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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: garneauk on August 18, 2018, 08:58:47 PM
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I have problems overprinting a cardinal red, they come out magenta. I have tried different cardinal from few company, all do the same thing. white is rutland sf2. dry to the touch after the flash no problem. print perfect on a light shirt. help please !!!
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Got a pic?
What mesh?
Shirts 50/50 or cotton?
Is the effect immediate or delayed?
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Good questions Frog.
I was thinking either too high of a mesh on top color (would be more pastelish Pink/white I'd think, or the base is not a Poly white and bleeding, causing the pink.
NOt sure till we know some answers to those questions.
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be sure your overprinting with a opaque red. mesh should be 230.
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Good questions Frog.
I was thinking either too high of a mesh on top color (would be more pastelish Pink/white I'd think, or the base is not a Poly white and bleeding, causing the pink.
NOt sure till we know some answers to those questions.
I believe Street Fighter is a poly white so he should be good there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Good questions Frog.
I was thinking either too high of a mesh on top color (would be more pastelish Pink/white I'd think, or the base is not a Poly white and bleeding, causing the pink.
NOt sure till we know some answers to those questions.
I believe Street Fighter is a poly white so he should be good there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SF2 is a typical Low Bleed white, not poly specific
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Good questions Frog.
I was thinking either too high of a mesh on top color (would be more pastelish Pink/white I'd think, or the base is not a Poly white and bleeding, causing the pink.
NOt sure till we know some answers to those questions.
I believe Street Fighter is a poly white so he should be good there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SF2 is a typical Low Bleed white, not poly specific
Don’t mind me, just over here spreading false information. Thought it was a poly white for some reason.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well, we still don't know what type of fabric (and hence dye) the OP was dealing with. Even with the improved low bleed whites that evolved, I developed gun shyness on 50/50 reds and their cousins due to the dreaded delayed-reaction pinking effect I once experienced on a big order for the March of Dimes.
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I’m not sure that any of the Rutland/Union low bleeds are for poly. I recently looked for one and everything I looked at was for 50/50 or cotton. For poly they recommend the Grey barrier base.
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I’m not sure that any of the Rutland/Union low bleeds are for poly. I recently looked for one and everything I looked at was for 50/50 or cotton. For poly they recommend the Grey barrier base.
We are straying from the original thread a bit, but with the amalgamation of all of the brands now under Poly One's wing, I can't say for sure what, if any products are being dropped, but Union offered 1070 Premium White, or their 1500 Barrier Gray.
Rutland has EL9746 Super Poly White and their Barrier Gray EL0266.
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Whenever I see "a cardinal red, they come out magenta" using White ink, I think of dye bleed.
Maybe he'll come back with more information.
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underbase is 110, red and grey are 230, 100% cotton shirt, effect is immediate
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Ran into a similar problem here a few years ago. Custy changed the tried and true ash grey tees to navy. The red we had used for them when under printed with white looked very light...much like you show. So, we used a grey under print instead of white and were able to achieve the color they expected.
Also, we used 230 for the base and a 230S for the top.
Best of luck.
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underbase is 110, red and grey are 230, 100% cotton shirt, effect is immediate
Boils down to too much base for too translucent of a top ink layer.
110's are rarely used nowadays
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Boils down to too much base for too translucent of a top ink layer.
110's are rarely used nowadays
They do have some uses. I think Jason said he uses them to hold the door open for air movement in the summertime.
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underbase is 110, red and grey are 230, 100% cotton shirt, effect is immediate
your red ink is probably both translucent and the deposit is too thin.
start with high opacity ink and then use a thicker stencil. Beware, hi opacity inks do not print well wet on wet and you should probably flash after printing it.
We always print the red right before the flash (and with thicker mesh) to keep it as bright as possible.
pierre
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we always had this issue using wilflex standard epic colors. red and royal always presented an issue for us with the inks changing color a bit. when we started using their Rio system, the inks are a more opaque. now if someone asks for a standard red over an underbase, we use the Rio red directly out of the bucket, no mix. it covers great and has no issues going through higher meshes.
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Yup, try an HO red printed last and you should be good. Cardinals are the worst around here. Those and blues. For overprinting we switched over to either Smart Series or the Comfort FF Series.
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Not idea and production friendly, but you can flash the red and reprint, I've had to do this a time or two, can't remember what blend shirt it was that I had this problem on.