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« Last post by Frog on August 07, 2025, 05:48:11 PM »
Although the "permanent" pillow underneath would help to equalize pressure due to uneven thickness of seams and such, it isn't nearly as effective in reducing the pressure marks they cause.
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« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 07, 2025, 04:21:21 PM »
Laid flat with a teflon pillow inside?
What Frog says, use a teflon pillow inside the smaller shirts if having issues. Also get a teflon sheet for the bottom platen, this way the shirt slides on way more easily.
Your pillow suggestion gave me an idea. I have never tried the pillows before, but they sound interesting. Then I thought, what if I just lay the pillow down first, and then the shirt laid flat on top, that way I do not have to mess with putting the pillow in the shirt at all. So basically just leaving the pillow as the cushion for the bottom pallet, essentially replacing the foam rubber that comes attached to the pallet. Then I got to thinking, well since I already have the pallet wrapped in one of those teflon wraps, why not put the pillow under that wrap, allowing it to trap the pillow between the pallet and the wrap. Which would hold the pillow in place. Again essentially just replacing the pallet top with the pillow. This has me pretty excited! I am easily entertained I know. Then I thought, since I already have the telfon wrap for the pallet, why even buy a teflon wrapped pillow just to trap it. Why not just source a sheet of high temp foam and trap it under there. I could buy a sheet that hangs off the edges of the stock pallet by a 1/2" on all sides, which would eliminate any hard edges of the pallet. Time to start sourcing high temp foam! Thoughts on this?
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« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 07, 2025, 03:43:40 PM »
Just in my head..
For me there was no set " time" . Different types apparel react differently to the flash. Also when I started I did not have heat in my shop. So it ewas different in the winter than the summer. You do one or 2 shirts of an order and that was it. No overthinking.
And yes one time, one time we had a customer bring back shirts because the top colors washed off the underbase. Someone one we were training did it on their first order. I can not say If it was over flashing, but it happened.
Understood. Sounds like I need to just get over the whole "every shirt must have an identical flash time", and just let the pallets spin as I work. Thanks for the input.
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« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 07, 2025, 03:38:28 PM »
Could you use one of their smaller "tables" to swap out for the smaller shirts to eliminate the "stretching"?
DKP-1012TBL or DKP-1416TBL
https://www.heatpress.com/products/dk-10-x-12-table-all-thread-style
Looks like they offer a number of optional "tables" on their web site that are compatible with the DK20S
I considered that, but that doesn't help when I am pressing a 20" long print on a size Small. I am considering ordering a new 16"x20" pallet and modifying it. Laid flat with a teflon pillow inside?
Teflon pillow inside the shirt?
Im talking about loading a shirt onto the "pallet" of the press. Heat press MFGs call the pallets "tables". I do have a teflon wrap on the top heater part of the press, and one on the table as well (overkill maybe but nothing ever sticks), but I do not put anything in the shirt itself, well other than the cushion of the table. Does that make sense?
Here is a link to a video of the loading of a shirt. This is what I am talking about. They must have used a size L or XL for this demonstration. Would love to see them show us a size S and load it, cuz it will stretch. Scroll to the 2:20 mark for the loading or "threading" of the shirt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiMK17stv_Y
I know I can lay the shirt flat, both front and back layers, but then the layer I am not pressing gets press marks too. I am trying to eliminate the marks on both sides of the shirt, wanting to press just the side with the print (say front only).
What Frog says, use a teflon pillow inside the smaller shirts if having issues. Also get a teflon sheet for the bottom platen, this way the shirt slides on way more easily.
I have a MEM Double heat press (2 of them) with a pedal. We have youth platens for it, but have never used them. We have had no issues.
I have teflon wraps on top and bottom, so im covered. And yes that def helps slide garments on and off, but does not help with the stretching. I guess I will look into the pillow, but that sounds like it adds a lot of time to each press, having to insert and pull out for every shirt. Sounds like the MEM press has a better pallet mounting setup, that doesn't stretch the tees. Wish Geo Knight would address this because it is such a simple design fix.
