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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: sweetts on January 12, 2012, 10:14:35 PM
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Just purchased a used harco uc2408, I hooked it up it ran fine for 1/2 hour, sparked and thats all she wrote. I popped open the cover and the lead going to the breaker / switch in the machine was burnt. I did not meter anything out yet but it appears that its the lead going to the heat panels. the other hot lead goes to I think a rectifier it has 4 low voltage leads coming out of it and a big heat sink on it. I emailed the guy who sold it to me and his response would lead me to believe I just got burned. Anyway what is the best way to trouble shoot the heat panels and the other stuff. Also does anyone have any info on how the temp gauge/ display unit operates , looks like it can shoot out error codes and has some adjustments other then temp. Any help would be SUPER thanks. I will be grabbing a beer now and try not to think evil thoughts of the guy who sold it to me. >:(
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In general, connections on and wires going to panels are prone to failure from heat that gets increased by poor connections.
Corrosion, tarnish, loose connection all equal increased resistance which increases heat.
You may not be that bad off and can fix it with heat resistant wire. Of course, your results may vary.
If the seller didn't sound too surprised, it has probably happened a few times before.
The guys at Brown (the new Harco) may offer you some help.
I seem to remember Killer mentioning someone by name.
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If you are going to contact Brown ask for Mike Harpold personally, very nice helpful man.
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Just purchased a used harco uc2408, I hooked it up it ran fine for 1/2 hour, sparked and thats all she wrote. I popped open the cover and the lead going to the breaker / switch in the machine was burnt. I did not meter anything out yet but it appears that its the lead going to the heat panels. the other hot lead goes to I think a rectifier it has 4 low voltage leads coming out of it and a big heat sink on it. I emailed the guy who sold it to me and his response would lead me to believe I just got burned. Anyway what is the best way to trouble shoot the heat panels and the other stuff. Also does anyone have any info on how the temp gauge/ display unit operates , looks like it can shoot out error codes and has some adjustments other then temp. Any help would be SUPER thanks. I will be grabbing a beer now and try not to think evil thoughts of the guy who sold it to me. >:(
I warned you! You'll be under the hood fixing that thing every 6 weeks, both of my harco dryers and my flash is/was like that. Fix it and sell it at a profit and get yourself a blackbody , no issues at all with mine :P
My harco flash keeps melting plugs and burning off the wire at the terminals.
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You think its a heat panel short? I was thinking just what you said as it stopped working. So what was the common trouble you had? power leads frying?
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Great thanks I will have to give them a call. I figure I ll trouble shoot it a smuch as I can this week-end a=then call. Have ohm meter will travel lol. It just stinks people should be honest that's what bugs me.
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Post some pics of the burnt bits and component connections and I bet we can troubleshoot it. As long as it wasn't shaken up too much in transport it's likely a poor connection.
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Will to tonight after the day job thanks
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So here is what I have, power switch / breaker melted and one of the power lined out of it was toasted. So I jumper switch and powered it up. Belt and fans all work. No heat, the display shows HLer and CODE 150 thinking maybe a heat loop error?? any thoughts? I ohmed out the panels input to output each panel they were like 2-6 ohms, each leg to ground were 900 ohms and testing between each panel were infinity so I think the panels are ok.
I moved on to the big thing with lots of leads, after removing the shield I realized it was a relay, that seems to check good, when ohming it out as far as I can tell. I found a broken wire on the on off switch for the panels, I replaced it thinking hey I found it, turns out not the issue still not working. So I unplug the control wires from the relay and I never seem to get the control voltage. This makes me think a sensor or the control mod/ display is bad. There is one small ckt board in there but I have no way of knowing what should be coming out of it. If anyone knows what the error code means or how to cipher the display unit that would be great. I figured before I start tearing into it more I will talk to Brown and see what they say. Any thoughts??
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So here is what I have, power switch / breaker melted and one of the power lined out of it was toasted. So I jumper switch and powered it up. Belt and fans all work. No heat, the display shows HLer and CODE 150 thinking maybe a heat loop error?? any thoughts? I ohmed out the panels input to output each panel they were like 2-6 ohms, each leg to ground were 900 ohms and testing between each panel were infinity so I think the panels are ok.
