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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Gilligan on July 25, 2012, 07:12:52 PM
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Here is a shirt we are doing... why not go big right? *sigh*
We have 260 of these to do with about 30 of them that I have to do tomorrow (yes, I'm charging a rush fee).
How would you guys suggest I print this.
I'm thinking Blue and Yellow last due to the ribbon part. I'm also thinking about making a jig to let the collar fall in so I'm not printing over it... coroplast tapped on the platten?
Oh, and does everyone think I can get away WOW for all 5 colors?
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i printed one just like this but the medal was gold metallic, no problems, no jigs. worked great.
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standard on whites is lightest to darkest and smallest to largest ink area.
So in this design I would do.
Small area
green
red
black
larger area
blue
yellow (I like to print strokes of an area after the fill)
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I'm also thinking of a small "trap" (is that the right term?) where the circles touch and on the ribbon so I don't get "blending"... maybe .25 of a point as .5 of a point might be too much?
Antec Legend 6/4 with some rather loose screens.
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I'm also thinking of a small "trap" (is that the right term?) where the circles touch and on the ribbon so I don't get "blending"... maybe .25 of a point as .5 of a point might be too much?
Antec Legend 6/4 with some rather loose screens.
You don't want to "trap" a color under another. What you want is a "gutter" between them, especially if your inks aren't great for WOW and/or your screens aren't really high tension
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Just better hope the "Trademark Police" do not catch up with you....
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At least it's not rings (and not gay) Maybe they'l let it go, even if they see it.
But the commercial use of a near Olympic logo is a little risky. They are some uptight folks!
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1 Yellow
2 Green
3 Red
4 Blue
5 Black
I'd not worry about the Olympic committee. They are in Honduras gettings our revised uniforms done. Besides, this is vaguely connected to olympics. The only thing they could say, is to take the word off. The rings aren't rings at all. They are filled circles with hands. That's the only two possible connections and like I said, I'd take off the word Olympics, But thats just me. I'm not a lawyers and do no play one on the internet. I will say tho, they do like going after people.
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1 Yellow
2 Green
3 Red
4 Blue
5 Black
Dan can you explain your order? why that order.
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How do you guys acheive your gutter? I put a 1/2 pt outline of the shirt color around the colors that touch. Is that right?
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manualy I would print the ribbon with a small squeegie , one side then the other , semi pita but better than build up from the collar.
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Yeah, this customer does like to push the envelope on what they ask us to print and we often have to reel them in a bit. I felt like you on this Don... they are not rings... just kind of similar... but the word could come off to solidify that.
Gerry, I haven't played with it yet, but I usually do an offset path to trap stuff... which this isn't what I'd be doing here exactly so maybe an outline or a .25 stroke on those touching parts that way it's even. .25 point stroke makes it .5 where they touch technically (if I'm thinking this through right.) About to start playing with it in a little while as I'm at the in-laws with too much time to kill and I need to get the films outputted tomorrow AM so I can get printing ASAP!
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manuly I would print the ribbon with a small squeegie , one side then the other
I kind of thought about that but I'm not sure how I join that in with the rest of the design... that yellow flows right into the "medal".
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manuly I would print the ribbon with a small squeegie , one side then the other
I kind of thought about that but I'm not sure how I join that in with the rest of the design... that yellow flows right into the "medal".
True that... I would make a jig then for the collar to sink into, might be worth the extra set up rather than fighting build up unless these are thin fashion shirts.
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Umm... PC61's
Would a jig made out of corolplast work?
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Umm... PC61's
Would a jig made out of corolplast work?
If your not flashing yes other wise no.
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If your using wooden plattens hack em up and make new ones later?
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1 Yellow
2 Green
3 Red
4 Blue
5 Black
Dan can you explain your order? why that order.
Here is my theory on this print order.
1st, the Yellow is not only the lightest color, but such that if picked up from the subsequent screens, it won't show all that much due to it's luminescence against the white Ya dig?.
2, Having the other colors run over this yellow, does pick up some and should remove the excess yellow that might smear with the blue.
3, In ALL cases when yellow is very close to blue, (except for actually attempting to create a green), we have always tried to keep the blue and green as fer away from each other as they do not play well together. If they kiss, you got trouble. Having them last and printing one right after the other, causes some boogering where as if'n the yellow is up front, it gets it's smear factor taken away.
