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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: mooseman on June 22, 2013, 06:13:23 PM
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The other day I thought I could smell an electrical burn, you know, it smells different than regular combustion .
Thought it was coming from the DC drive on my dryer, tear down inspection....nothing there.
Didn't really think it was in the control panel but tear down inspection....nothing there.
Ok it must be the element, pulled the unit away from the wall to get to the plug and there it was.
Five years of faithful service and then one day it's over...this baby was FRIED.
Why it decided to go to hell after so long is a ?.
The plug was fully installed until I touched it then it basically fell apart.
mooseman
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I just pre-emptively changed a locking NEMA connector that was starting to smell funny this last spring. Phenolic was starting to discolor, and the contacts were oxidized and getting carbon on them from arcing. From the looks of it, kept getting plugged in but not locked, so it wiggled around.
Is it really close to rated power? If it gets carbon on the contacts, resistance goes up, heat goes up, more carbon forms, etc.
For an easy math example, If you have a 3300W panel on 220 with a 15A plug, it may sound OK on paper, but you're in for problems...
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the first place I check is the plug.
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And/or the outlet.
I once had an outlet smoldering.
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Am I the only one to ask -
You had that on an extension cord?
My (old) Vastex is connected from unit to wall (lock-turn big socket) using a short run of 10 gauge flexible insulated wire from an electric supply. And the wall plug back to the breaker is 10 gauge romax. It's just me, but that extension plug would not give me a warm and fuzzy for the expected amp pull. Sorry Mike.
P.S. Luck was really on your side it didn't start a fire. Say a few Hail Mary's, lol.
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Nema 5-20 ?
RT Screen Designs
www.rtscreendesigns.com
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I don't think so. Got it from electric supply company and looks more like this
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Pass-And-Seymour-L1420PCCV3-20-Amp-Black-And-White-4-Wire-Plug-u765936.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=CL2CuM_k-rcCFWdo7Aod6XwALA (http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Pass-And-Seymour-L1420PCCV3-20-Amp-Black-And-White-4-Wire-Plug-u765936.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=CL2CuM_k-rcCFWdo7Aod6XwALA)
And the matching wall plug required a double stacked octagon box to hold it comfortably.
I do my own wiring. Not an electrician, but been doing it like that for over 40 years. I do it to code and check with people as far as what I need to do on the specialty situations. I've got a great electric supply counter locally that really helps me out when I need information.
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A 6-20, 20a two pole three wire twist lock will work but I would move up to a 6-30, 30a two pole three wire. A little bigger blade area for better contact. That is what I use on our two Vastex flashes and seems to hold up well.
Same thing has happened to me in the past.
Just something I do is for the first couple of months after making a electrical connection drawing some amps ill go back and re tighten the screws every couple of weeks until they won't tighten any more. Then every year when we shut down between Christmass and New Years I go back and check all the connections on every thing. Solid copper isn't so bad but stranded will loosen quite a bit.
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You joining ground and neutral on the Vastex dryers?
The instructions to my old one I have says not to do that so I am running 4 wires.
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Geez never read the instructions maybe after 6 years I should. the set up was a 10 ga wire from a breaker box about 10 foot long the set up you saw in the pics.
Guess I should read the instructions maybe tomorrow :o
mooseman
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Dryer or flash?
Both the flashes are 220vac, two hot legs and a ground. no need for a neutral. I have plugs mounted on the wall with 25' cords so they can be moved around. The swing units are 120vac needing only a regular outlet.
The Vastex dyer is single phase 220vac hard wired through conduit with 36" of Seal tight flexible conduit at the dryer end. Two hot, neutral and a ground.
Maxi Cure three phase 220vac has a 50' long SO cord powering it with an outlet on the wall. That's wired three hots and a ground.
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All of my posts were for an old dryer - Vastex Econored II. Don't have a Vastex flash - Workhorse brand.
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My bad mis read the post, sorry. Yes you do need a three pole four wire plug. But 20a is enough for the dryer? Mines a 54" Econored II name plate data 60 amps.
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Just as rule, we up runs to one size over required. Plugs get same treatment. Prefer 3 phase, but have single especially in screen room.
We never use the hardware dryer extensions. Had issues over the years. Wire up with correct wire and pay for plugs. Got an air flash used, and guy used that extension, already saw arc marks.
Grainger book has section with plug codes. Good reference manual.
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My bad mis read the post, sorry. Yes you do need a three pole four wire plug. But 20a is enough for the dryer? Mines a 54" Econored II name plate data 60 amps.
Not sure about 20, I didn't say that. Did Mike? I'd have to walk out to the breaker box to look, but I think mine is on a 50 amp circuit.
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50 is about right.
Mooseman's plug was a 20a , NEMA 6-20
You posted a link for a 20a NEMA L14-20
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Ah, lol, I was just posting a pic based on the pins. Never looked at the load rating. My bad. :-[