TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Scobey Peterman on May 02, 2012, 12:33:51 PM
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I want to p/f/p Gold on royal 100% cotton shirts. Whose gold ink do you use??
Thanks.
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Wilflex Liquid Gold
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Agreed
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I need it to be school bus gold.
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Then Union Maxopaque gold
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WM Yellow Gold
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We use the union maxopaque... though I prefer a white underlay for longer runs, with 2 screens, but you'll get what you're looking for your way too...
Steve
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Union Maxopake Golden Yellow. It looks ok pfp but it looks better with a white UB.
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There was a thread on a long lost board where a rep. from Union mentioned that the Maxopaques were
really intended for getting opacity on small fine line left chest stuff and not full coverage areas.
(PS with a PC system and thickener you can make your own opaques)
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one stroke
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There was a thread on a long lost board where a rep. from Union mentioned that the Maxopaques were
really intended for getting opacity on small fine line left chest stuff and not full coverage areas.
(PS with a PC system and thickener you can make your own opaques)
we have used Wilflex Amazing Base with our PC system to get a nice opaque shade that wasnt available in the Union Maxopaque series.
Im going to try the thickener - i have about 4 gallons of Rutland thickener #10 i need to use up.
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I'm using pre-CPSIA IC HP Golden Yellow, and though I prefer an underbase, I p-f-p plenty of times.
Yellow, however, does not cover as well as one owuld hope, but good EOM helps a lot.
Not part of your question, but when I have to match a Pantone, or a vinyl with a Pantone number, I have used my Union Mixopake system.
Last time, with Sun Yellow Easy Weed film from Siser (their redder Golden Yellow), I just added 1% Mixopake Red y/s to my IC.
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There was a thread on a long lost board where a rep. from Union mentioned that the Maxopaques were
really intended for getting opacity on small fine line left chest stuff and not full coverage areas.
(PS with a PC system and thickener you can make your own opaques)
we have used Wilflex Amazing Base with our PC system to get a nice opaque shade that wasnt available in the Union Maxopaque series.
Im going to try the thickener - i have about 4 gallons of Rutland thickener #10 i need to use up.
Only familiar with the powdered stuff (Cab-O-Sil so they tell me) so don't come a gunnin' for me if the liquid
doesn't perform as intended!
Works for making HD's as well. Neat stuff.
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Union Maxopake Golden Yellow. It looks ok pfp but it looks better with a white UB.
Yellow is one ink I print alot (and hate) i would strongly suggest an underbase. You can get away with it but with the underbase the color is perfect every time.
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thats the color of my logo and it looks best with pms 1235 with white underbase or sericol discharge yellow rs.
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WFX Epic Gold Shimmer
...but it's not school bus yeller more of a bronzy yellow. We would have to add some pc bright yellow to get there or add that pigment to the silver perhaps.
I've had just about 100% success double stroking darks with most metallics without a flash using a thick stencil on wide open mesh like a 90/71 or something of that nature and a slightly lower success rate doing it on less open meshes. If you have a mesh that has opening naturally wide enough to pass the particles you'll get it every time but not all art can be held on such screens of course which is where a UB is sometimes needed. It helps to color your UB similar to the top metallic color and hold the finer details and then use the same art on the top glitter screen and just see what you get to resolve. I've used that trick a few times for heart prints involving metallics and finer details.
eb and others, 2 ?s on using the cabo:
- WFX has a "Particle Base" that I was hoping to pickup and use with PCs and the flakes of my choice to make all varieties of colored metallics and pearlescents, any experience there?
- I've noted that when adding cabosil to our dark flavored bucket 'o scrap ink, which we use for printing our private label transfers and often is too runny to hold detail on the trans paper due to the use of fashion and soft hand bases in the ink scraps, that the ink gets all 'gloppy' rather then thicker. This is really the best I can describe it, it gives the ink this really bad characteristic where it 'glops' off the ink knife rather than gaining body, which is what I want. It does work okay in 'normal' bases but I'm scared to use it a lot after seeing this glop going on. I do use it with reckless abandon in wb inks however with great success.