TSB
screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Homer on September 13, 2012, 10:51:30 PM
-
so what is the main difference in brands? I am assuming they are like ink manufacturers, some guys swear by one brand. I'm not really sure what makes a good squeegie. I'm not even sure what brands I have now, whatever Action fills their holders with. I'm starting to learn how important squeegie selection is over all the other variables, it seems to be equally important as mesh selection.
What about squeegie sharpeners, grinder or hot knife? I have read the grinders are nice, but not really the best choice. I really need to sharpen my blades, nothing beats a sharp squeegie. The hot knife sharpeners are rather expensive though, I think around the 6k range.
Tonypep, any squeegie sharpeners for sale in that pile of goodies?!
-
I normally use Serilor. I think theirs are more durable than Saati, but I could be making that up. They are also 2.5 times more expensive.
Most of the time I use a 75/95/75. I find it hard to get ink through a higher mesh count with a softer blade. Sometimes I will use a 60/95/60 through a 110 to dump down a ton of ink, depending on the job. I find that with overprints, the standard 75/95/75 does a great job.
-
I don't recommend squeegee sharpeners. Probably in the minority here but keep in mind that squeegee material is extruded. That means it sealed and not cut. Once that seal is compromised by abrasion that leaves the material vulnerable to attacking agents, mainly ink and solvents. Eventually this may result in warping and can also make the material more difficult to clean. Most commercially made units use expensive diamond bits; usually supplied in three grit sizes. You start with the roughest bit, slowly moving back and forth. By "slowly" I mean very slowly. Then moving on to the medium and fine bits repeating the process. Honestly the time spent performing this function could well be spent in a more profitable manner. I find it far better and less costly to replace the blade once it has wore out its purpose and more than paid for itself over time.
And yes I know many of you have made your own jigs for this but I stand by my premise nonetheless.
-
so what is the main difference in brands?
we use a variety of squeegees.
the one thing that ive noticed is that on the triple durometers- serilor has a thinner inside duromerter (xx/90/xx) than plieger.
-
Peter W sent me a P-Mail stating that to his knowledge squeegee blade is not always extruded but slit cut. I'm sure he is correct on this. Either way when that material is abraded I believe it is more exposed to abuse. Just an opinion of course, I'm not chastising anyone who chooses to do this.
We did have a Diamond Chase unit but sold it ys ago.
Thanks Peter
-
I agree Tony we have tried sharpening in the past and I never liked the texture it leaves behind, once sharpened they always seemed to go down hill rapidly from there.
-
so your saying that for the time to sharpen vs the benefits, it's just flat out better to drop in new blades. that's great info. I always wondered how a belt sander could make a pliable rubber compound sharp? I have a roll of straight 70 duro, I never used 70 so maybe I'll put that in a few holders and see what happens. One of my guys here used to work at New Buffalo, and he swears they only use single duro blades, never even heard of a triple. All I have are triples. I'm trying to compile a chart of when to use what squeegie, taking some trial and error but I think it will help with set up times. Thanks guys.
-
I've sharpened them, we have a cheap-o table top sharpener. It works ok, I am mixed on it. I think it's better to replace, but I have sharpened some and they work fine.
-
so what is the main difference in brands? I am assuming they are like ink manufacturers, some guys swear by one brand. I'm not really sure what makes a good squeegie. I'm not even sure what brands I have now, whatever Action fills their holders with. I'm starting to learn how important squeegie selection is over all the other variables, it seems to be equally important as mesh selection.
What about squeegie sharpeners, grinder or hot knife? I have read the grinders are nice, but not really the best choice. I really need to sharpen my blades, nothing beats a sharp squeegie. The hot knife sharpeners are rather expensive though, I think around the 6k range.
Tonypep, any squeegie sharpeners for sale in that pile of goodies?!
I have ordered direct from SAATI and they were nice to deal with, very helpful. They do make an extruded (molded) squeegee but it is more geared toward graphics printing (solvent resistance) as when I called to ask about the molded, she named a lot of durometers that weren't really beneficial to textiles or if they were they were over twice as much per roll.
I bought a roll of 65/90/65 cut edge and about 10 feet of the molded red V-squeegee 80 duro ($$$) and the V-squeegee rocks in my opinion for laying down thick whites on high EOM screens.
If I ordered again today I'd get a roll of 70/90/70 over the 65/90/65.
-
I have never had a issue with sharpening squeegies and wish i had a sharperner. Sharp squeegies can really make a difference and being able to touch them up regularly in my opinion takes out another variable day in and day out.
-
I have never had a issue with sharpening squeegies and wish i had a sharperner. Sharp squeegies can really make a difference and being able to touch them up regularly in my opinion takes out another variable day in and day out.
