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Artist => General Art Discussions => Topic started by: Mark @ Hurricane Printing on July 25, 2013, 10:53:33 PM
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(I am having trouble getting this thread to post...so if it comes up more than once I am sorry because this is my 4th time trying to get this thread to post and from my end its not going thru and I am within the boundaries of images sizes)
I have a manual press (chameleon 8/8 with side air clamps). I landed an order for 140 shirts. Full front (superman S) and full back., youth small to adult XL. Black shirts and plastisol ink colors are red; white; yellow. An underbase will be required of course but should I also use a highlight white for the white in the image? I am thinking yes. Doing 2 underbase passes would be too much ink on the shirt to make the white in the image POP with all the other colors it will have that bullet proof effect. This is what I am thinking:
I have a youth pallet (and will order 3 more for this job)...the youth pallet is 12" wide so I will make only one set of screens to accommodate the youth pallet and use those same screens for ALL sizes up to the adult XL. I have verified this with the client.
Front:
3 screens (underbase 156 mesh; red 200 mesh; highlight white 200 mesh)
Back:
4 screens ( (underbase 156 mesh; red 200 mesh; yellow 200 mesh; highlight white 200 mesh)
Am I on the right track? Please tell me if I am using wrong mesh sizes or anything.
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I rarely use a highlight white. I know. I'm the oddball.
Two strokes on the underbase white and flash. But.....where white is to be solid, that is 100% image (solid). The white under other colors is only at about 50-60% as a halftone. Just enough to handle the opacity for the top colors.
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I just finished a similar job and used 230s for everything underbase, maroon, yellow, green and hilite white on black shirts. After finishing I think the top colors could have easily gone thru a 280-305. The final print thru the 230s was a bit heavy but not bad at all.
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Over here we would probably discharge it but if plastiol it would be:
150s underbase
flash
230s or 310s depending on what screens we had available for the rest
yellow
red
flash
highlight white
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Over here we would probably discharge it but if plastiol it would be:
150s underbase
flash
230s or 310s depending on what screens we had available for the rest
yellow
red
flash
highlight white
why would you flash after the red? is it because the red and white touch?
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we would run similar to 123, we always flash before highlite white...this design screams discharge. have you ever messed with it? 140 shirts may not be the best place to start messing with it.
just outta curiosity, how did you price the job?
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we would run similar to 123, we always flash before highlite white...this design screams discharge. have you ever messed with it? 140 shirts may not be the best place to start messing with it.
just outta curiosity, how did you price the job?
i have never messed with discharge print. I do not have the dryer for it. I have an OLD 8ft econored infrared dryer....without the airflow needed for discharge printing. From what i understand the ariflow isnt mandatory to have but it is extremely beneficial to have for discharge printing.
here is the pricing for a contract job...im showing the pricing of 120 shirts because thats what was originally ordered.
4 color back (underbase;red;yellow;highlight white), 3 color front (underbase; red; highlight white): $3.50 per shirt x 120 = $420.00
2 flashes (one for back underbase, one for front underbase): .70 x 120 = $84
7 screens $140
TOTAL ESTIMATE: $644.00
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raise your price, that's too cheap!
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He did say contract. I assume that is printing price only and does not include supplying the garment.
Those prices seem in line with lots of contract (including ours).
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raise your price, that's too cheap!
its contract printing....i do nothing but print...they deliver the shirts to me tuesday.
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that's good then.
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The reason you would flash after red is because of the pickup the highlight screen will do to the red and the red will blur after a few prints, I would say you could use a halftone white base for the top colors, but that will make the top colors look somewhat funky and textured instead of a nice smooth print. Your on the right track doing it how your doing them, but being on a manual you could do discharge with that dryer you have, yes there is the proper way , but then there's a way LOL
Darryl
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i have never messed with discharge print. I do not have the dryer for it. I have an OLD 8ft econored infrared dryer....without the airflow needed for discharge printing. From what i understand the ariflow isnt mandatory to have but it is extremely beneficial to have for discharge printing.
