TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: head north on November 14, 2011, 10:53:14 AM
-
Hey all -
I'm sure this will vary slightly with location but is there anything that needs to be done to dispose of extra plascharge/plasticharge properly? Obviously it would be best to only mix the amount needed (both for cost and disposal) but in the event there is extra, what should be done with it?
-
Perhaps someone from Union and/or Wilflex could help on this one.
-
They might not due to liability issues. It will vary depending on County and waste treatment chemistry. At one company we brought in a waste watre treatment specialist who redommended a three part filtration system. We had the water tested and passed. I know of others who let it sit until most of the odor is gone and dumpster it. Or you can have a waste disposal company handle it.
-
With regular plastisol, in general, it is no problem when cured, so ink spread on cardboard sent through the dryer often does the trick.
When the extra discharge stuff is added to this, I don't know if the equation changes or not.
-
From the little plasticharge I have used the excess simply drys up all crusty like. The general rule of thumb is if its dry you can toss it in the trash.
-
Something I've done to get rid of volumes of plastisol is to take a cheap-azz aluminum sheet for catching grease in an oven or for using as a one-time cookie sheet (they're available in the grocery store by the rolls of foil), affixing some wire at two corners that you can secure to your dryer, slop the ink on, and let the sheet ride into the dryer as far as the wire will let it and leave it in there a few of minutes. Pull it back out, let it cool, and peel off the ink and discard. Load 'er up again. You can leave it in the dryer as long as you want and it won't burn and will cure a fairly thick ink layer.
-
holy cow that is both genius and totally redneck. I LOVE it.
I have often thought about getting a large toaster oven and putting ink in that to cure it. I've even used a metal cart with a cookie sheet on it and a flash unit hovering a couple inches overhead....that works great as well.
-
If I'm not mistaken, Andy used to use an old microwave to get rid of unwanted plastisol.
-
I had the perfect toaster oven too, and I tossed it. It was an old black and decker that I swear was from 1982. It was HUGE. You could have easily done a large chicken or small turkey in this thing.
It's probably best that I tossed it because I am sure the use over the years was tough on the wires and the insulation..who knows if it was safe to use.
-
Something I've done to get rid of volumes of plastisol is to take a cheap-azz aluminum sheet for catching grease in an oven or for using as a one-time cookie sheet (they're available in the grocery store by the rolls of foil), affixing some wire at two corners that you can secure to your dryer, slop the ink on, and let the sheet ride into the dryer as far as the wire will let it and leave it in there a few of minutes. Pull it back out, let it cool, and peel off the ink and discard. Load 'er up again. You can leave it in the dryer as long as you want and it won't burn and will cure a fairly thick ink layer.
how much is a fairly thick ink layer? 1/4" or 2"
-
If I'm not mistaken, Andy used to use an old microwave to get rid of unwanted plastisol.
Yeah, but that was only after getting busted using the one in the kitchen, lol!
But seriously folks, I was always disappointed in the small volumes I could do at a time., because, thinner is better.
And we are still not addressing the issue of whether the additives in this particular ink puts the kibosh on the deal.
-
From the little plasticharge I have used the excess simply drys up all crusty like. The general rule of thumb is if its dry you can toss it in the trash.
Let me fix that for you..
any CURED ink is safe for the dumpster, anything else is not.
That cookie sheet method is about the smartest idea I've ever heard to cure old ink!!
Load it up before lunch or break and let it sit then peel.. fuc!ing genius!!
I've got two of them that need to be replaced.. honeyyy!! we need new cookie sheets!
-
how much is a fairly thick ink layer? 1/4" or 2"
I'd say what I've done is about 1/4" thick. Next time I do it I've got about a pint of some old Wilflex Bright Tiger that's shot. I'll plop that on the tin and see if it cures all the way through. Leave it in there long enough with the dryer on full hot and it should cure. Breaking it open would prove it or not.
-
I've been curious to what others do about screen tape? Do you all just toss in the garbage or have a disposal service pickup?
-
I've been curious to what others do about screen tape? Do you all just toss in the garbage or have a disposal service pickup?
I leave it on and apply ink remover in the sink first. Rinse and peel then reclaim.
