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Artist => General Art Discussions => Topic started by: Nation03 on July 17, 2017, 07:09:20 AM
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This logo needs to go on the left chest. I've always had issues doing halftones on smaller logos. Is there a trick or certain formula I should use for halftone size when the logo is smaller? Shirt color will probably be a tealish blue.
Color wise I was thinking: UB, Gold and black but I'm not 100% how to go about it in terms of mesh type and halftone dot size.
How would some of you handle this type of left chest?
Thanks!
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My bigger issue is matching UPS gold, this order cries out for a pre-production sample with an iron clad sign-off, the teal blue shirt will screw with the perceived color of the gold.
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Great point about the sign off as they have fairly stringent requirements with that ups gold. As far as the other question I would output the black 55 lpi and run a 305 mesh screen with a sharp 70/90/70. This is a rare instance where I would leave the base under the black since the coverage is light and you don't want to muddy it up with squeegee pressure . Again, rarely would I ever recommend under basing black but I think this print will look the best that way. you may need a highlight white also on teal but the coverage is minimal so I would output one incase you need it,
PRINT ORDER
base- 160
flash
gold-230
flash
black-305
highlite if needed use a 200
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Agreed. I wasn't going to proceed without approval of a printed sample. Usually I don't like doing samples but with something like this I'd be more comfortable doing so. I just heard back from the client, they aren't proceeding with it at this time so it looks like I won't have to spin my wheels with it right now. Thanks for the help anyway!
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Greg is spot on about shirt color.
However, I would go up higher in mesh count.... at least 60 lpi (maybe 65) and put it on an even higher mesh count like a 330 or 350. 70/90/70 or harder. Make sure that squeegee is sharp enough to shave with as well.
There is so much detail in there its crazy for a left chest.
Hmm.... I would honestly do several different strikes with different mesh count/lpi combos till you find one you are happy with.
Ah, you updated. I might still take a stab at it if I were you. Use some downtime and improve your skill set :)
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Or digital transfers. We has a job for a customer that has an insane amount of detail in a logo they wanted on the nape of the neck. So we ended up printing the large areas and put small inline where the transfer goes so that we could put it in the same spot on every shirt relative to the text. Worked great, customer was thrilled and it actually saved us 4 screens.
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IMO, that is insane detail for a halftone crest print once I enlarged it and saw the men walking in front of the building.
I'd probably go with MK's suggestion for digital transfers