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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Logoman on December 08, 2011, 08:36:39 AM
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I am printing Red Polyester Augusta Jerseys. Used Union Poly White Ink, Burned 85 Mesh Screen, set Dryer at 300 and the Dye still bled through the Ink. What The .......?
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crap. Did you p/f/p them?
I talked to sonny today and they are coming out with a low cure ink. it might help with things like this.
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Sonny once told me to send them down the dryer before printing to set the dye. I haven't done this, has anybody else?
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crap. Did you p/f/p them?
I talked to sonny today and they are coming out with a low cure ink. it might help with things like this.
Hopefully they are going to test it before they put it up for sale.
Sonny is a good dude, but Xenon as a company.........
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Sonny once told me to send them down the dryer before printing to set the dye. I haven't done this, has anybody else?
By my understanding, an old wive's tale. Common story, but considered voodoo science by the techs I have actually spoken with. Last I spoke with on the subject said that it excites the molecules and can actually exacerbate the situation.
We need the Mythbusters but no cannons please!
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Lst thing I would do is heat the poly up any more than you need to. Get it printed and through the oven at the lowest heat possible and dwell time as well. Thats where low cure inks are needed.
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well i am not informed on union inks but all i use is one stroke ink and my color max white has never had any issues on poly and we do nothing but sport clothing.
and we just load print and down the dryer nothing special at all.
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I would bet that this can be laid on one of two things; too much heat, or poor dyeing (something cropping up more and more)
It would be a good idea to test some of these same spoiled garments with an accurate donut probe, and perhaps with other inks.
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I have a friend that used to own a shop almost next door to Augusta. They would run stuff over all the time for him to test and he said they had a lot of problems with migration.
I jsut ran some forest jerseys from a local manufacturer and the ink turned a tinge yellow. 100% wilflex poly white. Not much I can do about that.
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I have a friend that used to own a shop almost next door to Augusta. They would run stuff over all the time for him to test and he said they had a lot of problems with migration.
I jsut ran some forest jerseys from a local manufacturer and the ink turned a tinge yellow. 100% wilflex poly white. Not much I can do about that.
Brownlee? He lied to ya, he was all the way across town. I am WAY closer.... ;D
I used to work there in the mid 90s when they had an actual printing dept. I can tell you that the fabrics they use are BEYOND crap when it come to bleeding. The 50/50 is worse than most other manu's 100% poly.
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haha, that's funny, the other complaint he has was they wouldn't pay him.
He's at wilflex now. I almost bought a house in his neighborhood(I would have lived there first). What turned me off is you have to pull a u-turn instead of a left turn. I just couldn't do it every day.
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Brownlee is with Wilflex now and we are very greatful for him! :)
If you are looking for a low bleed white that is a low cure wilflex offers Epic PErformance White. IT cures at 290F. That helps with sublimation that can happen in the dryer.
In regard to sending the garment through the dryer first = myth!!! :)
Erin
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In regard to sending the garment through the dryer first = myth!!! :)
Erin
And you've heard it forever as well, right?
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Are you using an electric dryer?
We ran some black polys, ST350 i think, this summer and had sublimation issues with the shirt temp staying about 325. The bright white ink (Wilflex Poly White) turned blue but just on the Port shirts, we ran some Badgers in the same job and they looked like champs. We've got some Eipc white and are going to try a lower temp and as TP suggested a faster belt speed.
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For lower temps, make sure it is the Epic Performance White - Epic PolyWhite is still 320 F.
Heard it a ton, but it just doesn't work. We are seeing more and more bleed issues with less and less regulations on dye houses and more and more dye houses moving off shore.
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Yeah, a company I worked for here ended up doing some of that after he had his shop. They thought everything was a favor. Annoying.
I have crashed with Brom (call him that next time ;D) on a few weekend trips to ATL, and that neighborhood confuses the hell outta me. Too many divided roadways.
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Brownlee is with Wilflex now and we are very greatful for him! :)
Brownlee is the one who got me my first job in screenprinting, back in 91...sometimes I wonder whether to thank him or blame him... ;D
Hes a great guy, and he tells me often how much he likes it at Wilflex with all the "kickass equipment". Or maybe he just wants to make me jealous. It works, too!
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I would bet that this can be laid on one of two things; too much heat, or poor dyeing (something cropping up more and more)
It would be a good idea to test some of these same spoiled garments with an accurate donut probe, and perhaps with other inks.
I've heard this also, but we print a ton of poly and my boss is really strict with me running everything through the dryer first. I haven't noticed the difference... if the fabric is a bad bleeder, then you're going to have some issues no matter what. We use the one stroke max also and if you p/f/p then you will rarely get any bleeding... it is a solid bleed resistant white. I think the best thing you can do is get the garments to cool down as fast as possible after they went through the dryer. That should freeze the excited dye molecules and keep them from rising into the ink. So if you have the space set up a bunch of tables with fans, and lay the shirts out, don't stack right away.
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What about an Electric Dryer vs. Gas. Any difference there on the migration issue?
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i haven't noticed one, but I didn't run a ton of 100% poly with the electric and we run a good bit now. I have noticed less with fleece though. But that could be inks as well.