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Heat Seal - Heat Press - Whatever you want to call it! => General Heat Seal => Topic started by: inkman996 on September 08, 2021, 10:26:20 AM
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Thats all I have to say
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But with no details as to why, and what we should be aware and/or wary of?
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Oh I could go on and on from their ridiculous pricing and shady pricing practices, such as forcing you to constantly go to a much larger size because left chests is just 4 x 4, or the fact you cannot gang anything. I placed an order last week that has a left chest and a back, because of no ganging I had to do two separate orders for each location. The price was nuts but it was a must have. Even tho I placed both orders with in minutes of each other with the exact same project name, they decided to do one on one day and the other on the next. The shitty ass software said both would be done same day and shipped. Just found out the order was not shipped in total yesterday and the other location went out today. Well that sucks because the job is due tomorrow for a special race and one location will not come till friday. Now I have to scramble and get a 4CP print figured out and done in time.
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That's why I try to do as much production inhouse as I can, no one cares about your deadlines but you!!!!! when you depend on outside sources sometimes. DTF printing can be a pain in the butt when a printer starts acting crazy trust me I know, have spend a little time myself with ours.
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I let the end user pay for all of that, if they want it. I do have a preference for gang sheets though. That being said, a package that needed to arrive today didn't, but UPS still says it's "on the way...". Notice, it doesn't say "Out for delivery". Friggin' semantics...
Steve
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I let the end user pay for all of that, if they want it. I do have a preference for gang sheets though. That being said, a package that needed to arrive today didn't, but UPS still says it's "on the way...". Notice, it doesn't say "Out for delivery". Friggin' semantics...
Steve
It's all bad. We just have to suck it up sometimes.
Waiting on some transfers shipped USPS on the 1st, and haven't seen any tracking progress since the 5th when they hit Jersey.
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same as D, we make as much in house as we can. I have been let down too many times. In a perfect production world, you place your order for X, you have an expected arrival date - you plan accordingly. In reality- your file is corrupt, the artist got fired for bangin the secretary, the prints aren't the right color, USPS lost your package in a hurricane, your shirts arrive with holes and your printer put the front print on the back... and that's all before 10am...
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I just went through this same scenario with Stickeryou.com I suggest anyone not use them. :(
I think I posted about my issue on my 2nd part (of one order) and I just got notice yesterday, that it was completed and now shipped. But that has it at 5:46 pm yesterday, so really (today) and it will be another 5 days before I get it. That’s 5 wks total of messing around with this co.
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I haven't used them because tprnt.com is so amazing. It's DonR from here. They got their equipment back up and running and have redundancy as well. They gang sheets, btw.
I want to do it in house, we just don't quite have the demand for it yet.
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I haven't used them because tprnt.com is so amazing. It's DonR from here. They got their equipment back up and running and have redundancy as well. They gang sheets, btw.
I want to do it in house, we just don't quite have the demand for it yet.
Yep I have done some of his samples and placed our first order. Far easier tto deal with, just a few sheet sizes to choose from and you can gang. Their pricing will blow Supa away by a mile. As long as the first order goes well it will be nothing but them from here on out. Plus they are only 30 minutes away. Tho 1990 is calling and wants their web site back.
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I got samples from tprnt too. I am super impressed. If the need arises I will order from Don. I will not even look or check prices anywhere else.
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I haven't used them because tprnt.com is so amazing. It's DonR from here. They got their equipment back up and running and have redundancy as well. They gang sheets, btw.
I want to do it in house, we just don't quite have the demand for it yet.
Yep I have done some of his samples and placed our first order. Far easier tto deal with, just a few sheet sizes to choose from and you can gang. Their pricing will blow Supa away by a mile. As long as the first order goes well it will be nothing but them from here on out. Plus they are only 30 minutes away. Tho 1990 is calling and wants their web site back.
I agree about the website. It's functional, just dated looking.
Get this though, I can walk to supacolor if needed. They are that close. I'll still use Tprnt from CT.
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Funny thing about websites. Mine is very simple and old, with minimal interactivity as it's purely informational. Of those who have commented at all, I get way more positives than knocks. Many say it's refreshing to not be assaulted with bells and whistles.
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I like Supacolor, make your image look like one image and then you can sneak in "gang sheets"
Yes it's less expensive to print yourself, but what about when you are booked printing and you have someone heat pressing you are producing in two areas?
You get what you pay for. Price it accordingly, and set better expectations with your clients for lead-times, and pay for expedited shipping from Supa.