I noticed a device @ nazdar that is geared towards that Rick, it's not a sharpener, but a polisher. I really like the idea of popping the squeegie on a device and have a new sharp blade for every print but TP made a good point. I think I may get a roll of 70/90/70 and replace my blades. I have 60/90/60 and it's just too soft. we just put a 70 duro on this morning and so far, it's pretty nice. The sharp edge has a lot more to do with it than anything I bet. My blades are pretty rounded.
http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=4§ionID=119&subSectionID=73&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&catID=73&catTab=sub_section&productID=610 (http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=4§ionID=119&subSectionID=73&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&catID=73&catTab=sub_section&productID=610)
-
I've always bought Saati. I use the old Roger Jennings sandpaper method to keep some kind of an edge on it. Mostly straight 70 durometer, but I bought a roll of 70/90/70 that I'll load in my handles ( the aluminum ones from Saati also) whenever I get off my a$$. I hate cutting squeegees. There's no good way of getting through that stuff that I've found.
-
I think I've only used Serilor and Plieger and dammit, I can't remember which but I did like one better b/c it was, presumably from reading here, extruded. The bottom of the blade was smooth and this had less drag than the fuzzy feeling bottom on the other. It made a difference right off the roll but not as noticeable after some use between them.
I'm all for polishing regularly v. sharpening. Think about this- you are only contacting the leading edge of the blade. Why spend maintenance on the rest?
Keep that edge polished and crisp. Get a directional system going for all the squeegees. When it's done, flip the blade in the holder, marking the spent edge by scratching a mark into it on the upper portion of the blade. If yer careful with clamping the blade into the holder you can even flip it again, getting four brand new edges out of the blade. This works with everything but a wooden squeegee and it takes very little work or investment.
And yes, you need sharp blades. Anyone who says it doesn't matter, it's just t shirts, is kidding themselves. (you know we all have done it, maybe are doing it right now though)
Disclaimer- we're lazy and don't polish but I really want to start.
-
so Zoo, by polishing do you mean with a device similar to the one @ nazdar or with a DIY sandpaper jig? As of now, I'm stripping all the blade out and putting new in, in hopes of someday getting them sharpened and back in use. But as Tony mentioned, I may be farther ahead going the new route.
just from my simple trial and error the past few days, duro selection is way more important than I had ever thought.
-
so Zoo, by polishing do you mean with a device similar to the one @ nazdar or with a DIY sandpaper jig? As of now, I'm stripping all the blade out and putting new in, in hopes of someday getting them sharpened and back in use. But as Tony mentioned, I may be farther ahead going the new route.
just from my simple trial and error the past few days, duro selection is way more important than I had ever thought.
This guy you mean?
http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=0§ionID=0&subSectionID=0&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&searchtext=sharpener&catID=31&catTab=&productID=602 (http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=0§ionID=0&subSectionID=0&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&searchtext=sharpener&catID=31&catTab=&productID=602)
I think a built device would help keep it all straight and clean but, Encore, I think, even sells a hand polishing setup for flatstock printers who treat their edges by hand. I think a homebrew would be fine for this just make sure nobody screws it up and wrecks the edges rather than maintains them by using it.
I'm still big on specifying which edge is the current working edge of the blade and just rotating. I'd like to tighten that system down in our shop and add polishing after each run to that routine.
I could be totally wrong about all of this but it's the way it makes sense to me.
What makes almost more sense are something like this in the attached pic...unless the fiberglass backing piece costs more than a hunk of squeegee. You only use the part you need to make contact on the screen.
-
I'd love to see an edge cleaned up on one of those short-cuts with their (non-stock) 320 grit wheel--seems like everyone runs them with the 120 which leaves a good printing edge, but as tony mentioned, much more surface area, and much more susceptible to solvent attack.
I started cleaning up my manual blades with just a sanding block and 320 grit wet dry sandpaper with a bit of rubbing alcohol on it--works wonders for an aging blade, especially if you just wipe them down right away and don't have to use press wash on them. Although I'm still curious as to whether or not those fancy diamond hand polishers are worth the three hundred bucks or so they go for... anyone tried one?
-
The tech data for the manny and smilin' jack blades recommend this. Different duro, 75 for the manny, but can't be too crazy different from any other extruded blade right? There is ample mention in instructions of cleaning the blades and resting them away from ink or solvents nightly.
NO GRINDING/SLICING REQUIRED
Periodic Maintenance
1) Wet an emery cloth with WD-40 (or equivalent lubricant)
a. Emery cloth to be 600-1200 grit
b. Emery cloth grit to be selected/adjusted based on printing conditions
and indication of wear patterns over time
2) “Wet-sand” Manny with the wet cloth
I wouldn't mind just having two of those right angle hand polishing setups on a bench with high and the other with really high grit wet sand paper and some wd, seems pretty straight ahead and a nice, contemplative way to end the day- carefully honing your blades for tomorrow's battles...