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screen printing => Newbie => Topic started by: Gilligan on May 15, 2012, 05:05:06 PM
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This one is pretty simple and basic.
My questions is, which should I print first black or white? Choke/trap which way and is that a problem when doing wet on wet?
These are going on some dri-fit t-shirts T473's and I don't think I'll need to under base them and I'm hoping to not PFP.
Oh shizzle, this did just get more complicated... This will be Maroon. What white ink should I use... bleed will be a problem won't it?
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I would print black first, then ploy white, flash then poly white again. On maroon, put choke the white or black back .5pt, you will never see the maroon between the 2 colors, but you will really notice it if the white and black are smeared together.
Use a low build black, some build up like crazy, others don't.
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pfpf the white and then black butt registration screw trapping and choking. tight screens and a tight press
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I would print black first, then ploy white, flash then poly white again. On maroon, put choke the white or black back .5pt, you will never see the maroon between the 2 colors, but you will really notice it if the white and black are smeared together.
Use a low build black, some build up like crazy, others don't.
That's how I'd do it.
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So wait... choke what how where? You said white OR black but then you mentioned smear.
Do you mean give it a .5 pt gap?
This print will be small it's a left chest.
Man, I just realized I didn't even post the damn image... boy I'm good like that. Sure no one needs a computer "expert" around here? ;)
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I'd do nut to butt registration on that.
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you can leave a slight gap because you will never see a small maroon outline between the black and white.
I would not PFPF the white, that is an extra flash in there that is unnecessary.
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Here is another option. Not the best way to do it but if your press is a little sloppy may be the way to go. Print the white as an underbase for the black and the white of the design. Flash, print white again with same screen, flash then print black on top of the white.
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If it's a short run I'd do a small trap and flash the black as well as the white. The small amount of additional time for the flash (on a short run) will make the job faster to register. If it's a long run I'd choke the black .5 (resulting in a .25 pt gap) and print the black first.
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On poly garments it can look strange to have one color (the black in this case) right on the garment
and the white high and possibly glossy. Not that anyone except us t-shirt nerds would ever notice but
these things keep me awake at night.
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On poly garments it can look strange to have one color (the black in this case) right on the garment
and the white high and possibly glossy.
This is true...Might be better to overprint black in this case. This is a good example of the fact that every job is different. Fabric, design, ink coverage, etc. etc. can vary so much that there is never one correct way to do something.
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flashing black on a drifit is asking for trouble. the black will burn a hole in the shirt before it will flash. IMO! just sayin. I would never flash black on a drifit shirt.
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Standard procedure for us is to use a gutter between the black and the white because there is always the possibility for shrinkage from the flash. We have no problem flashing 100% poly using the best times and dwell its a non issue and gives the best results.
I use gutters all the time it helps with edge crispness especially when doing multiple top colors over a white underbase any where the colors but reg.
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huh, if it burns a hole in the garment to flash it, how can you cure it?
it doesn't need to flash, only the white does, putting the black before the white will eliminate an extra flash
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I never have printed on those type of garments
but I imagine is like printing on nylon jerseys
even if the press can hold tight regis
i would allow for a small gap between black and white plates
thus avoiding possible color contamination or bleeding into each other
just a thought
Gabe
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I have never heard of black burning a hole through the shirt, if anything it will probably take longer to gel the white than black since white reflects radiation.
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I've done one color black on these before and sent them down the dryer like everything else without any issues.
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I've done two and three color jobs on dry fit and one had an underbase, no issues and print like butter.
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i really like the way poly prints, it just tends to shift more, so use a little extra tack
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they print great, I have no problems, but my quartz is WAY hotter than my dryer, thats why I dont flash black ink. Only black for some reason will smoke up my entire shop. No problems with the dyer at all. I had the same problem at another shop I worked at. So I just dont do it.
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Not sure of your flash but on our we lower the intensity and increase the height a bit other than that Poly shirts are the nicest looking prints we can get i love them. Just need to be very careful with the tack situation they will shrink a bit from the flash hence why i prefer gutters which compensate a lot of times with the shrinkage.
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how about using one of those AIR FLASHES would it fix all the problems
mention a above
i wish i had one
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You mean a flash with air?
I got that... Antec's top flash with auto base... I love it.
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The reason I would flash the black is to get a cleaner line where the white traps to it. I would only set the job up this way if it was a relatively short press run.
With a small amount of trap, you can register the job in no time, and then flashing all the colors keeps it looking crisp. The amount of time you save on the registration process makes up for the extra time for the extra flash (on a short press run).
The cure temperature for ink is about 100 degrees hotter than the flash temp. If flashing causes it to burn a hole in the shirt, it's really going to burn in the dryer. I've never seen this happen with any kind of fabric...
As someone pointed out though, printing black directly on polyester might look a little funky next to the opaque white. Might look nicer to overprint it in this case.