TSB
screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: Rocfrog on October 24, 2013, 01:08:59 PM
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Not sure where to post this so I'll just put it here....
We are looking for a cheap reliable place to get new PMS "books"......ours are falling apart and missing "pages"....
Where do you guys get yours from?
Nick
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Got all of ours off of eBay or Amazon. Seem like they are cheaper than from a supplier.
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I bought off Amazon, saved a pretty penny.
Pantone Plus Series FORMULA Guides Solid Coated & Uncoated (Two-Guide Set) -$92.92
Shane
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we found someone selling just the uncoated book for 30 bucks on ebay. perfect condition. coated isn't going to sync up well with screenprinting inks...
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we found someone selling just the uncoated book for 30 bucks on ebay. perfect condition. coated isn't going to sync up well with screenprinting inks...
Actually, we only use the coated, never the uncoated, they are all grayed out, like using cheap copy paper in a color printer.
Steve
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Coated for plastisol, particularly over an underbase. Uncoated for waterbase/discharge.
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maybe its just our experience, but when we put the coated book up against a cured plastisol print, underbased or p/f/p and then mix to the color, it is always off and needs adjusting. Not as common with uncoated...:shrug: Both have been a crapshoot though for us on many colors.
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We almost never use uncoated anymore. The new paper just makes it look like butt. We use coated and keep in mind that the wb/dc colors will be on hue but with a matte finish in comparison.
Neither were made for textile inks and fabric and of course that shows.
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Even printing on uncoated paper, the coated book is closer for my system. The problem is that since the books are made for inks that are super thin film and transparent to boot, they tend to look way too dull and desaturated for any screenprinting ink colors if you are comparing uncoated to coated.
I'd be pretty bummed if my mixed colors turned out like the uncoated book.
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...A friend hooked me up with a PMS-M (matte) book which is really cool. The problem is that ALMOST NO ONE ELSE has the same book to reference to.
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Thanks for the reply's....I'll look into amazon.
We mix colors all the time to "match" the PMS colors our customers provide us, so these books help us a ton...hence why we need to replace them.
Nick
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Uncoated shows what offset inks will look like on uncoated stocks. uncoated paper will soak up ink and change the final color. The matt finish of the paper will also dull or even darken the color. Coated is more of a true pantone color to match too. When matching a color you should hold the pantone chip were the light reflection is away from you. This will give you a better representation of true color. If you don't do this your eye will lighten or darken the color to compensate for the highlights and low lights of the chip. You will never get a perfect match. Your goal should be a good representation of the pantone color. Anyone with education on color will know that a perfect match is impossible. Light (color as we see it) it effected by many variables. In a perfect color vacuum you may be able to match the color but in real life that "perfectly matched color" will look about a thousand different shades depending on how the environment reacts to it.
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WARNING! Stay away from the Pantone + series. It will make you batty trying to locate your color as it is not in numeric form. Huge fail for Pantone IMO
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Tony is right. The new books suck...there is an index in the back though...like that helps much.
Also, as screen printers we should NEVER use the uncoated book...unless a customer give us that number to match.
Coated vs uncoated strictly refers to offset printing when uncoated stock will absorb ink and make it a different color. We don't have that problem in our world. I know this from dating the daughter of an offset printer. When you print the same inks onto glossy or matte paper, the inks change color.
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Tony is right. The new books suck...there is an index in the back though...like that helps much.
Also, as screen printers we should NEVER use the uncoated book...unless a customer give us that number to match.
Coated vs uncoated strictly refers to offset printing when uncoated stock will absorb ink and make it a different color. We don't have that problem in our world. I know this from dating the daughter of an offset printer. When you print the same inks onto glossy or matte paper, the inks change color.
On the other hand, we aren't usually getting the glossy results of printing onto coated stock, so I have always advised clients to realistically expect something in between.
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WARNING! Stay away from the Pantone + series. It will make you batty trying to locate your color as it is not in numeric form. Huge fail for Pantone IMO
I need a new one and had just heard about the new ones that aren't in order. If Im looking online which book set should I get ?
The GP1401 looks like its in order but not sure .
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you can take the new books apart and reorder them. It takes about 20-30 min to get it done.
New books have additional colors and should probably be your first choice as the colors and formulas shift/change with time. . .
pierre
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I have an old Rutland coloring Book I use, it gets me very close to just about any color I need to mix with just a little playing around. I can't even tell you how old this joker is anyone know ?
Darryl
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I got the new book and yes it sux. why would they do that.