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« Last post by blue moon on August 14, 2025, 08:19:53 PM »
Been seeing folks saying that Geo Knight heat presses are hotter than the displayed/input temp on the controller. Is there a standard practice on how to measure the actual temp of a heat press? Do you press something and then hit it with a temp gun as soon as it opens? Or would shooting the laser on the heated top panel itself display the actual temp?
Any of you tried to really dial in your temps on a GK press? If so, what technique did you use? Any input is appreciated!
you'll want thermal strips. they change color once certain temp is reached so you can tell exactly. Might want to put in several different areas on the heating element to check for hot and cold spots. Should be available at most screenprint supply stores. I think Stahl's has them and they are likely to be pretty accurate. pierre
42
« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 14, 2025, 07:34:09 PM »
Been seeing folks saying that Geo Knight heat presses are hotter than the displayed/input temp on the controller. Is there a standard practice on how to measure the actual temp of a heat press? Do you press something and then hit it with a temp gun as soon as it opens? Or would shooting the laser on the heated top panel itself display the actual temp?
Any of you tried to really dial in your temps on a GK press? If so, what technique did you use? Any input is appreciated!
43
« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 14, 2025, 06:57:38 PM »
Anatol makes a stand alone flash called the Comet, which you can set a timer and it flashes whenever a pallet is under it for whatever time you set
That would be a quartz flash then, yeah?
Im not sure how much confidence I have in Anatol anymore. I ordered a jacket hold down from them once and when it arrived it would not open all the way, as the top "lid" part was hitting the pallet arm, stopping it from opening all the way. I couldn't believe how poorly designed it was. So they made a new one with some adjustments and that one also did not work properly. Finally they shrugged their shoulders and said "we dont know why its not working". So I cancelled my order. If they cant even design a jacket hold down to work on their presses, it gives me pause about ordering something as expensive as a quartz flash. I love my Thunder though, even if the powder coating failed in a couple of areas. Dont even get me started on that. Moving forward, I will be purchasing M&R presses only.
BBC makes a motorized swing away accessory for their Black Flashes. It is operated with a foot switch and has a timer to swing away after set time. Maybe Ill look into that. I do want a quartz flash, but a new gas conveyor is the next upgrade, as I am moving into a new studio that is currently under construction. Its a brand new construction and I made sure to have gas hooked up.
Hate to say this but you're going to very disappointed many day's in equipment as all companies have some bad product's here and there, M&R has a great service department for a reason as do a few other's, but I hope you find what you're looking for that will help streamline your production.
I understand that, but a jacket hold down isnt astrophysics ya know? How can they possibly not be able to get that right? It really soured me on Anatol. That and their sales guy calls me what feels like every other day.
44
« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 14, 2025, 06:54:40 PM »
You will definately get white dots if you over cure, especially when you print solid colors over a white base.
I also assume that the top colors won't adhere to the base as well if it is overcured.
Do you mean "over flash" and not "over cure"? The flash should not be hot enough to cure ink.
45
« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 14, 2025, 06:53:27 PM »
With smaller sizes we just lay the shirt on top of the table, we have no problem with this. I don't know why you would need a pillow, the table has a silicone rubber pad, we put a permanent teflon sheet over this. If you put a pillow inside the shirt it will take you forever to iron on
Because heat pressing causes a big rectangle mark on the shirt. Sometimes it can be rubbed out or it comes out in the wash, sometimes it doesn't. I have multiple customers who have complained about the press marks. The marks actually come from the rubber pad on the table, not the top heated plate. I can tell because the heated plate on the top part of the press has sharper, smaller radius rounded corners and the pad on the plate has larger radius corners. The press mark is the larger radius rounded corners. Another issue with just laying smaller sizes on the table is that the seams at the sleeves get the marks worse. Not to mention the table marks are visible on the front and back of the shirt. The pillows are to help reduce the marks by having less rigid edges. The rubber on the tables is too rigid. This happens no matter how low the temp is, or how low the pressure is. It is less visible on some colors and on some blankss, but we press a lot of Comfort Colors blanks and they get marks very easily. My customers hate the marks so its time to do something about it. Many customers might not even notice or care, but I am a perfectionist and will continue to strive to provide the highest quality products I can. These pillows are and nomex pads are offered for this exact reason and lots of folks use them and do not have issues with transfers not adhering.
46
« Last post by Maxie on August 14, 2025, 12:28:31 AM »
You will definately get white dots if you over cure, especially when you print solid colors over a white base.
I also assume that the top colors won't adhere to the base as well if it is overcured.
47
« Last post by Maxie on August 14, 2025, 12:23:31 AM »
With smaller sizes we just lay the shirt on top of the table, we have no problem with this. I don't know why you would need a pillow, the table has a silicone rubber pad, we put a permanent teflon sheet over this. If you put a pillow inside the shirt it will take you forever to iron on
48
« Last post by balloonguy on August 13, 2025, 08:12:07 PM »
okay- 55’s came in today. I think it looks a little better but Iam getting thread breaks every 100 stitches or so. Am I supposed to adjust other settings to use these smaller needles.
Thanks again.
49
« Last post by 3Deep on August 12, 2025, 04:00:05 PM »
Anatol makes a stand alone flash called the Comet, which you can set a timer and it flashes whenever a pallet is under it for whatever time you set
That would be a quartz flash then, yeah?
Im not sure how much confidence I have in Anatol anymore. I ordered a jacket hold down from them once and when it arrived it would not open all the way, as the top "lid" part was hitting the pallet arm, stopping it from opening all the way. I couldn't believe how poorly designed it was. So they made a new one with some adjustments and that one also did not work properly. Finally they shrugged their shoulders and said "we dont know why its not working". So I cancelled my order. If they cant even design a jacket hold down to work on their presses, it gives me pause about ordering something as expensive as a quartz flash. I love my Thunder though, even if the powder coating failed in a couple of areas. Dont even get me started on that. Moving forward, I will be purchasing M&R presses only.
BBC makes a motorized swing away accessory for their Black Flashes. It is operated with a foot switch and has a timer to swing away after set time. Maybe Ill look into that. I do want a quartz flash, but a new gas conveyor is the next upgrade, as I am moving into a new studio that is currently under construction. Its a brand new construction and I made sure to have gas hooked up.
Hate to say this but you're going to very disappointed many day's in equipment as all companies have some bad product's here and there, M&R has a great service department for a reason as do a few other's, but I hope you find what you're looking for that will help streamline your production.
50
« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 12, 2025, 11:50:44 AM »
We press a ton of DTF, sometimes just laying the shirt on and pressing say the front and back together doesn't work as well for us. So threading the shirt on the platen or pillow, makes it the correct heat.
But there are different factors in every shop.
What steps do you take to keep the press marks from happening? Esp on Comfort Colors, their dyes hate heat! I like this. It's a Nomex pad. I used it when I was doing die sub on flat items. It's stiffer then a pillow. but still has give so you don't get the hard edge.
You do want to put a teflon sheet on when you have a print facing it as it will pick up some of the fibers.
Interesting. How thick is that? How much does it compress? My thought is to get foam that sticks off the edge of the heat presses pallet, by 1/2" in all directions, to remove the hard edge of the pallet. No hard edge should result in no marks, I would think. That looks like a Geo Knight DK20S too, which is what I am working with.
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