TSB
screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: jsheridan on February 03, 2012, 12:40:55 PM
-
Is when you're in the middle of a 300 piece run, discharge white I may add, and your dryer goess... BzzZZZZTTT!!! with a flash of light and blows the fuse.. grrr.
Seems that for the third time the connection to the heat panel leads melted and fused with their neighbor wiring. I was out of replacement high temp wire so had to run the rest of the night on 2 panels and super slow belt speed.
the best part of the night.. I was using the new CCI D-White.. OMG! getting 2 gallons of it today 8)
-
I have yet to see an electric panel that doesn't do that eventually. I guess it's against
the laws of nature to bond nichrome to copper.
D-White is the jam.
-
I'm going to re-wire this thing completely, add a switch for the 3rd panel and some lights to know when a lead is compromised. I'll up the gauge of the wire also as I noticed an amp loss on the heat panel farthest from the mag controller, that equates to wire length. The other problem is the crimped connectors.. think i want to find a way to improve that connection.. maybe brazing the lead to the wire may help..
any ideas out there for a better connection from wire end to crimp connector or a solder that can handle 700+ degrees of heat
-
are you using stainless connectors? The copper ones melt too quickly.
-
Stainless high temp connectors with stainless socket screws and nuts to attach the two leads together.
-
Give Winston Strickland a call.
904-343-0848
-
I've known Winston for ohh... 10 years or so now. Great guy but I know the problem and can fix it myself. When I can't.. he gets the call.
He may be able to help me source the wire for less, let me check with him.
-
Good stainless crimp on lugs will do the job but you need to match the crimper to the lug. Most run of the mill crimpers squash the lug and flatten the wires and creates voids. The wire will feel tight in the crimp but most are loose in the center and with constant expansion and contraction from heat they will loosen. More heat is created from the loose connection until it melts down. A good crimper will crush the lug all the way around securing the wires tight inside and out. There are specific crimpers for specific lugs. If you really wanted to watch the condition of the connections you could put CT's on each leg of each panel, install a rotary switch with the same amount of switches as the total amount of the CT's and a digital amp gauge. It would be a bit costly but you could watch the amp draw on each leg and watch for one climbing, a loose connection.
-
Gave Winston a call and he put me in the right direction. Said the same as you did Bink, make sure the crimps are good and strong. Said it would be best to drop to 10GA wire as well while I'm re-doing it all. That was the problem, dryer has 14GA now and when I bumped up the heat, it increased the amps and toasted the connection.
It's great talking to him, always good stuff to say. He's been in the Caribbean for the last 2 weeks soaking up some sun.. and working on some equipment ;D
-
It seems like this is a common problem but its kinda bs that a machine wouldn't be made for better longevity from the factory you know? 14ga on high-wattage IR panels doesn't sound to straight to me. Our vastex, bless it's little heart, has run faithfully for years, not a single issue with the panels. So has our flash which was essentially built as a short-run or maybe a prototype from shelf parts. I'd be a cranky sob if the dryer panels were popping on me in the middle of runs.
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
-
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
I was blown away by it.. just put the ink in a cup, added the activator to that, stirred up. Let it sit while I taped and reg'ed the screen. Gave it a stir and into the screen.. a flood and a medium speed stroke was all it takes for the brightest white I've seen from any discharge white.
The difference is the thickness.. this is like a really creamy thick white that likes to cling to the blade. i can see myself wanting to thin it down just a tad to get some flow but that might goof the opacity.
I called CCI today and ordered two gallons.. well 1 really, the 2nd was a BOGO deal and some activator. I get it on Tuesday when the rep hand delivers it 8)
-
I was blown away by it.. just put the ink in a cup, added the activator to that, stirred up. Let it sit while I taped and reg'ed the screen. Gave it a stir and into the screen.. a flood and a medium speed stroke was all it takes for the brightest white I've seen from any discharge white.
The difference is the thickness.. this is like a really creamy thick white that likes to cling to the blade. i can see myself wanting to thin it down just a tad to get some flow but that might goof the opacity.
It doesn't. Stays bright white. We just went through another 5 gallon. The stuff slays!
The only other thing besides Fixer we might add to it depending on brand of shirt is just one tiny drop of black per 500 grams. Helps keep the slight "yellow" out of the white on Port Authority PC61's for example.
That's all I got. Have a good weekend everybody!
-
Not to derail the thread but I love the CCI stuff as well. Got 4 gallons coming next week. I put it in a cup add activator and a splash of water and just like John tape up throw it in and go. Printing thru a 180 mesh screen and 1 good hard stroke. Love this stuff.
