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General => General Discussion and ??? => Topic started by: jgray@promocentric.net on October 19, 2016, 04:35:02 PM
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I have a client that wants a sand-paper like feel to the ink, literally. Like grip tape on a skateboard.
Any ideas/suggestions?
jgray@promocentric.net
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might be a heat transfer vinyl that fits the bill. You may be able to use some kind of grit in a glitter base. I haven't heard of an ink like that though honestly.
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You might be able to use a 40 or 60 mesh mix in actual sand at fine to medium grit with some HD inks.
He would need a really thick stencil. Coated maybe 6 to 8 times.
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I was going to somewhat facetiously suggest finding some white ink from Union circa 1990.
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You might be able to use a 40 or 60 mesh mix in actual sand at fine to medium grit with some HD inks.
He would need a really thick stencil. Coated maybe 6 to 8 times.
Be very very careful while printing - the sand will grind away at your emulsion/mesh/and blade!!!!
You can also sprinkle sand over the wet ink area - kinda like doing sugar glitter - and lightly press it into the ink.....
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You can also print a gel clear like Wilflex HD Clear - through a thick stencil. Then scatter sand across the wet film and then cure. Sawdust, lots of things can be done this way/ Think caviar beads if you were around during that trend.
As always, test and wast test.
LOL - I posted this at the same time as Colin. Great minds an all! :)
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i would print a clear gel on top (unflashed) of the print and go with sugar glitter as well.
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get a screen with tension under 10 preferably an 86 mesh, print on contact with the thickest oldest ink you can find, make sure the screen doesn't clear, use no spray tack and there ya go. I have printed those when I first tried printing years ago.
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Thumbs up Rob!
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I'm sure the screen/emulsion wont last 500 prints but should be ok at 24-48 of them. The simplest way is as they stated, to sprinkle over top, but I never felt those "stayed" on the shirt for long. Glitter especially.
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If the "flake" is pressed into the right adhesive ink. The print longevity is really good.
There are a lot of printers who figured how to have the flake applied during the print run (dropping through a 36 mesh) - that application process will have wash issues.
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You might be able to use a 40 or 60 mesh mix in actual sand at fine to medium grit with some HD inks.
He would need a really thick stencil. Coated maybe 6 to 8 times.
Be very very careful while printing - the sand will grind away at your emulsion/mesh/and blade!!!!
You can also sprinkle sand over the wet ink area - kinda like doing sugar glitter - and lightly press it into the ink.....
Time to bust out those nylon screens you thought were worthless. ;)
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Not something I would probably print, but after reading all the comments, several suggested sprinkling sand on the wet ink but then expressed concerns about it falling off and not getting into the ink enough.
What about using a second coated no-image screen to flattening the sand down into the ink like some use to flatten down shirt fibers. That would eliminate the worry about early failure of the screen image and chewing up the squeegee.
Also, how about using an old kitchen type flour sifter to control even shaking of the sand?
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Gotta say, this is why I love screen printing. Always thinking.
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chill the ink, zero off contact , add some extra tac to the pallet, pop the screen re-phrase lift the screen quickly that should make one hell of a mess.
your other opportunity is to lay down your print initially, then take a coated screen exposed blank, no image and drop it down on the wet ink to get a good coating of the image on the bottom side of the blank screen.
Flash heat a pallet get it pretty darn warm then drop the blank screen with the ink transfer on the bottom on the hot pallet to kind of cure the ink on the bottom side of the screen Teflon sheet or parchment paper between the hot pallet & screen bottom let the ink cure while the screen sucks up the heat.
You now have a reverse image on your "stamping screen" print your print drop your "stamping screen"on it with run a squeegee down the "stamping screen" to introduce it to the print ink ( spray the squeegee side of the "stamping screen"with silicone spray to allow the squeegee to slide ) and stamp your fresh print against the "stamping screen" and lift it with a pop...ink likes to stick to itself so it should make a MESS of everything.
Or you could just go to home depot and get some stair tread tape the rough 3M type with adhesive back or a large sheet of that mean sandpaper used on the large floor sanders attach it to the bottom side of your stamping screen and stamp in the pattern.
This is the kind of crap that created the greatness in this business be bold innovate roll the dice and take some advice from Bluto
come on where is the spirit where is the guts this could be the greatest print of your life................. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7vtWB4owdE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7vtWB4owdE)
mooseman :o
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Out of all the dry glitter applications, sugar glitter has worked the best for me when it comes to sticking. It makes a mess but it does stick well to wet gel. There used to be something called thermoline clear from rutland I think. It was a little thicker than pancake syrup. This is want I printed and left wet on top of the design. I would make a glitter screen on 40m with the design burned on it. I would use on old squeegee back and forth twice to sift the glitter. quarter inch or more off contact. After the cure, air hose. I will never use dry flake again, because of the mess, but when I did, this was the method.
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Out of all the dry glitter applications, sugar glitter has worked the best for me when it comes to sticking. It makes a mess but it does stick well to wet gel. There used to be something called thermoline clear from rutland I think. It was a little thicker than pancake syrup. This is want I printed and left wet on top of the design. I would make a glitter screen on 40m with the design burned on it. I would use on old squeegee back and forth twice to sift the glitter. quarter inch or more off contact. After the cure, air hose. I will never use dry flake again, because of the mess, but when I did, this was the method.
That's the method where you get lots of flake washing off...
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I saw something like that at wilflex booth last year at the iss show.
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Classic company name and icon.
Wish I had thought of something like that :)