I've dabbled with discharge and have the same "old" econored dryer. 8 foot with 2 elements. It works in that dryer, but have to slow it way down to evaporate the water. As long as no extreme hurry, I'd give it a try sometime.
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I rarely use a highlight white. I know. I'm the oddball.
Two strokes on the underbase white and flash. But.....where white is to be solid, that is 100% image (solid). The white under other colors is only at about 50-60% as a halftone. Just enough to handle the opacity for the top colors.
I'm with Wayne, but then I'm about the same age. I'd use a highlight white with a higher mesh count underbase, but can usually pull off a good print without one using a 156.
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i have never messed with discharge print. I do not have the dryer for it. I have an OLD 8ft econored infrared dryer....without the airflow needed for discharge printing. From what i understand the ariflow isnt mandatory to have but it is extremely beneficial to have for discharge printing.
I've dabbled with discharge and have the same "old" econored dryer. 8 foot with 2 elements. It works in that dryer, but have to slow it way down to evaporate the water. As long as no extreme hurry, I'd give it a try sometime.
Cant do it on this job as much as i'd like to.....its a rush job so no time for experimenting.
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Just FYI, 2 minute tunnel dwell at ~ 325F should cure your DC/WB if you can run the dryer that slow and not be too hindered by burying the belt then I wouldn't let your dryer hold you back. We run it often with 8' of heat on a 24" belt on an old HIX with no air, and it's only a problem on really big prints or really large runs (500+pcs.).
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I'm with Wayne, but then I'm about the same age. I'd use a highlight white with a higher mesh count underbase, but can usually pull off a good print without one using a 156.
Like 2 peas in a pod, lol. 156 is exactly the mesh I use for both an underbase and white solid when I'm bypassing the highlight.
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Over here we would probably discharge it but if plastiol it would be:
150s underbase
flash
230s or 310s depending on what screens we had available for the rest
yellow
red
flash
highlight white
why would you flash after the red? is it because the red and white touch?
Sorry for the delay, for the first time every we had 5 pallets of shirts delivered to our shop and breaking it down and finding the room while keeping the shop going is quite a chore for a two man show.
We would flash before the white to prevent blurring and to eliminate the possiblity of the red ink contaminating the white ink on the highlight screen. If using S mesh you could also just print the underbase screen twice (php) and not use a highlight, S mesh will give greater opacity with less ink deposit if hand is a concern going this route. If you want to check out the CCI discharge system come stop by our shop and you could see it it would be a good fit for you. My only concern would be proper ventilation for you if you are printing from home. We have a hood on the infeed and outfeed of 12' of heat that has a blower where they exit the building which helps with discharge.
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Over here we would probably discharge it but if plastiol it would be:
150s underbase
flash
230s or 310s depending on what screens we had available for the rest
yellow
red
flash
highlight white
why would you flash after the red? is it because the red and white touch?
Sorry for the delay, for the first time every we had 5 pallets of shirts delivered to our shop and breaking it down and finding the room while keeping the shop going is quite a chore for a two man show.
We would flash before the white to prevent blurring and to eliminate the possiblity of the red ink contaminating the white ink on the highlight screen. If using S mesh you could also just print the underbase screen twice (php) and not use a highlight, S mesh will give greater opacity with less ink deposit if hand is a concern going this route. If you want to check out the CCI discharge system come stop by our shop and you could see it it would be a good fit for you. My only concern would be proper ventilation for you if you are printing from home. We have a hood on the infeed and outfeed of 12' of heat that has a blower where they exit the building which helps with discharge.
Cool..thanks for the invite...id love to go check out your place....let me know when its good time...im curious to see the discharge printing process.
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We are printing a 3000 piece discharge job on Monday. Both Brian and myself will be on press so we wont be able to give you the grand tour but your welcome to come peek your head in if you would like. Heck we may even let you check and box a few shirts ; )
Just PM if you think you would like to stop by.