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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Rockers on December 12, 2016, 07:00:40 PM
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What`s everyone using to sharpen their rubber?
I looked at several options, Fimor, Lawson, some stuff from China as it is close to our door and some other fringe players. So far I like the Chinese model mainly because of the price and the Lawson one, EZ-Auto Sharp as I bet the quality is better while the price is still OK.
What do I need to look out for when getting a fine piece of equipment like that?
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This is one thing I know little about, but know that all the top good ones sharpen often.
I'd like this info also.
following.
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I bought a used fimor. It's one of the better investments I've made. I sharpen my blades about once a month or before each process job. Ink clears the screen much easier w/less pressure. It's well worth what you'll spend on it.
One thing you'll notice is that even when you replace your existing rubber, if you'll sharpen the new rubber, how uneven it is. I always sharpen the replacement to ensure it's flat.
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Something every auto shop should have. M&R's bladeshaper SC is very good.
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I made one years ago for next to nothing. Still works great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs)
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I made one years ago for next to nothing. Still works great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs)
LIKE THIS A LOT!
Nice to talk to you today.
Thanks!
Stan
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I made one years ago for next to nothing. Still works great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs)
I've been thinking about something like that for a few years, but haven't ever taken the time to do it. What did you use for the channel the squeegee travels in?
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You too Stan!
Here's the bit I used. I can't seem to locate where I got it, but I remember it was only about $8-9.
Router is from Harbor Freight. Stock aluminum channel from Ace Hardware.
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I made one years ago for next to nothing. Still works great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VenDec_BIUs)
LIKE THIS A LOT!
Nice to talk to you today.
Thanks!
Stan
Yeah, I'd love a squeegee sharpener, but dam, over a few thousand bucks for something so simple seems crazy. How much would you charge me to make one of these homie?
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Here's some close up photos. The only real trick is getting the height correct and finding the grinding wheel.
Harbor Freight Cut Out tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-cutout-tool-42831.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-cutout-tool-42831.html)
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing. This just went to the top of my winter project lists
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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I did a job recently on my Gauntlet where the white ink simply WOULD NOT CLEAR the screen to my satisfaction. Boards were 120-ish, Ink seemed happy enough...but no amount of jacking with the angle, pressure, speed could satisfy me. The customer didn't know, all is well in that area, but I KNOW....
I suspect the squeegee I picked was most of the problem.
Anyways, I know I need a sharpener.
So Scott's simple solution gets the nod for me.
I imagine spending a grand or three would yield a better blade...or faster..., but how much better is a fair question.
Thanks Scott!!
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THANKS! Similar to what I was thinking, but less complicated. (And less complicated means it's more likely to be built!)
As far as squeegee sharpening in general goes, it's always seemed strange to me that you either glue some sandpaper to a piece of wood (so obnoxious to use it's hard to keep up the habit), or you pay over a grand for something not that far off from what Scott put together. (There are hot cutters, too, but they're at least as expensive.) One would think an effective solution could be had for $100-$300, and someone could still be making a reasonable profit.
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THANKS! Similar to what I was thinking, but less complicated. (And less complicated means it's more likely to be built!)
As far as squeegee sharpening in general goes, it's always seemed strange to me that you either glue some sandpaper to a piece of wood (so obnoxious to use it's hard to keep up the habit), or you pay over a grand for something not that far off from what Scott put together. (There are hot cutters, too, but they're at least as expensive.) One would think an effective solution could be had for $100-$300, and someone could still be making a reasonable profit.
Some of it is the limited market. Some people never sharpen and just replace them. I've always though a mobile sharpener from a supplier that delivers would be smart.
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THANKS! Similar to what I was thinking, but less complicated. (And less complicated means it's more likely to be built!)
As far as squeegee sharpening in general goes, it's always seemed strange to me that you either glue some sandpaper to a piece of wood (so obnoxious to use it's hard to keep up the habit), or you pay over a grand for something not that far off from what Scott put together. (There are hot cutters, too, but they're at least as expensive.) One would think an effective solution could be had for $100-$300, and someone could still be making a reasonable profit.
Some of it is the limited market. Some people never sharpen and just replace them. I've always though a mobile sharpener from a supplier that delivers would be smart.
I offer this service for my local supplier. I have a diamond bit sharpener I picked up for 500.00 a few years back. I charge them, they charge the customer. From what they tell me, nobody sharpens their blades only because they don't know you have to. We hit our blades once a month. even brand new blades can need sharpening
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(http://www.spsi.biz/fimorencore/encore_diamond_kut_large.jpg)
I impulse bought one of these used at a screaming deal, didn't really need it, but with a 6" diamond grit wheel, vacuum dust collection, controllable feed speed and indexes up .005" every pass on it's own, you just clamp the squeegee in it, chose the number of passes, turn it on and walk away, it sharpens and then turns itself and the vacuum off when the desired number of passes is reached.
