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screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: Denis Kolar on June 13, 2012, 12:41:48 PM
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As most of you know, 40-1K is a exposure with the overhead light source (Light above the vacuum frame).
Every time I turn on the vacuum and when the sucking is almost done, I hear a loud clank of the frame hitting the glass.
Is that normal?
I believe that the mentioned issue is not possible for an exposure unit with the light below the vacuum table due to the frame already touching the glass.
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fairly normal, it will hit the glass as it's pulled up, but it shouldn't be that loud. Did you notice it with statics? Try one out and see.
Do you need another 40-1K? ;)
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I'd say that the amount of "clang" depends how much sag there is in the blanket and the thickness of the frames.
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No clang with the statics and no need for another one :) thank you
It might not be too loud, but it concerned me enough to ask the question.
Andy, sag does not matter. Vacuum is not that fast, it basically happens just before it gets fully tight and when it is almost done drawing air from the blanket.
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The newman's aren't level, take 4' level find the most level spot on the floor using criss cross (X) method, level up the frame with left over squeegee's piece push down on low corners.
Is what sounds like to me.
Shane
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In units where the screen is sitting on top of the glass, the blanket conforms to the shape of the screen as it comes down against it. In this unit the screen is sitting on a moving surface (the blanket). I am guessing that it could be that as the vacuum is created the screen may not come up evenly all around, which could create a side or corner coming up at the last minute and creating a snap as it hits the glass??
Ron Hopkins
NuArc Sales Mgr.
M&R Sales and Service
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The newman's aren't level, take 4' level find the most level spot on the floor using criss cross (X) method, level up the frame with left over squeegee's piece push down on low corners.
Is what sounds like to me.
Shane
What he said. I've had it happen a couple of times on a MSP3140. Frames weren't leveled.
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Yeah, don't use racked frames on yer glass.
If it is a smaller, single screen sized, expo unit use the glass as your standard of 'flatness'. Don't use the floor. The glass is the only thing you can't really level or change without stressing it out, the rest can be adjusted somewhat. Next, parallel the rest of your gear to the glass. Take a loose roller frame, set it flat to the glass and snug it up good. Check all four corners, attempting to rock the frame back and forth on the diagonal for any rack and make sure there is none. Take the 'flat frame' and level your stretching table and press to this guy. On your stretch table, don't let a racked frame leave it, period. There's a couple easy tricks to keeping the flat and flattening them out if they are racked after tightening.
The other sound you might be hearing is the shur-loc panels plastic rod snapping into the channel. This happens sometimes on newly loaded rollers. It spooked the hell out of me first time I heard it but is pretty much harmless, the panel rods just tend to get unseated a little and pop backin under pressure, shouldn't damage the mesh if it happens.
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+1 the level comments, for sure. After a retension, they go on the glass to double check level.
Keep an eye out for Formica countertops that are getting scrapped. It's unlikely you'll have to pay for it, and the couple I've used for stretching were quite level.
I've been looking for a very cheap/free chunk of plate steel or granite countertop for years... but no dice. >:(
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Any of you know the difference between the 40-1K and the 40-1KS?
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After a retension, they go on the glass to double check level.
Your stretch table should be level to your glass, no need to take it to the glass to remove it. Theres a leveling pad on the roller master for this but, if you are sans roller master... I believe most people stretch manually with the wrench with the four corners of the screen elevated right? Well, dedicate a countertop, any will do really and make it so you can shim or somehow adjust the level of those four corners that elevate the screen. Then match your stretching table to the flat frame. This could be as sim as using four pieces of old squeegee blade and shimming one of them with thin strips of material.
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Any of you know the difference between the 40-1K and the 40-1KS?
I believe that the S stands for Screen Print. That one has deeper blanked to accommodate screen printing frames.
When I contacted Nuarc (M&R) about it, they wanted to make sure I have the one with beeper blanked that was meant to be used for screen printing frames.
Other ones are made for plates and have much shallower blanket.
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Everybody, thanks for the insights, I will have to make sure that my stretching "device" is as leveled as possible.
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There were three different sizes of the 1K series units (26-1K, 32-1K and 40-1K). The 40-1K had a Mercury Vapor lamp, the 40-1KSP was a screen print version of the same unit, difference being the style of blanket. Then came the 40-1KS (the S was for Super, as this unit had a Metal Halide lamp which was much faster than the older Mercury Vapor models). There was a 40-1KS Litho unit, and the 40-1KSSP which was the Metal Halide version of the Screen Print unit. If in doubt on a particular model check the serial number, because the control panel nameplate did not show the SP for Screen Print.
Ron Hopkins
Domestic NuArc Sales Manager
M&R Sales and Service Co.
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I'm still mad at myself :) I guess I jinxed myself with this post.
Last night, I was exposing a few screens so I could have them ready for tonight.
Luckily it happened on the last one, I dropped the wrench on the glass and glass cracked. I was able to expose it to the end (with an extra burst exposed from the cracks) and I will be able to use it. Extra lines were not going through the design.
My question is:
Should I ask for some kind of special glass or I can get a regular glass that does not have any anti-UV properties? And, does anyone know exact needed dimension for the glass. I can measure but I was wandering if there was a standard measurement.
Again, it is Nuarc 40-1K made in the late 1990
Thanks
Thanks
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Now I see why everybody raves about M&R customer service and support :)
Thank you Ron for getting back to me with the dimensions and specs.
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+1 the level comments, for sure. After a retension, they go on the glass to double check level.
Keep an eye out for Formica countertops that are getting scrapped. It's unlikely you'll have to pay for it, and the couple I've used for stretching were quite level.
I've been looking for a very cheap/free chunk of plate steel or granite countertop for years... but no dice. >:(
You can make a torsion box from wood that will be just as flat and you can pick it up and slide it under the table when you're done with it or just build a base of it and you have a great table as well.
Double check you bolt torque and that will help post stretch rack as well.
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I've been looking for a very cheap/free chunk of plate steel or granite countertop for years... but no dice. >:(
I suppose its unlikely that you would be near san diego, ca? ;)
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Do what I did - go to the local marble counter top place and ask for a scrap piece of 1" thick marble a couple inches bigger than your outside frame dimensions. I think I paid $5.
Best surface for flattening roller frames aside from a Roller Master table.
And it looks classy.
(http://evonoche.com/evoscreenprinting/5.jpg)
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I guess I've been too busy lately, the last bit of this thread went right under my radar--thanks for the suggestions guys.
J-A torsion box would be a fun project. I'll probably rebuild the top of the table I'm using now as such if I don't stumble across anything cheap and heavy duty--between orders, riding, and trying to homebrew (actual brew,) haven't had much time to homebrew shop stuff lately. The table I use is pretty good, it's only really off when I push the tension with low mesh on M3's.
Nick-Yeah...Probably about as unlikely as you being near Denver. ;)
Evo--this is what I was envisioning. I have been going by the re-source center looking for this stuff, never even crossed my mind that a three foot section would be 'scrap', but to them I suppose it is. Indeed, it does look classy. :)
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haha yeah i figured as much, but even still, if you do ever make it this way, ive got a piece of granite here, id even cut it to size for ya. ;)