TSB
screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: blue moon on February 16, 2012, 05:00:29 PM
-
no time to chat, but I did run into this and had to post it before forgetting . . .
http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com/See_it_in_action.html (http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com/See_it_in_action.html)
pierre
-
Seen it a while back. It's real similar to the one I made years ago, except I had a slightly different jig. Mine was a pallet with the three stop blocks coming out from underneath it and his jig is different. I used double sided tape instead of the glue but the overall concept is very similar. I took the same jig that I lined up my film to the screen to the press and mounted it just like a regular pallet (just like the triloc) and his jig doesn't have a pallet extrusion or mount to the press like mine did. If I'd have known that system was different enough to get a patent on it I would have tried. I just thought that it was too much like the vastex VRS and triloc to even try.
-
Still spinning a pallet around negates this as being faster than MHM.
-
Still spinning a pallet around negates this as being faster than MHM.
sure, but the point was that this should work for anybody, manual or auto and the investment can not be that big!
pierre
-
I always lined up screens this way in the screenroom, (except for our MHM of course) taking that to the press is pretty creative, and it should work for the machines that don't have side clamps, manual or auto. Nice job I say.
Steve
-
You will have to get your screen holders modified like his if you have an M&R.
-
He used the watered down adhesive to hold the film to the FPU but what held the film to the screen?
-
He used the watered down adhesive to hold the film to the FPU but what held the film to the screen?
I would say, use clear emulsion and place the screen upside down. That should solve any placement problems! The jig would have to be adjusted so it centers on the platten as it would have to be flipped over on the press, but that would not be hard. Than drill a little hole in the setup platten and have light come through it for the registration marks to make it even easier to line up. You could even set up a laser pointer above it, but a really fine dot coming through the platten would probably be better.
pierre
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting www.bullseyescreenregistration.com (http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com)
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting [url=http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com]www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url] ([url]http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url])
Can't find the price anywhere... mind sharing that here?
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting [url=http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com]www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url] ([url]http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url])
iTS LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IN SCREEN PRINTING, IF YOU HAVE TO ASK THEN YOU CAN AFFORD IT...:)
Can't find the price anywhere... mind sharing that here?
-
I got that feeling too Jason.
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting [url=http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com]www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url] ([url]http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url])
Welcome to the forums Doug! Nice looking reg system. Is there a way to make it work with smaller frames, such as 20" or 21" widths?
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting [url=http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com]www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url] ([url]http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url])
Can't find the price anywhere... mind sharing that here?
iTS LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IN SCREEN PRINTING, IF YOU HAVE TO ASK THEN YOU CANt AFFORD IT...:)
-
[
Hi Welcome to the forums Doug! Nice looking reg system. Is there a way to make it work with smaller frames, such as 20" or 21" widths?
I too am wondering if it also works on the smaller screens ( man.)
-
Hi I'm the creator of this system. I also run a screenprinting shop using a M&R Sportsman. I need to clear up a few details about the registration system. The need to modify your clamps if you have an M&R is not necessary. Scotch tape will hold your positives in place on the FPU while double-sided tape secures the positive to the back side of the screen. I repeat, there is no need to modify your screen clamps if you have an M&R. After all of the screens have been exposed, you remove the attachment from the FPU and attach it to a pallet on your press. Next simply butt the screens to the stops on the attachment and your done. You can read more on how this works by visiting [url=http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com]www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url] ([url]http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com[/url])
Welcome Doug, it's a nice place here. Very nice job on the unit, simple, adjustable, portable. Real screen printer ingenuity.
Steve
-
Hi everyone.