85
« Last post by whitewater on August 07, 2025, 02:47:26 PM »
Just in my head..
For me there was no set " time" . Different types apparel react differently to the flash. Also when I started I did not have heat in my shop. So it ewas different in the winter than the summer. You do one or 2 shirts of an order and that was it. No overthinking.
And yes one time, one time we had a customer bring back shirts because the top colors washed off the underbase. Someone one we were training did it on their first order. I can not say If it was over flashing, but it happened.
86
« Last post by whitewater on August 07, 2025, 02:42:26 PM »
Laid flat with a teflon pillow inside?
Teflon pillow inside the shirt?
Im talking about loading a shirt onto the "pallet" of the press. Heat press MFGs call the pallets "tables". I do have a teflon wrap on the top heater part of the press, and one on the table as well (overkill maybe but nothing ever sticks), but I do not put anything in the shirt itself, well other than the cushion of the table. Does that make sense?
Here is a link to a video of the loading of a shirt. This is what I am talking about. They must have used a size L or XL for this demonstration. Would love to see them show us a size S and load it, cuz it will stretch. Scroll to the 2:20 mark for the loading or "threading" of the shirt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiMK17stv_Y
I know I can lay the shirt flat, both front and back layers, but then the layer I am not pressing gets press marks too. I am trying to eliminate the marks on both sides of the shirt, wanting to press just the side with the print (say front only).
What Frog says, use a teflon pillow inside the smaller shirts if having issues. Also get a teflon sheet for the bottom platen, this way the shirt slides on way more easily. I have a MEM Double heat press (2 of them) with a pedal. We have youth platens for it, but have never used them. We have had no issues.
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« Last post by screenxpress on August 07, 2025, 02:29:23 PM »
Could you use one of their smaller "tables" to swap out for the smaller shirts to eliminate the "stretching"? DKP-1012TBL or DKP-1416TBL https://www.heatpress.com/products/dk-10-x-12-table-all-thread-styleLooks like they offer a number of optional "tables" on their web site that are compatible with the DK20S
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« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 07, 2025, 02:14:54 PM »
Laid flat with a teflon pillow inside?
Teflon pillow inside the shirt? Im talking about loading a shirt onto the "pallet" of the press. Heat press MFGs call the pallets "tables". I do have a teflon wrap on the top heater part of the press, and one on the table as well (overkill maybe but nothing ever sticks), but I do not put anything in the shirt itself, well other than the cushion of the table. Does that make sense? Here is a link to a video of the loading of a shirt. This is what I am talking about. They must have used a size L or XL for this demonstration. Would love to see them show us a size S and load it, cuz it will stretch. Scroll to the 2:20 mark for the loading or "threading" of the shirt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiMK17stv_YI know I can lay the shirt flat, both front and back layers, but then the layer I am not pressing gets press marks too. I am trying to eliminate the marks on both sides of the shirt, wanting to press just the side with the print (say front only).
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« Last post by spencer_L&KC on August 07, 2025, 02:03:49 PM »
Like the title says, is over flashing actually something to be cautious of? Or is it a myth? Obviously leaving the shirt under the flash for extended times isnt great, but when it comes to making sure to keep a print tacky, how important is it really?
Has anyone here ever seen top colors not adhere to a base, and maybe even come off, not from under curing, but from flashing too long?
Has anyone here ever seen a second pass of white come off the first pass?
I have been printing since 2011, printing professionally since 2018. I have never once seen a top color or second pass of white detach from a base, and I know for sure that at some point I "over flashed" a print or two in that time. Still though, no issues with top coats adhering to the base. Another user on here mentioned in another thread that "over flashing" could be a myth, so I am very curious to hear what some of the other pros think on the subject. I am not a newbie, but posted here so actual newbies can find and learn from this thread.
So what say you? Thanks for reading!
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« Last post by Frog on August 07, 2025, 01:57:50 PM »
Laid flat with a teflon pillow inside?
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