TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Mark @ Hurricane Printing on March 25, 2013, 09:23:31 AM
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simple design...on the pocket...regular plastisol inks...no underbase...what mesh counts should I use?..im thinking 110's and 156's..maybe a 200 for the white...color shirts will be grey; blue and red...and maybe some yellows..not sure yet.
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I'm going to assume you are now (only) doing this sports gray right?
You should be good with the screens you mentioned. It kinda doesn't matter that much now since it's apparently the one color shirt. It's a small print (on top of a pocket) so a soft hand is not a major factor. Any medium to low mesh will work but I wouldn't go extremely low.
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I'm going to assume you are now (only) doing this sports gray right?
You should be good with the screens you mentioned. It kinda doesn't matter that much now since it's apparently the one color shirt. It's a small print (on top of a pocket) so a soft hand is not a major factor. Any medium to low mesh will work but I wouldn't go extremely low.
shirts will be grey, red and blue..and MAYBE some yellows.
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I'm going to assume you are now (only) doing this sports gray right?
You should be good with the screens you mentioned. It kinda doesn't matter that much now since it's apparently the one color shirt. It's a small print (on top of a pocket) so a soft hand is not a major factor. Any medium to low mesh will work but I wouldn't go extremely low.
shirts will be grey, red and blue..and MAYBE some yellows.
OK, Just gotta ask, what are you going to do to the art on the red and blue shirts to define the red & blue printed ink? It will appear to be low/no contrast on those colors. Am I missing something......?
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I'm going to assume you are now (only) doing this sports gray right?
You should be good with the screens you mentioned. It kinda doesn't matter that much now since it's apparently the one color shirt. It's a small print (on top of a pocket) so a soft hand is not a major factor. Any medium to low mesh will work but I wouldn't go extremely low.
shirts will be grey, red and blue..and MAYBE some yellows.
OK, Just gotta ask, what are you going to do to the art on the red and blue shirts to define the red & blue printed ink? It will appear to be low/no contrast on those colors. Am I missing something......?
I was going to block out the red on red shirts and block out blue on blue shirts.....The black you see in the picture will outline the letters entirely...I know in the pic posted its just around the little house image...but its been revised to outline the letters completely.
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So what you really have, is a continuation of this original post of the same art.
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,7446.msg76051.html#msg76051 (http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,7446.msg76051.html#msg76051)
Same questions and answers apply.
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So what you really have, is a continuation of this original post of the same art.
[url]http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,7446.msg76051.html#msg76051[/url] ([url]http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,7446.msg76051.html#msg76051[/url])
Same questions and answers apply.
yeah...but this one was specifically about mesh counts haha..so i figured id make a new one...redundant? yeah probably so....but i went with it.
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If making an underbase plate is the only thing keeping you from using one on this job,and you have CorelDRAW, it isn't a big deal.
It will make your job easier and nicer, even if you have to eat the expense.
Then, on my manual, I would probably use
UB-156
flash
red-200
blue200
flash
Highlight white 160
flash
black 230
This is a great example of how involved a "simple" job can be (if only the customers understood and appreciated that. eh?)
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Red-205
Blue-205
Black-205-230
Flash
White-135 to150 S thread
That's just one of many different ways to do it. Those 205's are workhorses at our shop. Light colored garments with dark inks, 205, top colors on underbases...205, sim process underbase...205, etc. They are one of the only regular thread mesh counts that we use now days. I prefer the thin threads for most everything but the trusty 205 still has it's place.
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Royal in particular (at least all of the brands we've used) is pretty transparent and relies on a light
ground to appear, well, royal. I'd think without a base you'll see the heathering through the ink.
That said, Sport Grey is one of those colors where a one hit white is typically fine. So what we'd
do:
230 Black
180 White
Flash
230 Red
180 Blue
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I'd probably do what EB has suggested, maybe a 156 on the white. Since the white is totally surrounded by darker colours it should still pop pretty well without a highlight white
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Royal in particular (at least all of the brands we've used) is pretty transparent and relies on a light
ground to appear, well, royal. I'd think without a base you'll see the heathering through the ink.
That said, Sport Grey is one of those colors where a one hit white is typically fine. So what we'd
do:
230 Black
180 White
Flash
230 Red
180 Blue
Printing the black first as in this example is something many people do not try, it saves time, money and often an additional flash. Makes great $ense.
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I remember the first time I printed black first...it was on this guy...
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ-xfUqlgQJjQg5tUqrDsvb_l2PLfld_ZVzIWuRIO4JTuLOcjysvg)
Ash gray tees, no flesh tones. Worked great.
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Royal in particular (at least all of the brands we've used) is pretty transparent and relies on a light
ground to appear, well, royal. I'd think without a base you'll see the heathering through the ink.
That said, Sport Grey is one of those colors where a one hit white is typically fine. So what we'd
do:
230 Black
180 White
Flash
230 Red
180 Blue
Printing the black first as in this example is something many people do not try, it saves time, money and often an additional flash. Makes great $ense.
we don't do that ever because flashing black ink along with white would make the black burn through the shirt
might only be a quartz flash issue though
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we don't do that ever because flashing black ink along with white would make the black burn through the shirt
might only be a quartz flash issue though
Say wha....?
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Hmm we have two qtz flashes on each auto, first ones always in head three for flashing black (and other reasons)........never ever heard of this
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we don't do that ever because flashing black ink along with white would make the black burn through the shirt
might only be a quartz flash issue though
Say wha....?
On polyester, by the time white has flashed the black can have absorbed enough heat to melt the shirt. I have a few examples of this kicking around the shop.
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Wait, yep, %100 polyester, the Sportek ST700's, we had that happen a few weeks back.
Never seen it on cotton though. Both our presses have two heads before the flash station.
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Ahhhh................don't print poly here.