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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Logoman on November 14, 2018, 10:54:01 AM
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Does anyone have a chart or something to show New Printers where to print the crest or Back, ect. ?
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Here's a slightly updated version of the chart I have shared for many years.
Interestingly, this method of positioning the pocket (or crest) was within a fraction of an inch when compared to one of those that used the collar and shoulder seams as the references.
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Ive had this exact one taped to my wall for about 10 years...LOL
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Ive had this exact one taped to my wall for about 10 years...LOL
Me too! LOL!
Except, not this exact one, as I have made a few changes (though none to actual measurements). Just a title, and the addition of a few words for clarification.
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Here's a slightly updated version of the chart I have shared for many years.
Interestingly, this method of positioning the pocket (or crest) was within a fraction of an inch when compared to one of those that used the collar and shoulder seams as the references.
Is that 4" from the center to the left edge of the image, or the center of the image? We use the center here.
Steve
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Here's a slightly updated version of the chart I have shared for many years.
Interestingly, this method of positioning the pocket (or crest) was within a fraction of an inch when compared to one of those that used the collar and shoulder seams as the references.
Is that 4" from the center to the left edge of the image, or the center of the image? We use the center here.
Steve
C'mon Steve, I even made the word "center" bold!
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I struggle with this all the time. What i have reduced this to is to print the left chest image on paper stick it to my tee shirt and jump in front of a mirror. Move it up down left right about 100 times till I think it looks OK??????????
I wear a large tee so that size is my basis. When I think it looks OK :P I measure it off set from center and down from my collar reference.
So lets say for any given graphic I get a measurement of 3 1/2 off center and 4 inches down to some point of reference on the design.
From there i typically make size corrections as follows
On a medium I use 3 1/4 off x 3 1/2 down
for Xlarge 3 3/4 off and 4 to 4 1/4 down
2xl 4 off X 4 1/2 down
3xl 4 1/4 off x 4 1/2 to 5 down.
Basically for the most part add 1/4 going up in size and subtract 1/4 inch going down in size from my base measurement on my large tee shirt.
At the end of it all I have no clue if this is correct or not but I have not received any complaints form any customers.
it also allows me to judge how different size left chest logos look on my shirt.
For example I would locate a logo that is @ 3.75 wide 2 inches high differently than if it were 3.75 x 3.75 inches.
That is no qualification or standard however as i see left chest logos all over the place , high , low under the arm pit to mention a few I can't be too far from the world. With my method I generally end up somewhere in the ball park but it is a big park.
mooseman
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I've had one very similar to Andy's hanging on my wall, but gives me a little more in print size 'range' selection.
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What do you do when you have pocket prints on adult unisex t shirts and also on women’s shirts and large children’s sizes?
The position on the adult t shirts is correct but the others are a bit to the left when worn.
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I don't do a lot of pocket prints, but I tend to follow the "Horizontal Placement" which says 3.5 inches from the center of the shirt to the center of the design.
I think larger people have most of the "extra" width on the outer edges so using the offset from the center line should pretty much accommodate all sizes. We all have a "middle".
However, I suppose there could be some "drift" to allow between XL and XXXXL.
Just my thoughts.
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left chest and right chest:
LEFT TO RIGHT:
line the center of the art up with the outer edge of the neckline hem (of a standard crewneck neckline).
draw a line straight down from where the neck would come out the shirt. that's your art center.
this is way easier than a measurement from center as it automatically adjusts for ALL sizes.
if the garment isn't a crew neck - simply imagine where the crewneck hem would be.
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What do you do when you have pocket prints on adult unisex t shirts and also on women’s shirts and large children’s sizes?
The position on the adult t shirts is correct but the others are a bit to the left when worn.
Ladies sizes I adjust as if 2 sizes smaller (1/2")
Youth, 1"
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line the center of the art up with the outer edge of the neckline hem (of a standard crewneck neckline).
Nice tip! I now want to try this to see how it works out.
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I liked that too and updated mine.
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Important to know size and shape of graphic as well as garment. But these are good guidelines for the basic stuff
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Important to know size and shape of graphic as well as garment. But these are good guidelines for the basic stuff
So true. In the end, it's always what looks right, not what measures right!
Also, tanks and some V-Necks dictate where something goes, charts and guidelines be damned!
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What do you do when you have pocket prints on adult unisex t shirts and also on women’s shirts and large children’s sizes?
The position on the adult t shirts is correct but the others are a bit to the left when worn.
If using a DTS output, it will land in the exact same location all the time (unless the artist were to move it manually in a template or document).
Then you would adjust (per size and garment style) on the pallet when loading. It would not be a drastic adjustment.
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Here's a slightly updated version of the chart I have shared for many years.
Interestingly, this method of positioning the pocket (or crest) was within a fraction of an inch when compared to one of those that used the collar and shoulder seams as the references.
Is that 4" from the center to the left edge of the image, or the center of the image? We use the center here.
Steve
C'mon Steve, I even made the word "center" bold!
D-oh!
Steve
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I've had one very similar to Andy's hanging on my wall, but gives me a little more in print size 'range' selection.
I've been using this one as my default and have Frog's for a backup.
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left chest and right chest:
LEFT TO RIGHT:
line the center of the art up with the outer edge of the neckline hem (of a standard crewneck neckline).
draw a line straight down from where the neck would come out the shirt. that's your art center.
this is way easier than a measurement from center as it automatically adjusts for ALL sizes.
if the garment isn't a crew neck - simply imagine where the crewneck hem would be.
This is how we do it as well for left chest prints. We move the print a little higher for smalls, and a little lower for XLs
We don't have exact measurements written down anywhere, we just look at the first couple prints and put it on the mannequin and make sure it looks correct, we have lasers on the boards to mark where the collar is (or sometimes just put the collar down 1 or 2 fingers ???? )
But I'm gonna need to make a chart like you guys have since I hope at some point soon we can hire a printer and we should really have some measurements to reference
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left chest and right chest:
LEFT TO RIGHT:
line the center of the art up with the outer edge of the neckline hem (of a standard crewneck neckline).
draw a line straight down from where the neck would come out the shirt. that's your art center.
this is way easier than a measurement from center as it automatically adjusts for ALL sizes.
if the garment isn't a crew neck - simply imagine where the crewneck hem would be.
This is how we do it as well for left chest prints. We move the print a little higher for smalls, and a little lower for XLs
We don't have exact measurements written down anywhere, we just look at the first couple prints and put it on the mannequin and make sure it looks correct, we have lasers on the boards to mark where the collar is (or sometimes just put the collar down 1 or 2 fingers ???? )
But I'm gonna need to make a chart like you guys have since I hope at some point soon we can hire a printer and we should really have some measurements to reference
With the pocket/breast/crest prints, I think that for those using lasers, the seams on conventional shirts seem like great reference targets, and as I said, when we compared this method and the actual measurements I use, found them very close.
When I do have shirts with non-standard collars, I place one over a standard shirt and note the difference, and then adjust the position target accordingly. This would work with both rulers and pencil marks, or lasers.