We haven't have a dull squeegee in years.
One of the added benefits is it's not just sharp, it's perfectly flat and straight too, something that is almost impossible to get even putting brand new squeegee into a holder.
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Does anyone know of any good hot knife options? I was never impressed with the diamond wheels as I felt like some blades would take forever to properly sharpen. The knife seems like it would give you the best edge but I've never tested
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dave from spreading ink has one the knifr cutters, i cut 1 blade with it and was wicked impressed with how clean it was. it did take a strip off, so can really only sharpen a blade few times before its to short.
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing. This just went to the top of my winter project lists
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Same here, just have to email all the suppliers first who I`ve asked for quotes that I won`t be going for their $1000 squeegee sharpeners.
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I'm having a hard time sourcing the 1" diamond abrasive sleeve. I found some at Inland Hobbies to fit on a spindle shaping table that should work. And I found a sleeve at a glaziers supply house. But the glass grinding version has a pretty poor (in my opinion) mounting option, that doesn't allow for tightening.
Still looking.
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It appears the company that I bought mine from no longer sells them. Bummer. Found these:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200320241_200320241?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power%20Tools%20%3E%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Accessories&utm_campaign=Drill%20Doctor&utm_content=1560923&gclid=CNG07qHw89ACFQWpaQodXigPwg (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200320241_200320241?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power%20Tools%20%3E%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Accessories&utm_campaign=Drill%20Doctor&utm_content=1560923&gclid=CNG07qHw89ACFQWpaQodXigPwg)
http://www.drilldoctor.com/da31325gf.html (http://www.drilldoctor.com/da31325gf.html)
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That reminds me of a post I saw on Facebook the other day where a guy was showing that he had replaced all of his squeegee blades for the year and he had a picture of them up against the wall. Every other one was pitched at an angle. I thought how odd is that for new blades. Pitched at different angles nothing flat.
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I actually OWN a Drill Doctor and have for years and years. I'm on my 2nd one, actually and I already have an extra diamond sleeve.
A little cleverness and I might come up with a mandrel with a 1/4" shank.
This link http://www.inlandhobby.com/category_s/2.htm (http://www.inlandhobby.com/category_s/2.htm) shows what I had come up with yesterday. It would require only a piece of a 1/4" shafting, I think.
http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=12533&GroupID=12721&History=39324:12768:12772&ModelID=12721 (http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=12533&GroupID=12721&History=39324:12768:12772&ModelID=12721) sells the Glazier's Diamond Band, but their ONLY mandrel doesn't allow for tightening.
Here is their dopey mandrel: http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12536&GroupID=12721&History=39324:12768:12772&ModelID=12721 (http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=12536&GroupID=12721&History=39324:12768:12772&ModelID=12721) It is probably fine for its intended purpose however. (Intermittent drill motor usage.)
I think I'll skip theirs ALL together. I called them yesterday (CR Laurence Company) about it and got passed from one "Know Nothing" Rep to another.
Such a simple question: "Does the Mandrel Tighten?" It took about 20 minutes on hold to find out, during which time I busted a screen holding my phone to my ear while moving screens from the darkroom. My best headset, purchased expressly for that purpose is on the fritz, you see.
Grrrrrrr......
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serilor - fimor and M&R all have the same looking and operating sharpener that use the diamond wheels.
the trick to using any diamond wheel sharpening is to use 3 wheels. couple passes with a 60 wheel to get down to fresh material quick. then the 80 or 110 wheel for a smooth cut then finsih with the polish of the 230 wheel.
once you have a good edge, a few passes with the 230 weekly will keep it fresh.
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Does anyone know of any good hot knife options? I was never impressed with the diamond wheels as I felt like some blades would take forever to properly sharpen. The knife seems like it would give you the best edge but I've never tested
i looked at some just recently but the price was a real turn off. Starting at US$9000.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2-I2ENzezQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2-I2ENzezQ)
http://printersedge.com/hot-knife-sharpener/cat_4.html (http://printersedge.com/hot-knife-sharpener/cat_4.html)
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It appears the company that I bought mine from no longer sells them. Bummer. Found these:
[url]http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200320241_200320241?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power%20Tools%20%3E%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Accessories&utm_campaign=Drill%20Doctor&utm_content=1560923&gclid=CNG07qHw89ACFQWpaQodXigPwg[/url] ([url]http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200320241_200320241?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power%20Tools%20%3E%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Accessories&utm_campaign=Drill%20Doctor&utm_content=1560923&gclid=CNG07qHw89ACFQWpaQodXigPwg[/url])
[url]http://www.drilldoctor.com/da31325gf.html[/url] ([url]http://www.drilldoctor.com/da31325gf.html[/url])
What grit are you using?
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I am in the "just replace the blade" opinion
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I like the older American belt sander type. By the way we are looking for one in the east coast area. Thanks