As of the moment I've only had time to test this on the M&R Sportsman and Diamondback because that's the only presses I've been able to get near because I use them everyday. I know that it will not work on a
20x24 frame yet. I will eventually get this done for smaller frames when I have time to get away from printing. As far as the price, I've been dealing with manufacturers in Arkansas so far trying to negotiate cost
while keeping the same quality. I don't want to have this done overseas because we have way to many jobs over there as it is. That's the hold up "the pricing", but I'm trying to keep it in the $650 to $800 price range. The price will include the pallet attachment, layout table, cd with templates I use and instructional DVD. You can use the templates on the cd or make one for yourself. By the way, I will post another video soon with a step by step showing you a setup. I will let you know as soon as I get this done. We have 2 people running our shop and I'm the screen printer, sign maker and maintenance guy so time is a rare commodity, but I will get this done. Thanks for the welcome to the Shirt Board. If you have any questions, you can call me anytime at 870-222-6331
-
I am interested. I was wondering though, say you shoot a screen in a 155 and you should have done a 230 or something else. Can I go back, shoot another screen and have it pop right in to production?
-
Absolutely, I've done it before.. Your template will remain on your layout table, so you line the positive back up to the same marks. The pallet attachment has stops on it so you but the stops back up to the edge of the layout table before exposing the replacement screen.
-
...I don't want to have this done overseas because we have way to many jobs over there as it is. ...
(http://www.funnyforumpics.com/forums/Youre-Awseome/1/Misc-Mad_Props.jpg)
-
Still spinning a pallet around negates this as being faster than MHM.
sure, but the point was that this should work for anybody, manual or auto and the investment can not be that big!
pierre
Understood. I agree this is a nice simple to use system. Looks like it will cross over to other manufacturers.
-
Discounts for new product testers? LOL... what am I talking about I have a manual press :-\ Make one for us manual guys, I'm sick of wasting an hour to get a 6 color job in near perfect regi, such a pain in the assss and a buzz kill!
-
shawn you really need to work on setup times, that will kill a small manual shop.
-
Discounts for new product testers? LOL... what am I talking about I have a manual press :-\ Make one for us manual guys, I'm sick of wasting an hour to get a 6 color job in near perfect regi, such a pain in the assss and a buzz kill!
Shawn,
What are you doing so wrong that it takes hours? I have teh same press as you and I can load and register 3 two color jobs on the press at teh same time and have it done in less than a min each screen (less than that most of the time) Then after inking and printing the first shirt I have it dialed in in less than another minute.
Please share with use how it takes an hour? I am wanting to help you.
Jon
-
Discounts for new product testers? LOL... what am I talking about I have a manual press :-\ Make one for us manual guys, I'm sick of wasting an hour to get a 6 color job in near perfect regi, such a pain in the assss and a buzz kill!
Shawn,
What are you doing so wrong that it takes hours? I have teh same press as you and I can load and register 3 two color jobs on the press at teh same time and have it done in less than a min each screen (less than that most of the time) Then after inking and printing the first shirt I have it dialed in in less than another minute.
Please share with use how it takes an hour? I am wanting to help you.
Jon
I print the most detailed screen first on a scrap tee and register the screens to that print , but when I go and print that first full color test print it's never perfect.
-
this is exactly like my new rig I'm testing except i don't need the FPU. . straight from printer to exposure unit then to press. . .nicely done, looks like it was machined well. . . 650.00, you will def sell many, my price point was 500 but the numbers didn't add up with materials. . atleast not yet. . .
-
This post ended up in the wrong section,
What type of reg marks are you using? I used to use a fat mark and had alot of trouble registering jobs. I went to small centerlines and bullseyes in the corners and line up each screen to a film positive and bam I cut my setup times by more than half. Sometimes a small change can make a big difference.
-
This post ended up in the wrong section,
What type of reg marks are you using? I used to use a fat mark and had alot of trouble registering jobs. I went to small centerlines and bullseyes in the corners and line up each screen to a film positive and bam I cut my setup times by more than half. Sometimes a small change can make a big difference.
defult ones that come out of PS or IL
-
I love regi systems. I've built half a dozen over the years and some worked great, some didn't work worth a damn.
