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Computers and Software => RIPs => Topic started by: Squeeky on August 18, 2021, 06:54:44 PM
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Sorry for a rant here
But...
All of the sudden, we started having banding issues on films, but perfect nozzle checks on the old bulk fed 1430.
So, tried to re-adjust settings in AccuRip Ruby...
But, they are not access-able because the license expired. What? Expired?
They explained the new Emerald license will not support my faithful cheap setup. But for a handsome fee, we can get another year on the Ruby for our legacy printer.
I've had it with the stick-ups from Accurip.
If anyone can point to a reasonable RIP, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Jack
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CADLink, but you'll have to check if it supports 1430. It will take a bit to learn it as it has a ton more options.
If you do get it, make sure you run the setup wizard and then take advantage of their webinar training. Don't just wing it,
pierre
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GhostRip/Ghostview....free opensource, been using it for years.
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The stuff from Tom Knight works pretty well also.
https://www.advancedtshirts.com/ (https://www.advancedtshirts.com/)
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to the best of my knowledge, neither supports controlling the amount of ink to make the films correct density. . .
pierre
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hey i ditched accurip last year after the issues they had. and switched to filmmaker v10 xl. works like a champ and has the 1430 plus hundreds more. does all black. i think has more control than acurip. they will remote in to help setup as well. customer service is great.
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I started using Cadlinks rip back when it was call Photoscript using an epson 1520 printer and here is the kicker it still works today if I had my old epson 3000 printing again 1520 bit the dust, very good software, but I joined the crowd and went with accuRip which now no longer works or supported, EOL life got me. So I decided not to use anymore of there software, Wayne aka Screenexpress hooked me up with Ghost plus I know how to do halftone using photoshop, just takes more steps than having a good software to work from, Filmmaker will be in my future when I get sick of using what I'm using now LOL
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Advanced Artists Simple Seps allows you to not only print halftones, but use multiple black cartridges. - If you're a Corel user. Then you can print to any printer you have available, no matter make /model/ year.
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to the best of my knowledge, neither supports controlling the amount of ink to make the films correct density. . .
pierre
Don't know about all brand printers, but I can control the density on my Epson 1400 (at print time) by sliding the "Brightness" bar to -25 and the "Saturation" bar to +25 for darker prints. No other adjustments needed.
I know Ghost is the red-headed stepchild for RIPS, but it is free, often updated, and has always done what I needed for halftone prints.
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Has anyone tried https://www.printfab.net/ (https://www.printfab.net/) ? It’s certainly not as full featured as the “professional” RIPS, but I think for the vast majority of users it would probably work. I have not purchased it yet, but it does have options for screen printers and it looks like it’s around $200 for the pro edition that gives you a ton of print drivers as well as ink control.
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We still are using AccuRIP Black Pearl on our T3270, which is a fairly new printer compared to a 1400 or 1430, which is probably why we haven't had the end of life issue. But maybe I should do some homework here and see what they have on the horizon...
Steve
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This is exactly why i ditched accurip - now use PrintFab XL with our 1430 no issues and cheaper.
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Came in one morning to print seps and low and behold got an error EOL, so I got on the phone with AccuRip and found out it was End of Life for the program, was offered the upgrade so I decline and move to something else. I might look at printfab
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look at cadlink rip if ever going bigger than 1430 say t3270 go XL version.
I have used version since usscreen times.
Shane
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Advanced Artists Simple Seps allows you to not only print halftones, but use multiple black cartridges. - If you're a Corel user. Then you can print to any printer you have available, no matter make /model/ year.
The negatives to using this one is that the halftone conversion process is the same as using the bitmap halftone conversion you do in Photoshop. You can’t adjust the dot of a single color bitmap file for dot gain. That’s what a good rip does (at output). It enables you to compensate by reading a print out and knowing where your dots are and you enter those values into the RIP to compensate. With a bitmap conversion, yes, you get dots in a line screen at various lpi. But you would have to be a knowable separator to know how to adjust for compensation (in the photoshop file) before using those techniques. I mean you can, you can print dots and you can cut back on halftones areas in the greyscale sep in photoshop, but unless you have a densitometer and can read where you are on press or on paper or tee, you won’t really know. Most do just fine with them tho. Most don’t really want or care that the 5% is not a real 5% or that the 70% is filling at the shadow tones. They work with what they have. They just want a small dot there that holds in the screen.
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This is exactly why i ditched accurip - now use PrintFab XL with our 1430 no issues and cheaper.
I think my only problem with Printfab was that it didn’t work on Mac (I think) if I remember correctly. I’m on a Mac here at work. :(
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to the best of my knowledge, neither supports controlling the amount of ink to make the films correct density. . .
pierre
Don't know about all brand printers, but I can control the density on my Epson 1400 (at print time) by sliding the "Brightness" bar to -25 and the "Saturation" bar to +25 for darker prints. No other adjustments needed.
I know Ghost is the red-headed stepchild for RIPS, but it is free, often updated, and has always done what I needed for halftone prints.
The ink density being controlled by the sliders may due just that, (control the density), but back to Pierre’s point is that this Density is just one part that helps burn better screens and hold smaller dots. That makes the ink layer more opaque but plays a role in affecting the “gain”.
as does Slow speed versus High Speed printing and Bi Directional printing versus Uni-Directional printing. But the control he’s talking about is on the % of tones that come out. Are they accurate or the right size? How do you compensate (in the Ghost RIP) for this? So Lets say your dots are very opaque. As opaque as you need and then some. But are your 10% dots coming out as 15 or 17? Maybe they are lighter and the 10% area is coming out at 6 or 8%? A good RIP has an area in there that looks much like the CURVES in Photoshop that enable you to compensate in there for this. How this areas looks, really depends on the RIP brand. I’ve seen some where you just enter in the numbers in a grid. Most others look more like curves in Photoshop. All printers don’t print out a 50% at a true 50%. Little do many know that when you need to have them print out precise or linearized, you need to compensate for what it is giving you. and how you use the printers (how they are set up) determines how much more gain there is at output. You begin by reading what you are getting from your printer at a documented setting that you like. Then you read this with the densitometer.