-
Disposing of small quantities of plastisol through the shirt oven works great. I made a nice door mat by repeatedly smearing ink on a t shirt until it was about 3/4 of an inch thick. But it is not an efficient way to solidify a large quantity of ink.
I picked up some old ink stock. Some of it was highly suspect and I didn't know what kind of solvents or additives may have been used (like mineral spirits, because the original owner was old school). I would not use my household oven. Instead I picked up a couple of metal gallon paint cans. The ink that was in plastic buckets went into the cans. I used a folding Coleman camping oven on top of a camp stove. Placed it outside and let it cook. Fumes were dispersed rather than concentrating indoors. Worked great to solidify larger quantities of plastisol. Definitely cheaper than purchasing a heater wrap. If you have larger amounts of ink to dispose the camp oven is a good option.
-
Ray-Paul hatched a scheme to actually make doormats out of unwanted plastisol. They poured it in a mold and slow cured in one of their ovens.
-
That isn't a bad idea.
-
I hear that fishing lures are made of plastisol. I'm going to be looking into this shortly.
-
I mix all of my random color matches together and make brown or sometimes a weird military green color that I use for my band's shirts. Someone mentioned before to add black dye and turn it black?
-
The more pigments in a particular color, the uglier the color, IMO.
Shop black is never quite black.
-
A lot of times I will mix the trash black with a real black 50/50. That takes out any funky color. Just don't try to blow too much of the black out of the shirt...the pigments tend to really show up.
-
You can take an EQualizer which is a balanced colorant and add that to a shop black or mix of your colors. However, know that it will not be a true black and you don't want to go more then 50/50 with the addition.
Oh and fishing lures are made out of plastisol.
Erin
-
This statement needs more clarification.
What sort of lures are we talking about? Rubber worms? I don't know of a plastisol that it strong enough to hold up with a hard bodied lure.
-
It isn't the same exact formulation that is used for garment decorating, but it is a plastisol formulation. Yes, it is worms and wiggly things, etc.
-
Hi Erin!
This is the coolest thing I've heard in awhile. Is there anything I can add
to my plastisol to be able to pour lures? Commercial rubber worms are much
softer and jigglier than what I know plastisol to cure like. Curable reducer?
-
Dude, rubber worms are cheap as hell. Why would you want to pour your own?
If you can't find what you want on Bass Pro or Cabela's, you don't need to own it.
-
Novelty, custom colors, usage of otherwise waste plastisol, finding
a home use for the stuff I play with at work, etc.
Also something to do during the winter when I'm not fishing.
-
Hi Erin!
This is the coolest thing I've heard in awhile. Is there anything I can add
to my plastisol to be able to pour lures? Commercial rubber worms are much
softer and jigglier than what I know plastisol to cure like. Curable reducer?
How about an extra hit or two of pthalates? That's where the suppleness comes from.
-
So much for my Epic series of rubber worms.
Back to the drawing board.
-
And I was really looking for you to become an expert in this and earn the rank of Master Baiter! ::)
-
My stars that joke finally has a legitimate situation!
-
And I was really looking for you to become an expert in this and earn the rank of Master Baiter! ::)
Once had a scout master with the last name Bates.
-
Wow, I had no idea this topic would cause such a reaction!
I honestly have no idea what the difference is, just know there is one and that they use some of our products... =/ Sorry to cause excitment and then to let you down...
Erin
-
Plastisol, in another form, is also the material that is often used on the handles of our pliers and wrenches.
-
Sadly, I doubt it will be on t-shirts in a decade. :-[
-
I remember when my pops brought home a can of that tool handle stuff. Demonstrated it for
us, and I got into it a couple days later. Pops was not impressed with my handywork.
Some kind of catalyst or something? I always thought that plastisol was plastisol?
As for it not being on shirts, no love lost here honestly. Waterbased is where it's at.
Except for fleece. And blends. And athletic wear. And royal blue, most purples, kelly green, some
reds, etc.
-
Ha, sorry, I don't think waterbase is "where it's at" there are too many limitations.
I guess I should have said, plastisol as we know it. Once most everything gets banned, it will be hard to continue to manufacture it. And the newer inks will have totally different printability.
It would be smarter if they only allowed X amount of certain chems by measurement.