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screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: Shanarchy on April 25, 2017, 03:23:16 PM
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Anyone ever try both? I understand they are very close. I'm going to be switching to one of the two and would love to hear if anyone noticeable differences.
Thanks!
Shane
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We tried Cryocoat and didn't have great results. Also, it's freaking not easy to coat that stuff.
We are running Murakami t9 and love it so far. Ran a discharge base job on 700 pcs with no breakdown.
We also tried a new Xenon Emulsion. So far that one is great too.
So many good emulsions out there right now.
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Yes they are almost identical emulsions, mainly just the color and viscosity are slightly different. In my shop we can make both of them work great. Right now we run cryocoat with the addition of diazo(better resolution, more latitude, and it reclaims better)...... We run less diazo then what you normally would however. We made a viscosity change to the cryocoat as you can achieve a better EOM with a single pass then you can with PHU. I need an emulsion in my shop that we can coat 1/1 and run on waterbase, d charge, and plastisol without worry and thats what cryo does for us here. Its really just a matter of dialing the emulsion in with your setup as we can make almost any emulsion perform well here. Murakami, Saati, Kiwo, and chromaline all make killer emulsions. Get one, stick with it and play with levels of diazo, water, temp, etc..... But right now we are using cryocoat with no issues, we are going through a gallon a day or so here of it without issues.
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we've never run cryocoat, but we run the PHU2 here. We don't go through it as quickly as danny, but we typically do about a 5 gallon every 3 weeks.
We coat all of our screens 157 and up 1/1. anything below is 2/2. it's been really easy to expose and reclaim. But we might start using diazo in the PHU2, on screens 280 and higher.
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We use strictly cryocoat here. I coat every mesh count 1/1 sharp edge with an approx 6 second stroke top to bottom. You have to use fairly firm pressure without modification.
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we run cryocoat with the addition of diazo(better resolution, more latitude, and it reclaims better)...... We run less diazo then what you normally would however.
I was actually just recommended the same thing by someone deep on the inside there...
We've been using Cryocoat for the past year and it's been really great for us, aside from a few instances of discharge screens breaking down on some longer runs (even with a post expose) ...but I'm hoping that the Diazo method will help with that.
@Danny, do you still post expose your DC and WB screens? if so how long?
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we run cryocoat with the addition of diazo(better resolution, more latitude, and it reclaims better)...... We run less diazo then what you normally would however.
I was actually just recommended the same thing by someone deep on the inside there...
We've been using Cryocoat for the past year and it's been really great for us, aside from a few instances of discharge screens breaking down on some longer runs (even with a post expose) ...but I'm hoping that the Diazo method will help with that.
@Danny, do you still post expose your DC and WB screens? if so how long?
What are you using for an exposure unit?
At how many pieces are you getting the breakdown coming in at?
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LED we have the FX Exposure
Honestly, the breakdowns haven't been consistent and only a handful of times, so there may be other variables I'm overlooking. But when it has, it was 100+ pieces, discharge, on 225s
But then we've also been fine printing 300+ discharge without breakdowns... so not exactly sure what's going on.
We also post expose DC and WB screens for 2 min
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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How are you coating?
Hand or machine?
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we run cryocoat with the addition of diazo(better resolution, more latitude, and it reclaims better)...... We run less diazo then what you normally would however.
I was actually just recommended the same thing by someone deep on the inside there...
We've been using Cryocoat for the past year and it's been really great for us, aside from a few instances of discharge screens breaking down on some longer runs (even with a post expose) ...but I'm hoping that the Diazo method will help with that.
@Danny, do you still post expose your DC and WB screens? if so how long?
No, we are not post exposing now. Only the initial bake and if we have a long run waterbase job we harden, for all other inks we just tape and go. Diazo in cryocoat/phu is awesome
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How are you coating?
Hand or machine?
Hand coating 2/1
I think our biggest variable is the climate in our screen room. Although we keep our coated screens sectioned off, with a small space heater... The humidity and temperature can still swing quite a bit, especially this time of year.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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we run cryocoat with the addition of diazo(better resolution, more latitude, and it reclaims better)...... We run less diazo then what you normally would however.
I was actually just recommended the same thing by someone deep on the inside there...
We've been using Cryocoat for the past year and it's been really great for us, aside from a few instances of discharge screens breaking down on some longer runs (even with a post expose) ...but I'm hoping that the Diazo method will help with that.
@Danny, do you still post expose your DC and WB screens? if so how long?
No, we are not post exposing now. Only the initial bake and if we have a long run waterbase job we harden, for all other inks we just tape and go. Diazo in cryocoat/phu is awesome
That's awesome! We'll be giving that a try for sure. Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
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How are you coating?
Hand or machine?
Hand coating 2/1
I think our biggest variable is the climate in our screen room. Although we keep our coated screens sectioned off, with a small space heater... The humidity and temperature can still swing quite a bit, especially this time of year.
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
get your humidity controlled STAT. we found that was the missing key to consistency in screen output. "lower than 40%" is the goal. In super dry places you can go TOO low (emulsion loses too much water and cracks) but if you are fighting too HIGH humidity, it's pretty much never going to happen.
this is one of the VERY FEW cheap hygrometers that functions (esp below 40%). We bought a $200+ is9000 very accurate german analog hygrometer to test our cheap options and this one is within 2% at all times of the hyper expensive one:
http://www.bovedainc.com/store/tobacco/hygrometers/ (http://www.bovedainc.com/store/tobacco/hygrometers/)
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Don't want to highjack, but what benefits do you get from adding diazo to photopolymer emulsion? Is it still a fast exposure?
I just finished a gallon of Cryocoat. I didn't mind it, but I'm using Saati at the moment because it was local. Seems to reclaim a bit easier also.
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Don't want to highjack, but what benefits do you get from adding diazo to photopolymer emulsion? Is it still a fast exposure?
I just finished a gallon of Cryocoat. I didn't mind it, but I'm using Saati at the moment because it was local. Seems to reclaim a bit easier also.
Which Saati emulsion?
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Don't want to highjack, but what benefits do you get from adding diazo to photopolymer emulsion? Is it still a fast exposure?
I just finished a gallon of Cryocoat. I didn't mind it, but I'm using Saati at the moment because it was local. Seems to reclaim a bit easier also.
Which Saati emulsion?
Textile PV. Main reason I don't love it is because it seems to retain moisture more then other brands. Water proof films are this emulsions enemy. I started using baby powder on my films and the screens, which has helped, but now I have baby powder dust everywhere lol.
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I am using PHU but prefer the cryocoat, i feel it reclaims MUCH easier. But I didnt feel comfortable buying it during the winter, and our local Saati rep matched our pricing for PHu to the cryocoat. PHU is defintely thicker so we thin it with 5oz of water per gallon. Coats much easier and easier to reclaim as well.
I post expose and have printed over 1500 DC prints with just a two minute post expose on the LED and nothing else. Danny how much Diazo is your shop adding per gallon? I wouldnt mind getting away from post exposing if possible. Now that it is warmer I will be switching back to cryocoat.