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screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: Croft on March 13, 2012, 05:17:30 PM
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Have been working on getting my Newmans stretched and have bought there pricey yellow frame tape.
Its not sticking!!! no way it will stand up to multiple washings , it sticks to the frame but not the mesh. I may have made a mistake on the first few by putting it on new mesh because it may be coated with something?. I de-greassed my second batch and the tape isn't sticking was a new roll sealed in bag. Using sefar e mesh 110- to 230 mesh
What do you use any other tape options
Frustrated!
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we use cloth tape that last forever...
check it out from your supplier
sam
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We use the white polyken, chemical resistant tape. It's a love it or hate it tape. I absolutely love it and wouldn't waste my time or money on anything else, but others have issues with it. Most of the problems seem to be from not being able to get the tape off cleanly but we don't have much of an issue with that.
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We use the white Polyken, chemical resistant tape. It's a love it or hate it tape. I absolutely love it and wouldn't waste my time or money on anything else, but others have issues with it. Most of the problems seem to be from not being able to get the tape off cleanly but we don't have much of an issue with that.
Alan,
Are you using the Polyken on Newman's a la Bill Hood's technique? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FgXNmcb__o (ftp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FgXNmcb__o)
I have used Polyken on a few, but haven't done much removal of old tape yet. Heat, I assume, is the preferred procedure.
Or are you using it in a different way?
Stan
Edited: that link didn't work right, but you've probably seen it anyhow. If not google Youtube Bill Hood Newman Tape and it will probably be at the top of the list of results.
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I usually hit new mesh with a pretty concentrated degreaser. I've had polyken peel up when I forget.
I'm a fan of polyken as well--although AWT makes or rebrands a good chem tape too, with a little bit thicker liner.
I'd wonder though--I've bought used frames with that yellow stuff, and it looks beat to hell, but was still well stuck, and peeled off clean. Maybe you got a bad roll?
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we have tried Gorilla Tape I do not have a lot of time on it yet but it looks very good so far.
Holding up to water , Franmar chemicals.
the tape is quite heavy has amazing grip and looks like duct tape on steroids.
About $9.00 a roll at Lowes
mooseman
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We use the white Polyken, chemical resistant tape. It's a love it or hate it tape. I absolutely love it and wouldn't waste my time or money on anything else, but others have issues with it. Most of the problems seem to be from not being able to get the tape off cleanly but we don't have much of an issue with that.
Alan,
Are you using the Polyken on Newman's a la Bill Hood's technique? [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FgXNmcb__o[/url] ([url]ftp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FgXNmcb__o[/url])
I have used Polyken on a few, but haven't done much removal of old tape yet. Heat, I assume, is the preferred procedure.
Or are you using it in a different way?
Stan
Edited: that link didn't work right, but you've probably seen it anyhow. If not google Youtube Bill Hood Newman Tape and it will probably be at the top of the list of results.
I only tape the outside or shirt side of the frame. I used to do the inside and outside of our shurloc ez's but I found that it was double the work for no added benefits. I've got some pics or videos of our taped frames around here somewhere.
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My thinking, and I am pretty new to Newmans, was that degraded emulsion and ink wouldn't collect under and around the locking strips if I taped both sides "permanently" using the technique Bill Hood shows in the video.
I just emerged from Dirty Newman He** cleaning and straightening 18 MZX's I purchased on Craigslist. WOW what a mess. Layer upon layer of caked up emulsion and ink. What an idiot, for me to buy those without even a picture, and sight unseen. It took several wintry Saturdays, and almost two gallons of Goof Off, I was so madd.....
I didn't know people would abuse their stuff like that, some of the tubes I straightened were pinched nearly to half their new diameter!
I didn't want to have the slots and locking strips load up like the previous printer did, and decided to tape a few on both sides, just to experiment. I've done a few static frames with Polyken on both sides, and it's been OK, I guess. But I don't have any buildup of stuff on them either. I take care of MY frames. (Do I sound bitter?!?)
......Pauses to calm down.....
I'd be interested in your pics or videos Alan, and to see how you avoid emulsion and inks piling up.
Oh, and I don't use a dip tank.
Stan
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Degrease before applying the tape. Probably a coating on your mesh interrupting the tape adhesive.
Our yellow newman tape sticks great, no issues at all and removes cleaner than anything else I've tried. We double layer the outside/shirt side with it. I'm experimenting with the sandwich technique. I like it so far I think. I still can't come up with a way to avoid the temporary tape though on the inside and allow room for the rollermaster wrenches at the same time.
I wonder if the great fear of polyken tape isn't related to those gnarly old newmans we've all 'scored' only to spend hours getting that horrid tape residue off. I'd wager a nickel many of those frames were being reclaimed with hot chem's and caused the polyken's adhesive to forn a death grip to the frame. Might be worth a second try.
I wish someone, newman perhaps?, would make a tape with grip and release properties like the yellow but with a thick, flexible, plastic backer on it, to really protect the channel and outside mesh contact points. This would eliminate those damn plastic protectors.
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I wonder if the great fear of polyken tape isn't related to those gnarly old newmans we've all 'scored' only to spend hours getting that horrid tape residue off.
My biggest problem with the batch of Newmans From Heck was dried emulsion, caked on and next to impossible to remove. Tape residue was hard too, but not anything like the emulsion, which the Tape/Mesh/Tape Sandwich should solve.
Zoo, Do you use a heat gun to remove the Yellow Newman Tape?
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I'll give the other tape's a try I'm at the point of trial and error.
A lot of people slag on getting used but I picked up 100 23x31" frames in dirty shape but I paid $17.00 bucks , the canadian supplier price is over $100 + tax each. There is no way I will have more than $5.00 in cleaning. I ended up using my ink remover and a course 1" thick 3m scrubber. It cleaned the old ink of well. After that I cleaned the channel up used my air rachet to unbolt and put a little anti sieze on the bolts. We've been doing approx 10 frames in a couple ours. Then meshing them.
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Zoo, Do you use a heat gun to remove the Yellow Newman Tape?
Not necessary. It comes off about 80-90% clean and then there's a few little strips to pick off. Quick scrub down with some ickee-stickee if needed, degrease, polish the channels and it's ready again.
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I also do not like the yellow stuff. Thought I was alone.
I'll try the Polyken again one day when I'm braver. In the beginning
the shop was so cramped that I had to restretch popped screens
every other month or so. Now that screens are lasting an inordinate
amount of time the Polyken might make more sense. Removal can
be hell though.
For now we use blue R-Tape. Adheres well, comes off cleaner
than anything else we've used.
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Almost bought some of that yellow tape today that my local supplier had on sale while there to pick up some inks. Good thing I didnt...
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I remember reading that Alan uses a heat gun to pull off the Polyken.