-
It seems like this is a common problem but its kinda bs that a machine wouldn't be made for better longevity from the factory you know? 14ga on high-wattage IR panels doesn't sound to straight to me. Our vastex, bless it's little heart, has run faithfully for years, not a single issue with the panels. So has our flash which was essentially built as a short-run or maybe a prototype from shelf parts. I'd be a cranky sob if the dryer panels were popping on me in the middle of runs.
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
Moving to 10 gage wire will solve a lot of your problem. 14 gage in a heat environment is not a good idea regardless if it meets the amp rating. As far as the stakon to be used you should use a nickel plated steel stakon with stainless bolt,nut,and washers. When stripping the wire use a professional wire stripper, not the cheap units. If you mar the wire while stripping the insulation you are already destined to fail. The high temp wire is plated to prevent heat fatigue and if marred will be a place where the problem begins and as others have said use the proper crimping tool. A proper connection and wire gage should last the life of the element which in our elements is usually in excess of 10 years.
-
It seems like this is a common problem but its kinda bs that a machine wouldn't be made for better longevity from the factory you know? 14ga on high-wattage IR panels doesn't sound to straight to me. Our vastex, bless it's little heart, has run faithfully for years, not a single issue with the panels. So has our flash which was essentially built as a short-run or maybe a prototype from shelf parts. I'd be a cranky sob if the dryer panels were popping on me in the middle of runs.
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
Moving to 10 gage wire will solve a lot of your problem. 14 gage in a heat environment is not a good idea regardless if it meets the amp rating. As far as the stakon to be used you should use a nickel plated steel stakon with stainless bolt,nut,and washers. When stripping the wire use a professional wire stripper, not the cheap units. If you mar the wire while stripping the insulation you are already destined to fail. The high temp wire is plated to prevent heat fatigue and if marred will be a place where the problem begins and as others have said use the proper crimping tool. A proper connection and wire gage should last the life of the element which in our elements is usually in excess of 10 years.
Now that's more like it. Nobody should be re-installing wiring to a panel until that panel finally bites it.
Thanks for that tip. I've never had to strip high temp wire to re-connect a heat panel because our gear was built to a higher standard than some apparently but that's excellent info to know all the same.
-
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
Skip right to the CCI discharge bases. Never look back. It's that good.
You can use Matsui's pigment and matching system until CCI's is available.
-
So John, you like that CCI disc over the Matsui? I'm still making my decision on what to start one. Sounds like Matsui is great but CCI is greater so far.
Skip right to the CCI discharge bases. Never look back. It's that good.
You can use Matsui's pigment and matching system until CCI's is available.
Word. I'll do it. Thx.
-
Word from my rep is the cci pigments are a couple months away
-
Years ago we had amp meters put in our old Vastex.
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i116/swmankin/AmpMeters.jpg)
-
Who would have thought it was going to be this tough to source the wire locally.. :o
I prefer to spend my $$ locally so been calling all over town and not a single elctrical nor specialty supply has this stuff on the shelves. They can all order it but then they quote me at 3-4 bucks a foot to get it. I can get it from up north in LA for $1.80 a ft. At least that's still in CA.
-
that's funny, usually the local places around here beat Grainger, which is right down the road. I'd rather spend money with the locally owned shops, and sometimes they beat the heck out of grainger. Like $30 for a 30A 3phase breaker vs $125 from grainger.
-
I don't shop at grainger period!
#1 they aren't local and all money leaves the state and goes back to corporate anyway and
#2 their prices... :o are you kidding me.
I'm going to get it from the place up in L.A. as they are the only ones who seem to have it in Cali and on the shelf.
-
Check out Johnstone Supply (http://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/index.ep). They have San Diego and Escondido locations.
What I don't know though is if you can find accurate pricing listed because they kinda changed to listing retail , at least in some catalogs, even though they only sell wholesale. You will have to establish an account, but it's no biggie.
-
I don't often shop grainger, but when I need something, they have it. I could call around and try and find a specific motor or capacitor, or just call up grainger and have it waiting for me and put it on my account.
I prefer to keep money local, but at least it stays in the US, the parts are the same parts, mostly made in China or Mexico.
Grainger is a customer of mine though. ;)
So I have to direct some of my shopping there. More than local, i try and support those that support me.
-
Good high temp wire rated for 800 degrees with fiberglass and mica insulation will run $4-$5 per foot even in bulk.
Grainger has high list prices to keep every Tom, Dick and Harry out. If you deal with them daily the prices are hard to beat. Most of the time when you deal in volume your account manager will price match. Best bet is to find someone who has a large account, ask permission to use it and pay when you pick up to get the best price. Another great service they have is after hour and weekend emergency pickup. If they have the part at the branch they will open the doors for a flat fee of $50.
-
Try commercial kitchen supply/equipment shop.
That's where I had to find my hight temp ring terminals. NO ONE else had them... the commercial oven repair shop had them and for cheap!