-
Discounts for new product testers? LOL... what am I talking about I have a manual press :-\ Make one for us manual guys, I'm sick of wasting an hour to get a 6 color job in near perfect regi, such a pain in the assss and a buzz kill!
Shawn,
What are you doing so wrong that it takes hours? I have teh same press as you and I can load and register 3 two color jobs on the press at teh same time and have it done in less than a min each screen (less than that most of the time) Then after inking and printing the first shirt I have it dialed in in less than another minute.
Please share with use how it takes an hour? I am wanting to help you.
Jon
I print the most detailed screen first on a scrap tee and register the screens to that print , but when I go and print that first full color test print it's never perfect.
Try this. Instead of printing the first shirt and lining up to that. Take the film and tape it to your a board and line up to that. This way you can lining up all the screens to the same clean lines of the film. The printed white was a printed screen. I have never had good luck registering screens that way. If there was any slop in your mesh the printed reg marks are not exactly in the same place.
This is my steps.
1) Tape film centered on the pallet. (use masking tape under the reg marks if your pallets are covered with lint. Makes it easier to see)
2) Place screens in and line up to film. (with no off contact. The screen should be flat on the board with the bottom of the screen holder level with the baord. Do this by lowering the off contact until the screen touches the board. then raise the OC till the bottom of the screen holder touches the screen.
3) Load all the screen this way.
4) Then one at a time bring each screen back down on the film to make sure they stayed in place. Sometimes you have tension on the screen from adjusting. By lifted and bringing the screen back down you will be able to make sure it will print right.
5) Then just load ink and start printing. You may have to do some small adjustments if you have sloppy screens. But it shouldn’t take more than 2 mins a screen to have it printing perfectly from loading the screen on the press and printing.
-
I register the exact way as screenedgear does. I used to try lining up on test shirts and that would take me half hour or more to line up a 2-3 color job. Now its a matter of minutes. And like he said maybe some very minor tweaking after all screens are lined up to the positive if any at all.
-
Glue the eff out of the shirt to the pallet, print underbase or keyline. Cover design in clear tape. Register screen,
ink, print, check reggie, wipe ink off design, adjust if necessary, proceed with other screens.
-
Glue the eff out of the shirt to the pallet, print underbase or keyline. Cover design in clear tape. Register screen,
ink, print, check reggie, wipe ink off design, adjust if necessary, proceed with other screens.
I do the same as well... It just made the most sense when I first started trying to figure it all out.
-
I register to the positive also, but instead of lowering the off contact, I have a piece of plexi-glass that is as thick as my off contact that i put on top of the pallet. Then I tape the positive to that and I register without ever changing anything on the press.
-
I register to the positive also, but instead of lowering the off contact, I have a piece of plexi-glass that is as thick as my off contact that i put on top of the pallet. Then I tape the positive to that and I register without ever changing anything on the press.
Thank you! you just solved a problem I've had in my head for a few years now.
-
Its so funny how little things like that can rack our brains, that's why I love this place. I've learned a lot from you guys, glad I could give something back.
-
I register to the positive also, but instead of lowering the off contact, I have a piece of plexi-glass that is as thick as my off contact that i put on top of the pallet. Then I tape the positive to that and I register without ever changing anything on the press.
I thought of doing that at one point, it is a good way to do it. On my press when I increase the off contact it does not affect the registration. (I never do a ton of off contact)
-
I register to the positive also, but instead of lowering the off contact, I have a piece of plexi-glass that is as thick as my off contact that i put on top of the pallet. Then I tape the positive to that and I register without ever changing anything on the press.
Thank you! you just solved a problem I've had in my head for a few years now.
Screen Printing Press Orientation 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU7e9B6Y_J4#)
-
doug posted a new video on how to use the system...
http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com/See_it_in_action.html (http://www.bullseyescreenregistration.com/See_it_in_action.html)
-
I just ordered mine, we'll see how it does!