REALLY Bright/Opaque Neon Green

[alan802]

I'm having some trouble with a contract customer in picking out a bright green ink.  I've used our old flouro/neon green which is lacking in opacity (of course it is...this is nothing new) but it looks ok.  Bought a new gallon of neon green today and did a sample print for them and they didn't like it either.  The customer has a pic of some guy in a casino wearing a black shirt with a very bright neon green print (probably a vinyl transfer due to the opacity) but without having the shirt in my hands I can't really say whether it's a direct print or a transfer.  I've got color charts from Union, QCM, Rutland, Wilflex but nothing is any brighter than the 2 inks I've already printed. 

Does anyone have a specific color and brand they could recommend for this?  The inks I have in stock closely resemble Union's traffic green and QCM's signal green just to give you an idea of what I've tried.

[Frog]

Are you using a white underbase?

[ebscreen]

To add to Andy, are you printing two underbases? We've found it pretty much necessary for bright neons with
large coverage.

Wilflex Blacklight Green is my favorite.

[Binkspot]

CCI discharge fluro colors are pretty bright.

[jvanick]

To add to Andy, are you printing two underbases? We've found it pretty much necessary for bright neons with
large coverage.

Wilflex Blacklight Green is my favorite.

this right here... print, flash, print, flash then neon or other FL colors... at least on black.

[jsheridan]

Yep..double white!

[ZooCity]

Sericol Fluoro Green DC is our go to. 

For non dischargeables it's either 2x UB (it needs to not only be super white but super duper smooth)

or

you can try an HO Fluoro plastisol.  They have white in them and lose some of the crazy neon punch but might cover over a single, smooth UB. 

You need to drop a lot of ink on top that perfect, smooth white base to get a really loud fluoro.  It needs the perfect base and it needs enough thickness to refract light through the ink film.  I learned this part from Colin years ago.  In some cases it can take so much plastisol ink that I'm not sure there's much advantage to the hand of the print over just using a neon cad transfer, but again depends on the situation.

[Colin]

Like Chris said..... the print will be truly Bullet proof.

Fluorescent green is Fluorescent green.  If you want it opaque... you add some white.  You want it REALLY BRIGHT?  3-5 LAYERS THICK!  AND NO WHITE ADDED.

yay joy and happiness..... printing flo color sucks.  Period.  Well, maybe not sucks.... but it is labor intensive.

You know how it goes Alan.  When you have a PIGMENT that is that translucent, you have to lay down several layers in order to get the color you see in the bucket.  No way around it.

Otherwise, try the discharge flo colors.

[sben763]

Unions Maxopaque neon traffic green almost glows user certin lighting.  You can also mix the neon traffic green and orbit yellow for a reallly bright neon green. I just printed a very picky customers stuff and they liked the mixture I used with the neon orbit and neon traffic green. 

Edit they where both from the maxopake line. 

[mk162]

go 230 on all 3 screens.  that is the only way we got a good neon here...on triblends.

[blue moon]

another vote for the DC fluos here. . .

pierre

[diavale]

Ive done alot of crazy stuff to got opacities and colors right, but what mesh count are you guys using with double ub. Bulletproof is an understatement. You could measure thickness with a ruler.

[alan802]

Yeah, used to double base flouros and neons and still might do that if I have a very translucent ink but if the top colors have even a little opacity to them we don't need to as often due to some of the specialized mesh counts we use.  The customer has that pic of the "print" and wants us to hit that color

That maxopaque traffic green sounds interesting.  I mixed up a small batch of bright green using flouro yellow and dallas green that turned out great and I'm waiting on word back from the customer on whether they like it or not.

Brad, that's interesting that you're getting a bright neon with that high of a mesh count.  Are you single stroking or doubling the 230 base?

[mk162]

double on the 230 base to get it through.  it puts down a really thin base so the prints aren't crazy thick.

[Ryan]

what about going with One Strokes Neons? aren't they pretty opaque?