Old used exp unit questions and alterations.

[Dottonedan]

THis National Exp unit is old but still comes on.


The vacuum works but has a 2" tear in near the tube connection.


Integrator is not working. It all comes on just by plugging it in. The on/off switches are not working at all.  So I think someone made it to just come on when plugged in.


All lights are coming on from a cold start, but I've not seen it "BUMP UP" to a more intense level. I'm expecting it to be much brighter. Don't they just increase when ramped up? This one so far, just keeps running at this same intensity and when looking at it with the lid open, yes, it's bright (but maybe not that bright).

[Frog]

What is the model number of that unit? Do you know what type of light that main one is?

The two auxiliary lights appear to be quartz, and I worry that the center is as well, since there is no shutter. (Otherwise, you win with with a hot strike metal halide!)

The three lights defeat the purpose of a single point source, and I wonder if the previous owner added the extra two to decrease time.

The vacuum top, especially after repair, is the strong point on this unit. If I'm correct about the quartz lights, and you want to step up the performance, you could drop a light/shutter/integrator Olec or similar in there since they pop up used quite often.

[Dottonedan]

What is the model number of that unit?


Do you know what type of light that main one is? halogen- for the single point) and (was) fluorescent originally, but are now those other ones. (combination of multi-point and single point).

The two auxiliary lights appear to be quartz, and I worry that the center is as well, since there is no shutter. (Otherwise, you win with with a hot strike metal halide!) It's a halogen. Do halogen need warmed up?

The three lights defeat the purpose of a single point source, and I wonder if the previous owner added the extra two to decrease time. The original system actually came with florescent also. I read that this unit (with florescent) is a mid level unit. Designed for mid level detail. Unlike a start up florescent unit.



The vacuum top, especially after repair, is the strong point on this unit. If I'm correct about the quartz lights, and you want to step up the performance, you could drop a light/shutter/integrator Olec or similar in there since they pop up used quite often.

Anyone repair these yourself?  Looks like you could prob. do a tire patch on it from the bottom of the blanket?

Also,  does that picture look really really weak with the lights on?  Should be brighter right?  Could still use it but with very long times I expect.

Thanks
DAN

[Nick Bane]

yeah those are halogens and will take forever. they wont get brighter than what they are and put off a lot of heat too.  if it were me and i was going for low budget, i might try swapping the lights out for a simple 1k metal halide.  can be found cheap on CL and maybe make a manual shutter for it so as not to have to hot strike it.

[ScreenFoo]

Frog's right on there--assuming hinges are OK and the glass is nice, you can get a blanket and seal cheap, it'd be a nice unit with a good light and integrator in it.
If it's like the one I play around with it's got a nice layout in the back with a terminal strip, it's a pain getting to the side control panel (if that's where it is on yours.)
Like Nick said--especially if you do thicker stencils, be prepared to wait.  It is a cold strike halogen.  The fluo tubes if you get them to work, will undercut dots.

[3Deep]

Dan, that unit is just like my unit (different brand) 2 flos on the side with one point light in the middle....I burn screens at 4 mintues white mesh and 2 mintues yellow mesh and I get plenty detail, the emulsion brand you use and how you coat (dual or one part) will dictate your burn times.  The MH lights are great love have one, but happy right now with my unit.

Darryl

[Dottonedan]

Correction.


The single point is a Quartz. So it says (on the original on/off panel).

[mk162]

dan, I emailed you...seriously?  That thing looks like a hunk of junk.  Nothing works right on it, you will spend more time and money d!cking around with it than using it.

[Frog]

As I kinda' suggested, if it was mine, I would install my big 5000k Olec.
Then, essentially, only the Vacuum frame and cabinet of this unit would be used.

The addition and fabrication of a shutter for a standard MH on something like this gets a little involved with maybe even major sheet metal work if a small shutter that does not overheat the bulb can't be devised.

In the end though, with a vacuum, and some spare time, even a quartz halogen unit can make great screens.
In fact, though less than ideal, with a vacuum, most screens would probably be pretty darn good even with fluorescent tubes.
The Question is, will Dan's work be the bread and butter simple ones that really drive the industry that any unit can handle, or the sophisticated beauties that he typically shows off from other shops which test a unit's limits?

[3Deep]

I agree good equipment can help, but the real deal is the person, I,ve seen some doggone good work done on a flo tube unit very detailed work. If I had everything Bluemoon has I still couldn't do what he is doing his prints are killer.

Darryl

[Frog]

I agree good equipment can help, but the real deal is the person, I,ve seen some doggone good work done on a flo tube unit very detailed work. If I had everything Bluemoon has I still couldn't do what he is doing his prints are killer.

Darryl

Nope, Killer's are different  ba-da-bang !