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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: ericheartsu on April 30, 2012, 04:24:27 PM
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We have been using 110 and 86 mesh screens to print the two or three different type of Union Metallic Gold Colors.
What do you guys use in terms of mesh and in terms of ink? I'd like to try some different options!
Thanks!!
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ive been printing SHIMMERS on 86/110 with nice results...full on glitters i think you need a lower mesh than that.
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yeah i do the shimmers on 110's , usually p/f/p, gives good coverage...I do not do glitter inks...
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try the LX mesh for those. Much wider open area so it lets the particles though easier. You can step it up a mesh count and still pass more and at the same time, hold more detail!
More we use the LX mesh, more we like it.
pierre
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I'm interested in this as well... just picked up a gallon of that EXACT ink. I subbed the job that I bought it for out but I will be doing more work for the guy and it's a popular color down here in "saints territory" so I'm sure I'll use it a lot.
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I'm printing some One Stroke 180 Copper Metallic this week. I't's going through a 160, though on white, coverage is not as much of an issue as on darks.
Remember though also that there are "metallics", and there are "metallics"
This One Stroke Metallic is not. It's a shimmer. Union has both.
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I use wilflex shimmers with great success through 110.
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sorry i should clarify, we are using the shimmer also.
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I know there are many differences in terms of inks in graphic versus textile, but why is it that you need such a low mesh count to pass metallics? I use powders and a metallic mixing base, up to 355 mesh. I suppose if I wanted it to really sparkle, I would have to go with a larger particle, but the product I am using now sparkles pretty nicely if you want it to. It it because there needs to be a larger ink deposit?
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The shimmers flakes are indeed a larger particle than the aluminum or brass powders used in true metallics, but will still pass through a screen finer than 110.
I just tested my copper through a 180, and on a white shirt, it was pretty darn good.
On a dark colored shirt, however, one would not get the opacity, especially if trying to do it with one pass.
I can't accurately compare with true metallics because it's been more than ten years since I used them.
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Union Shimmer Gold and Silver ink through 110. PFP with no issues and great coverage.
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We like the Wilflex Shimmers, through a Murakami 110s, 2 passes/strokes. The 110s is a thinner thread, thus larger openings, but still the first pass doesn't quite clear the mesh, the second pass does. No need to P/F/P. I also have mixed true metallic powders into clears and pushed them through 355, but they don't look quite right on cloth, fine on hard surfaces though. The 110s gives a good sparkle with the shimmers. Someone mentioned glitter, and we use a 36 for that...
Steve
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I also prefer the Wilflex Shimmers. 110s... always make sure there is plenty of ink in the screens.
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For true metallics nothing beats the WF Liquid Silver and Liquid gold. Pricey but shiny. The silver is a better product though. Works well on higher mesh counts.
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But all true metallics made with powder that I have seen eventually tarnish.
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I'm doing a job on black shirts tonight. The customer wants a metallic gold (similar to New Orleans Saints gold).
I've blended about three parts silver shimmer and one part gold shimmer.... I think it's going to look good P/F/P.
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Andy you can minimize that with a top coat clear or eliminate it with a clear foil transfer overlay. I know; why not use silver foil? Same issue, tarnishing. Clear foil over silver ink is more durable.
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I use Wilflex Silver Shimmer, and also gold made with Silver and PC. We run it through a Sefar 123-55. One stroke, no PFP. (Now my little bitch. "Thin Threads" have been around many years. I've been using then in certain mesh counts for over 15 years. Someone finally decided to promote their benefits. It's not the new miracle mesh some make it out to be. Good mesh? Yes. New? Nope)
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I use Wilflex Silver Shimmer, and also gold made with Silver and PC. We run it through a Sefar 123-55. One stroke, no PFP. (Now my little bitch. "Thin Threads" have been around many years. I've been using then in certain mesh counts for over 15 years. Someone finally decided to promote their benefits. It's not the new miracle mesh some make it out to be. Good mesh? Yes. New? Nope)
Same here, I printed a huge job years ago with 4xx multifilament, fine threads, huge holes, great stencils. I figured out that the thin threads were the deal. In the search for something more durable, we went to Advance's Swiss yellow 60 mesh, with a 123 micron thread diameter. Then, 81SDE from Majestech, now Saati I think. Remember, there were no flash units yet...
Steve