As a side note, I'd try to get away with changing that yellow to a gold. Like a 115 or 122 Something with some more red in it. That lemon yellow gets lost against the white.
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These colors are not our pantone corrected colors... I'm using Union Golden Yellow (they wife just creates, she doesn't care what colors I have on the shelf. ;) )
My only issue with running the blue and yellow "first" is because the strokes beyond that would have to go the entire length of the print or it would make odd lines where I start the squeegee for say black or green... I am on a manual.
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I would print it as Dan said. Except I would get rid of the yellow outline around the ribbon and change it to black. I know your on a manual but I would flash it on the auto between the yellow and blue. They will mix eventually and you will get some green where they touch. Use good tight screens and this should be a piece of cake.
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I'd go with Masonite (or some other generic hardboard,) it's still cheap as hell, very flat, and will hold up well for many years if you don't get it wet. You also won't get corrugated patterns with it if you print a light ink on a darker shirt. :)
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I'd go with Masonite (or some other generic hardboard,) it's still cheap as hell, very flat, and will hold up well for many years if you don't get it wet. You also won't get corrugated patterns with it if you print a light ink on a darker shirt. :)
Hmm... given more time I'd probably do that. I like it!
For this I have to just get it done and get it done TODAY... luckily it's white shirts and I'll obviously put the flutes running front to back and use low pressure. This will be basically a throw away jig just to get the job done. Sadly I bought some white panel board just day before yesterday to make a large 7 x 4 white board for the wall. I could have picked up just what I needed if I'd have only known I needed it that day. LOL
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I use a lot of PVC foam, (placemats from Target) to make specialized board rubbers.
People with the big bucks and willingness to spend them (like you, Gilly lol), may want to invest in some neoprene or buna nitrile, to have around for this for its added durability.
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standard on whites is lightest to darkest and smallest to largest ink area.
So in this design I would do.
Small area
green
red
black
larger area
blue
yellow (I like to print strokes of an area after the fill)
THIS
When it comes to wow, smallest to largest works when other things don't. I don't much worry about lightest to darkest anymore, I used to but realized small to large works better for wow. I wouldn't do any choking or trapping and you're press will hold everything in registration so if you get mixing of inks then you're out of reg. If you don't mind flashing, print however you want, but you shouldn't have to flash anything on a white shirt. If you are using super opaque inks then you'll either have to flash if you print the yellow and blue first or risk having to stop and clean screens. If you're using good wow inks then you can probably print it whatever order you want without flashing.
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My two thoughts:
Not sure if coroplast will be the best to print over. I would even consider cuttting a cardboard box insteadA smoother surface would probably work much better.
Don't be afraid to flash. You shouldn't have to. But if there is an area that seems to overlap another color a hair or a certain color ink that does not work well with WOW, throw a flash in. Also, if you print it how Shawn mentioned, you can print one portion, flash, than hit the other to avoid the squeegee patterns in the ink.
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Well, printing manually so flashing will slow production down a bit and we are under the gun so I'm REALLY hoping to avoid having to lean on that.
Going down the flutes and not across them should avoid issues with the coroplast, I tried some cardboard and it didn't hold my textac very well. This will also be on white and those inks are pretty runny so it should go through with little pressure hoping to not deflect the coroplast much.
Alan, it SHOULD hold good registration but you know my screens are junk because I waste too much time on here vs stretching up my rollers. ;) Sadly I'm not even using the MZX or M3 on this job since 2 fantastic screens would gain much. I might be totally wrong on that... but we are rolling with it. BTW, we still suck at coating screens but that is due to us not having a good scoop coater, I looked at a buddy's and it's perfectly flat (he has two). So I'm gonna get another one when I order my, wait for it.... SECOND gallon of emulsion! Woot! BING BING BING <streamers and confetti everywhere> we ALMOST have gone through a gallon of emulsion. LOL So NEXT job maybe. LOL
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BTW, we still suck at coating screens
I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).
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BTW, we still suck at coating screens
I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).
Damn, is it that cheap per sheet now? What size sheet are that cheap? We have some screens with $1.50 worth of direct emulsion on them so cap film at that price would be a time saver. I like cap film but they weren't close in price back when I was looking into it, might have to revisit this.
