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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: inkman996 on February 01, 2022, 04:02:49 PM
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Have this job to print for a great customer. Its a large job so no transfers. At first glance loks simple, then we get put on notie this print has to come out flawless. First thing I think is how do I do this with no white peeking out from half tones? My first thought is a white base only under the blue outline and gold yellow. Flash, gold yellow then two blue screens. My worry is how to seperate the two blues so there is no noticeable line of where one starts and one stops. Reason for two blues with no white base is to get enough opacity of the blue, but how to avoid the hard stop line? My thought is the first blue just the solid section only, the second blue all the solid sections then a fade to shirt.
Thoughts?
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This seems to be one of this where we would better answer if we could see the art. If it’s customer sensitive, them maybe just a corner of the areas in question.
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Oops I forgot to uplaod. I left out the school logo.
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what if you go the other way and print a solid base under all the blue, and then print the darker blue fade on top of it all?
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what if you go the other way and print a solid base under all the blue, and then print the darker blue fade on top of it all?
Yeah I would print the dark blue for the fade.
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This is probably a stupid idea, but owing to the need for "no white" to be even remotely seen and the perfection angle, how about 2 screens of Dark and Light Blue using Plasticharge? Along with the other color also in Plasticharge? That would skate the need for a white underbase.
Just a thought.
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How about no white at all? Can this be done water based?
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How about no white at all? Can this be done water based?
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That's where I was going but I don't use waterbase and would try Plasticharge with Plastisol inks. But I think that artwork is going to be pretty tricky with the blues fading in and out almost like a neon sign.
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This is probably a stupid idea, but owing to the need for "no white" to be even remotely seen and the perfection angle, how about 2 screens of Dark and Light Blue using Plasticharge? Along with the other color also in Plasticharge? That would skate the need for a white underbase.
Just a thought.
I am exploring that idea, only issue is we have a short but wide electric oven.
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use translucent ink, something for simulated process. print blue at 100% across all letters and control the fade with the underbase. translucent ink is barely visible if there is no underbase, but the last letter you'll be able to see it very faint. If the blue is process blue, just use the 4CP and it will come out perfect.
pierre
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How many colour press.
That blue looks like it might cover well as an ink , so I would likely try white( backer for yellow) , spot, yellow, blue spot blue?
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How many colour press.
That blue looks like it might cover well as an ink , so I would likely try white( backer for yellow) , spot, yellow, blue spot blue?
We have an 8 color, 2 flashes. I am going to try two blues first and hope they are opaque enough.
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I would use the light blue as my under for the blue text. Depending on the quantity you may just want to run around twice on a single light blue screen and dark blue on top. The same could be done with the yellow/gold or you can ub that with the light blue too.
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I would use the light blue as my under for the blue text. Depending on the quantity you may just want to run around twice on a single light blue screen and dark blue on top. The same could be done with the yellow/gold or you can ub that with the light blue too.
Cannot print a dark blue, customer specific, must daylight out to the shirt
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I would use the light blue as my under for the blue text. Depending on the quantity you may just want to run around twice on a single light blue screen and dark blue on top. The same could be done with the yellow/gold or you can ub that with the light blue too.
Cannot print a dark blue, customer specific, must daylight out to the shirt
ahh if that's the case, then I think you'd be right on with the two blue screens, one gradient, one solid. don't over think it.
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I would use the light blue as my under for the blue text. Depending on the quantity you may just want to run around twice on a single light blue screen and dark blue on top. The same could be done with the yellow/gold or you can ub that with the light blue too.
Cannot print a dark blue, customer specific, must daylight out to the shirt
ahh if that's the case, then I think you'd be right on with the two blue screens, one gradient, one solid. don't over think it.
This is how I'd start, similar to a white image with halftones; the whole image with halftones, as fine a line screen as you can hold, on a 305 mesh or higher, flash it, and print the second blue on a 230 or even a 200. For the gold, you can use the same gold twice, PFP. Tweak as necessary.
Steve
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Not enough information to go off of and don't know your setup, but probably cannot do discharge for whatever reason.
With plastisol I'd do this
1 - Base (110 Mesh - 2 Pulls) Goes under the yellow and solid blue area choked back.
2 - Flash
3 - Flattening Screen
4 - Yellow (156 Mesh - 2 Pulls)
5 - Flash
6 - Cool
7 - Solid Blue (148 Mesh - 2 Pulls) Just the solid areas, probably none of the halftone area
8 - Flash
9 - Cool
10 - Halftone Blue (230 Mesh - 2 Pulls) No base, and a high opacity ink
If the halftone didn't look good enough there I'd add another screen
11 - Flash
12 - Cool
13 - Halftone Blue (280 Mesh - 1 Pulls) Maybe do this a hair less opaque so the dots fall in the same place but are smaller so easier to line up and don't get too much dot gain.
Issue is I work at a place with a 16 color press so even though it's only a 5 color, I'd use the whole space to make an excellent looking print.
If I was doing water base / HSA I'd condense the same as above and add a blocker or second base so it really pops.
Or if you could use discharge then I'd discharge under base the outline and yellow, and still split up the solids in the blue but that gradient would look really nice with discharge on a Navy tee, and I'd personally have the first letter be like 80 percent opacity on the inside to exaggerate the fade a little bit and compensate for gain.
Now if printing manually you could do the same, but if on a smaller auto you'd have to get creative and print some colors on each other without flashing, you could potentially do
1 - Halftone Blue
2 - Base White
3 - Flash
4 - Flattening Screen
5 - Solid Blue
6 - Yellow
7 - Flash
8 - Cool
9 - Halftone Blue
I don't think you can just do one halftone blue with plastisol and get what I would consider a good print, and you could potentially skip that last cool if you are on an 8 color auto since the last one would be a halftone high mesh screen so not a ton of ink coming down for sticking.
Anyhow, many ways to go about this, the best way is what works best for your shop and aligns with the customers vision. See above that we use much lower meshes than other people post on this board, but I like a bright opaque print and can use other tools to make it feel softer.
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I, for one, would love to find out how this ended up. Was the job done? If so, how was it done?
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I, for one, would love to find out how this ended up. Was the job done? If so, how was it done?
We have several weeks to play with this job, but I did set it up last night the way I mentioned in the original post and it looks like it will be a winner. I will post a pick as soon as I remember to.
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I'm amazed at how a simple looking job is so very complex, we've had customer bring in jobs that look to only be one to two colors to them but ends up being more colors to get it to look like there art. Then you have to tell them it going to take two shades of grey,black,white etc ???
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I'm amazed at how a simple looking job is so very complex, we've had customer bring in jobs that look to only be one to two colors to them but ends up being more colors to get it to look like there art. Then you have to tell them it going to take two shades of grey,black,white etc ???
I agree, I do jobs all the time that are far more complex looking but find they are really easy. Looking at this and the customers requests to not see white and fade to shirt I realized this will be more difficult than it looks. I will post a pick soon but I think I have it nailed.
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The job has run, it came out perfect. I attached two images, the first one shows the colors well but moire shows from the camera, not the actual shirt. The second image shows the print better but terrible color.
Pretty simple actually.
base white, 2 strokes.
Flash
Gold Yellow
Flash
First blue solid
Second blue half tones only, 305 mesh 65lpi
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Turned out great,
thanks for actually following back with results!
How far do you choke your bases?
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Turned out great,
thanks for actually following back with results!
How far do you choke your bases?
.5PT max. It looks like to much choke in the images but its actually not in person. I hate taking pictures to show screen printing, it never looks right