Check out Apex Transfers and Transfer Express also offer a similar product to Supa and both allow gang sheets, but price is higher in the low quantities especially for Apex.
Everyone makes mistakes, but give yourself a buffer for those and life is Supa ;)
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Yes, our website is ugly but our transfers are great.
Dan, if you need transfers tomorrow morning to meet your deadline, I can print them first thing and you can come down to pick them up.
I hear all of your complaints about outsourcing, I have been there myself. We will not be perfect but I will always try to communicate so you can make informed decisions to get your jobs done correctly and on time.
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DonR
Got your samples they worked great test washing now.
One confusing point for me is the color squares on your samples . Are you printing CMYK , RGB or ?
mind that I am old and stupid about this process and had some CMYK issues with another source I have used.
Any light you can shed on my darkness will help.
mooseman
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The color blocks on the samples are random colors. We have another sample that is several rows of color blocks that have the RGB values listed within each block. We will be sending this sample along with first orders. You can use it to help match colors.
We are still fine tuning the ICC profile that we use. Some current problem areas are: dark grays appear almost black and reds appear a little to orange. These problems will be fixed soon. In the meantime, if we see a problem we are manually making adjustments. Once we have the ICC profile where we want it, we will make a new color block sheet for everyone.
Since we are talking problems, one we are seeing a lot is very fine lines and small text. When creating your artwork please remember that we choke the white underbase by 2 to 3 pixels. Very thin lines and text will not be underbased correctly.
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Since we are talking problems, one we are seeing a lot is very fine lines and small text. When creating your artwork please remember that we choke the white underbase by 2 to 3 pixels. Very thin lines and text will not be underbased correctly.
For those sending in art files. A way to improve the underbases in these cases would be to create all art at a higher resolution (and for Don) to output the files at that same resolution. Typically 600 ppi is going to provide a tighter pixels that will enable you to underbase small and thin type (more so) than a 300ppi file. At 300, there is just not enough pixel to choke 2 pixels for a base and shift. At 600, the type is more well formed…and you have more pixel data to work with.
I do this for SP. works great.
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As much as I would love to experiment with doing them ourselves, I simply don't have the time to work on it. I have some jobs that have been reorders from Supacolor, and I'll continue to use them for those. I've also been very happy with TPRNT's transfers, and being in Mass. they are only a day away. I missed them while they were down, but I already have my first job on the way, should arrive today (please, God).
Steve
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Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels.
If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.
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Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels.
If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.
Got our order in today from you guys and the print looks great. Will be pressing them later on.
Side question is it possible to do halftone fades to shirt color, like shadows? Or will there have to be some kid=nd of white base under the dots?
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Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that :P
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Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that :P
I am assuming correctly that the base layer has to be printed under all colors n matter what? As in you cannot just print a fade with in one color direct to the film and press that on?
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Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that :P
I am assuming correctly that the base layer has to be printed under all colors n matter what? As in you cannot just print a fade with in one color direct to the film and press that on?
not unless you know what the hell you are doing.... 8)
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We have done it with halftones. Do not use transparent colors, they do not work well with DTF. Some of the additional artwork services that we offer are knocking out the shirt color, creating the type of halftone you are talking about, and changing transparent colors to halftones. Knocking out black on a transfer going onto a black shirt works great to create a much softer feel. Halftones can also help with the feel of the shirt.
These service are not available on the website at this time. You can email designs to info@tprnt.com for these services. It takes a bit of trial and error get them right. Once we get what we think looks good, we would send a picture of the transfer printed on a shirt for you to approve.
You can do this work yourself before uploading the design but we will just print whatever you send. I have had good results with halftones between 45lpi and 55lpi. Do this at your own risk...
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Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels. If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.
That’s the beauty of doubling the pixels from 300 to 600 means that (when you do increase the choke from 2 pixels on 300ppi, to 3 pixels on 600ppi, then you have a cleaner, tighter choke with something to work with. I think if you’ve been having poor results at 600, on the choke, then you may not be accommodating the choke for the 600. Like maybe using the same pixel number when you should be doubling it at most, but I use 3 pixels at 600ppi. 2 pixels at 300ppi. I find 4 to be too much.
Choking a times Roman Font with serifs at 300ppi, doesn’t leave you anything. It leaves you with a chunk on the base at the tip of the serifs) and then a broken line on stem. At 600ppi, you have at least a complete line, and 1-2 pixels thicker than a 300ppi file.
This image below, is an example of the results.
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Thanks Dan, that is a good example of how the higher resolution helps.