 2 or even just one more... I plan to have the whole press side clamps within the next few months. Someone over tightened the crap out of the rear clamps making the pins pop through the clamping bar and denting the frames, looks as if they were over clamping for all round frames. They over tighted the plattens too denting the arm from underneath, I having some flat metal stock welding underneath to fix that issue. They must of had gorillas for employees.
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Will do. I like having at least 2 for when we run a job on the auto and find a defect on a couple pieces.
I can set it up real quick on the manual and not tie up the auto.
That said, the manual has not moved for a month or so at least.
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Will do. I like having at least 2 for when we run a job on the auto and find a defect on a couple pieces.
I can set it up real quick on the manual and not tie up the auto.
That said, the manual has not moved for a month or so at least.
Telling from your pic looks like you have an older workhorse as I see the base is bolted together not welded, sort of looks like a Hopkins bottom.Older Hopkins and Workhorse presses are very simular.
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Yep, both companies actually used to be based in the Bay Area, 20 miles apart or so.
My Workhorse has the old San Pablo address, and Hopkins (one of them) still has a storefront
in San Leandro, though I'm not sure what they do there anymore.
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Yep, both companies actually used to be based in the Bay Area, 20 miles apart or so.
My Workhorse has the old San Pablo address, and Hopkins (one of them) still has a storefront
in San Leandro, though I'm not sure what they do there anymore.
Just checked same here the badge reads San Pablo, so mine must not be too much newer and it was the old darker teal/blue paint job before I painted it. Yours is the newer blue so now I'm confused... :-\
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I think that the San Pablo location closed only about five years ago, but I may be off as time flies when you're having fun (or in my case, time's fun when you're having flies)
And,yes, I was quite disappointed when I lost a local parts source just when I was getting going with my Mach VI
Of course, all three local suppliers dealt them. In fact, when I was looking to get going again after my fire, I was almost seduced by a killer deal on a new/old leftover Odyssey at Denco. After a 4/1 Hopkins, most any modern press looked tempting, but I held out for a great used deal on a much more solid investment.
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Attn: workhorse owners... any idea of the size and thread type I should be looking for , for the regi gate bolts and the right/left handed mico rod ends(eye bolts)? WH sells them kind of expensive and I've busted 3 more left handed micros than I ordered. Would like to order them from a north/east coast source. I beleive they may be metric? Would love to order them in bulk for peace of mind.
I think the cleaning solvent that I dipped the head parts into weakened the plastic. I used press wash , soaked for an hour or so in a small bucket.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-hex-head-cap-screws/=equrs9 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-hex-head-cap-screws/=equrs9)
still looking for the micro rod ends...
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When I had my RJennings press I bought a bunch from my local Fastenal store. I just brought when in and said, "I need some of these". If you don't have one you can always bring the bolt to a home depot and sue there little tool to see what the TPI is
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When I had my RJennings press I bought a bunch from my local Fastenal store. I just brought when in and said, "I need some of these". If you don't have one you can always bring the bolt to a home depot and sue there little tool to see what the TPI is
I checked every hardware store in my area including lowes and home depot no one has anything that big or thread size. I even tried some oldschool mom and pop shops that has funky stuff you cant find anywhere else, no dice... :-\
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
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When I had my RJennings press I bought a bunch from my local Fastenal store. I just brought when in and said, "I need some of these". If you don't have one you can always bring the bolt to a home depot and sue there little tool to see what the TPI is
I checked every hardware store in my area including lowes and home depot no one has anything that big or thread size. I even tried some oldschool mom and pop shops that has funky stuff you cant find anywhere else, no dice... :-\
Home Depot or Lowes won;t have them, but they will have the thing that you can use to determing thread count and size. Then that way you will know exactly what to order from McMaster.
Here are some Fastenal stores that look like they may be near you. They should have them or be able to get them in in a couple of days. That way you can show them what you have and they can match it. I'm pretty sure I got some from them a few years back.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex?action=search&searchType=locations&zip=14621 (http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex?action=search&searchType=locations&zip=14621)
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
Just checked the regi bolts are M12 , Fastener doesnt go past M10. Still unsure of the rod ends (micros) , starting to think those are custom made for WH. I'm almost thinking about going metal on those and see if there's really any difference.
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
Just checked the regi bolts are M12 , Fastener doesnt go past M10. Still unsure of the rod ends (micros) , starting to think those are custom made for WH. I'm almost thinking about going metal on those and see if there's really any difference.
Next time go American. USA! USA! USA!
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incase anyone one is interested and wants to save this link if you have WH mach IV you want M12 1.75 35-40 mm , the press has 40mm but theres lots of room so 35 should be enough with the existing lock nut from the replaced bolt.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-hex-head-cap-screws/=eqvckd (http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-hex-head-cap-screws/=eqvckd)
35 is 10 for 7.16 , WH has them for close to 2.00 each.
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
Just checked the regi bolts are M12 , Fastener doesnt go past M10. Still unsure of the rod ends (micros) , starting to think those are custom made for WH. I'm almost thinking about going metal on those and see if there's really any difference.
Next time go American. USA! USA! USA!
Workhorse is USA , they need to go USA lol . Metric is so much more expensive than standard.
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
Just checked the regi bolts are M12 , Fastener doesnt go past M10. Still unsure of the rod ends (micros) , starting to think those are custom made for WH. I'm almost thinking about going metal on those and see if there's really any difference.
Next time go American. USA! USA! USA!
Workhorse is USA , they need to go USA lol . Metric is so much more expensive than standard.
Way off topic, but think of how much money we would save on tools if America went to metric.
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Nothing...because there is too much old equipment out there that would need standard to still service it. It would take a couple decades to actually see a cost savings.