I moved on to the big thing with lots of leads, after removing the shield I realized it was a relay, that seems to check good, when ohming it out as far as I can tell. I found a broken wire on the on off switch for the panels, I replaced it thinking hey I found it, turns out not the issue still not working. So I unplug the control wires from the relay and I never seem to get the control voltage. This makes me think a sensor or the control mod/ display is bad. There is one small ckt board in there but I have no way of knowing what should be coming out of it. If anyone knows what the error code means or how to cipher the display unit that would be great. I figured before I start tearing into it more I will talk to Brown and see what they say. Any thoughts??
one word, PICTURES!!! Thing with lotsa wires is not precise enough. At least not for me . . .
pierre
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Here are the pictures, the switch was toasted, I dont seem to be getting any voltage to the relay on the control side, nothing appears to be blown off the board so I am at a loss.
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Here are the pictures, the switch was toasted, I dont seem to be getting any voltage to the relay on the control side, nothing appears to be blown off the board so I am at a loss.
HLer is —Process value beyond the high range setpoint
Solution: —Re-adjust value
What I take that to mean is the temp controller thinks the temp is higher than the set point temp. Have you checked your sensor wires all the way back to the temperature controller for breaks or fraying? You're saying you have power to one side of the solid state relay, just no power to the low voltage control side of the relay?
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That's correct no control voltage. I have not checked the sensors or wires To them but thought that would be my next move
Sent from samsung gem(the worst smart phone ever)
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Looking at it now found broken thermocouple wire its working right now waiting to see if it comes up to temp cross fingers
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Hey Sweetts, just to let you know, that **it happens to all of us at some point.
I suddenly lost my flash dryer during a busy time yesterday, and, just like I described to you, it was a fried wire right at the panel terminal.
A relatively easy fix, but a big surprise whenever something like that happens. This is the first time on this particular dryer, about seven years old.
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Thanks for the help. I ended up replacing the fried switch with a fused disconnect, replaced the heat panel switch, replaced the burned wires and fixed the thermocouple wire. Seems to be working now. My wife thinks I should sell it for a small profit and buy a smaller new dryer with less bells and whistles but with a warranty. I think I will see how it goes. I pretty much freaked out and thought I got taken because it only ran for like 20 minutes before dying, I totally see how all my problems could be caused by the drive over here, s**t does happen for sure. Thanks for all the help you guys are a great. Now to do the sheet metal work to vent this pig.
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Cool, glad you got it up and running. When I trailered my lawson dryer I had one IR panel come out of it's frame and everything. Had to rivet it back together, along with rewiring the whole dang thing.
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Thanks for the help. I ended up replacing the fried switch with a fused disconnect, replaced the heat panel switch, replaced the burned wires and fixed the thermocouple wire. Seems to be working now. My wife thinks I should sell it for a small profit and buy a smaller new dryer with less bells and whistles but with a warranty. I think I will see how it goes. I pretty much freaked out and thought I got taken because it only ran for like 20 minutes before dying, I totally see how all my problems could be caused by the drive over here, s**t does happen for sure. Thanks for all the help you guys are a great. Now to do the sheet metal work to vent this pig.
Your wife is a smart women! RJennings and Black Body make awesome dryers, why because they are built very simple and no guess work when it comes to any issues. When a dryer looks likes the inside of a space craft with miles of wires going all over god's creation, I'd run and never look back. A dryer is nothing more than a boxed in flash dryer with a belt. Also both dryers take minutes not hours to get inside of, just a few bolts and your inside. I'm sure a few people wouldnt agree with me , but the less bells and whistles the better! I had the Harco 2408 and the 2411, both looked cool but ended up being crap asss dryers, time wasters, money pits and headaches.
BTW my Harco flash burned a wire today...ugg. Looking to get a black body 18x24 asap. I think I just might gut it out and referb it with a black body element for the fraction of the cost of a new one.
Good luck!
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Thanks I am inclined to see how long this thing will run before it dies again, if its a constant pain I will boot it.
Sent from samsung gem(the worst smart phone ever)