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BTW, we still suck at coating screens
I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).
Damn, is it that cheap per sheet now? What size sheet are that cheap? We have some screens with $1.50 worth of direct emulsion on them so cap film at that price would be a time saver. I like cap film but they weren't close in price back when I was looking into it, might have to revisit this.
Ulano EZ film
15x17 at $1.47/ea
17x24 at $2.10/ea
I believe it is 48 micron. They also have a 30 micron available. I love the fact that as soon as my screens are reclaimed they are immediately re-coated. Plus it only takes me a couple of minutes to teach my part timer how to coat a perfect screen.
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Yeah I forgot about the ez films, not a bad price at all, but we just have to get better.
Just pulled screens to try and find two decent ones for the full part of the design and barely have that.... And.... They are still wet in the middle!!! We coated them 24 hours ago and had a fan running on the stack for about 6 hours, then covered then for the night. Now I have a fan blasting on them so I can get started!!
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Yeah I forgot about the ez films, not a bad price at all, but we just have to get better.
Just pulled screens to try and find two decent ones for the full part of the design and barely have that.... And.... They are still wet in the middle!!! We coated them 24 hours ago and had a fan running on the stack for about 6 hours, then covered then for the night. Now I have a fan blasting on them so I can get started!!
You need a dehumidifier....lol
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BTW, we still suck at coating screens
I'm a big fan of capillary film. Ulano EZ films work real nice and have a good price point ($1.47/sheet).
Damn, is it that cheap per sheet now? What size sheet are that cheap? We have some screens with $1.50 worth of direct emulsion on them so cap film at that price would be a time saver. I like cap film but they weren't close in price back when I was looking into it, might have to revisit this.
EZ Film always has been that cheap. I think Richard or maybe someone else explained that it was the backer material partially that drove the cost of cap film up previously. It sounds like they were just making all the cap film for very tight applications and most of the measures taken were actually unnecessary for us lowly shirt printers. So they savvied up and made a product just from garment printer. Chromaline's Magnacure was similar in approach though not quite as affordable and a DC not a PP. Still have some of that lying around, 38ยต, it's like five years old and still shoots somehow. Back then I made up a screwball custom size for our film so it was always super fresh.
We used the big sheets of EZ and it's cheaper or = to direct emulsion costs for Aquasol HVP, bought 4 gallons at a go. I think our cost per stencil for direct, counting the occasional glitter and shimmer screens and normal waste comes out to about $2 per screen on average. But you won't be getting the kind of eom out of EZ cap film that you are getting from the direct emulsion.
I still keep some around for when we're in a pinch on press, need screens and we don't have 'em. About an hour and we're back at it.
Ulano needs to get on the horse and make some that's about 2x as thick as what they are doing with the EZ. I presume the bulk of the cost of cap film is in the carrier sheet and process itself, not the actual emulsion.
Kevin, try some out, you won't be losing any money v. direct emulsion and the stuff excels in bad screen environments.
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Here is a shirt we are doing... why not go big right? *sigh*
We have 260 of these to do with about 30 of them that I have to do tomorrow (yes, I'm charging a rush fee).
How would you guys suggest I print this.
I'm thinking Blue and Yellow last due to the ribbon part. I'm also thinking about making a jig to let the collar fall in so I'm not printing over it... coroplast tapped on the platten?
Oh, and does everyone think I can get away WOW for all 5 colors?
I`m with you. I have to do 1000 tees by mid of August, 7 color job. That will be the first time I have tro tackle this kind of work on our new automatic. i`m sure I will be posting some question too before I start on that job.
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1 Yellow
2 Green
3 Red
4 Blue
5 Black
I'd not worry about the Olympic committee. They are in Honduras gettings our revised uniforms done. Besides, this is vaguely connected to olympics. The only thing they could say, is to take the word off. The rings aren't rings at all. They are filled circles with hands. That's the only two possible connections and like I said, I'd take off the word Olympics, But thats just me. I'm not a lawyers and do no play one on the internet. I will say tho, they do like going after people.
Gosh if you would be selling cock rings in the UK that are in the same colors as the Olympic rings they would probably shut you down and slap you with a juicy fine.