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Nothing...because there is too much old equipment out there that would need standard to still service it. It would take a couple decades to actually see a cost savings.
At least a couple decades, but in the long run it would be the best thing.
When I was a bicycle mechanic, I grew so accustomed to metric sizing that anytime I had to switch to standard it just seemed goofy.
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Yeah, I also have whitworth wrenches. Even though the car is 50 years old, they are still made, and available. At this point, who cares? We'd be better off not minting pennies and instead mint dollar coins...instead of paper.
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Look for a specific fastener store. Usually under "fasteners" in the yeller... er google.
Just checked the regi bolts are M12 , Fastener doesnt go past M10. Still unsure of the rod ends (micros) , starting to think those are custom made for WH. I'm almost thinking about going metal on those and see if there's really any difference.
Next time go American. USA! USA! USA!
This is definitely one place that I REALLY LOVE the metric system. I do wish we would convert everything it is so hard to convert lbs, miles, a person's height and other daily things. But when it comes to tools... oh how I love metric. Maybe because I've always had foreign vehicles.
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My Workhorse fellows.... Just scored 2 bags of 25 for 1.75 (per bag of 25) . Way more than I need but if you need a few see me lol. Or order a bag yourself. After shipping it came to .20 ea.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OCUVTE/?tag=lucky84-20 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OCUVTE/?tag=lucky84-20)
Looks like I'm stuck with WH on the regi rod ends though...
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it sounds you like your WH features registration, pitch control, etc.
it helps clearing some the smoke out of my head
what if WH comes with air lock would it be a major improvement for setting screen quiker?
just wondering
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it sounds you like your WH features registration, pitch control, etc.
it helps clearing some the smoke out of my head
what if WH comes with air lock would it be a major improvement for setting screen quiker?
just wondering
Airlocks on a manual seems to me like an overkill and not needed in the least.
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Airlocks on a manual seems to me like an overkill and not needed in the least.
Not until you've used it. Chameleon + airlocks + tri loc = 8 seconds to register each color. Breakdown is almost instantaneous.
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agreed. once you've used airlocks, you never go back.
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Anyone ever had such a hardtime ordering parts from WH?
N/M got it sorted out but 65.00 for 5 little plastic rod ends after shipping HOLY CRAP!
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Not counting time at the light table (less than a minute per color), this is how long it takes to register each color on the press:
Lock... (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM-Nly5VSn8#)
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Anyone ever had such a hardtime ordering parts from WH? Ordered parts last Thursday never got my order confirmation, checked the bank the charge was never made then called on Friday they knew nothing about any order being placed. Called today to cancle that order, still cant find the order from thursday or friday... ok so I gave them a new order for just the rod ends. Still no confirmation email. WOW!!! If I call back tomorrow and have to go through this again, I'm gonna say screw it and rig something up from home depot. >:(
I've never placed an order with them but they were helpful on the phone with questions. Sounds like they were having a holiday weekend. All week.
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Anyone ever had such a hardtime ordering parts from WH? Ordered parts last Thursday never got my order confirmation, checked the bank the charge was never made then called on Friday they knew nothing about any order being placed. Called today to cancle that order, still cant find the order from thursday or friday... ok so I gave them a new order for just the rod ends. Still no confirmation email. WOW!!! If I call back tomorrow and have to go through this again, I'm gonna say screw it and rig something up from home depot. >:(
I've never placed an order with them but they were helpful on the phone with questions. Sounds like they were having a holiday weekend. All week.
N/M got it sorted out but 65.00 for 5 little plastic rod ends after shipping HOLY CRAP!
Win some and lose some I guess.
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I live 15 mins from workhorse. I order the parts then go pick them up. I have never had a problem. I really like the company they know what they are doing.
Endless - I have never broke one of those bolts. You have a lifetime supply thats for sure.
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Shawn,
What made you switch to side clamps?
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Shawn,
What made you switch to side clamps?
Number 1 reason is to use and start collecting auto frames. I have also decided to make my stand alone vac press an attachment , larger frames will be needed for flat stock printing.Bonus reasons: eliminates any side to side movement thus tighter regi and increases the value of the press.
My first real press a Harco had side camps, I dug em... kind of missed them since but not the press :P
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Aren't the side clamps held in by the back clamp? If so then how does that help side to side movement?
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Aren't the side clamps held in by the back clamp? If so then how does that help side to side movement?
Quiet, you!
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On the workhorse press I think the side clamps bolt on the same way the back clamp attaches. You don't just attach the side clamps like a screen in the back clamps. I personally wouldn’t like the side clamps. I don't see the reason for them if I have never had a registration problem, even with auto screens. I think they would just take longer.
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Gotcha... I tried to look at the photos but couldn't really tell.
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They really earned their keep when they did double duty also helping level warped screens. Not as much of an issue with many folks today getting away from wood.
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Never had a reg problem with regular back clamps either.
But if you want to use auto rollers on a manual you gotta pay to play.
I don't like them either, they do take more time. Most of that
time being turning the screen clamp knobs. Airlocks would
negate this.
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Never had a reg problem with regular back clamps either.
But if you want to use auto rollers on a manual you gotta pay to play.
I don't like them either, they do take more time. Most of that
time being turning the screen clamp knobs. Airlocks would
negate this.
Less than a minute to tighten down a screen . I guess when I start printing a few thousand a day those few minutes might be more valuable. ;D I noticed that with side camps all that's needed is to snug up the tightening knobs unlike back clamps where you have to get that sucker pretty tight without pitching the screen. I have a bad tendency to lean on my larger screens with my "printers gut" that'll sometimes push the screen side to side up front just a hair. Another nice thing is take a bungie cord and make a nice squeegie rest around the set of knobs closest to you for those left chest prints.
getting the itch to try 4c process on this beast