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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: 3Deep on September 18, 2012, 04:30:43 PM
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Ok its not new, but to me it is cause I just found out what it does LOL, there's a function on my press that sez multiprint table move, which makes the table go up and down after a print or double stroke etc. The other day I turned it off and low and behold I could double stroke a print twice without the table going down and back up, now I really don't know all the benefit it is but it sure speeds things up just a little and I can pull shirts on a little faster without waiting for the table to come back up. I,m sure my press is not the only one that does this but would love know other benefits of using this mode.
Darryl
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number one benefit would be the table doesn't go down during a flash. You maybe able to flash for a shorter amount of time.
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...diamondback?
...be sure to switch back if you are doublestroking sleeves. The floodbar will attempt to run over that corner where the shoulder seam meets the sleeve, snag it, and break the mesh. Ask me how I know, or better yet, ask the three prized 150-s mesh screens i trashed before figuring this out... :'(
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Anatol machine....and thanks will remember that tip
Darryl
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Funny I just had my press dropping to flood for the first time Friday as I was experimenting with really hard flooding for 1 stroke printing, actually it was waiting to raise the platens until after the flood, but when I switched back to 2 prints it dropped the platens between the prints. Great for avoiding seams, hoody pockets and other floodbar grabbing, screen wrecking protuberances.
ps: "S" mesh now on order in the quest for 1 stroke printing, silly hard flood wasn't enough for that print.
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I don't want to derail the thread but I saw something about S threads and one hit attempts. The two don't necessarily go hand in hand. The theoritical ink volume TIV is another thing you want to look at when trying to choose a mesh for a "one hit" scenario, not thread thickness alone. A thicker thread mesh will put down more ink than a thinner thread, but you can print faster, and with less pressure and achieve a more opaque print by having the ink sitting on top of the shirt rather than partially in it with the thinner thread mesh. But if you are printing with too much pressure and too slow, thin threads won't matter at all and you'll get better results from thicker threads. And then the artwork and emulsion over mesh ratio will play a role as well. Good luck in your quest.
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Would love to hear more here:
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,4915.0.html (http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,4915.0.html)