What have you printed lately?

[tonypep]

Notice how nice and clean these dischrge prints are. And check out the color vibrancy. This is part of the reason I believe this process; when executed properly, is superior to a plastisol or even plasticharge underbased print. The fun comes when you start playing around with halftones, overlays, bleeds, etc
Nicely done folks

[JBLUE]

Notice how nice and clean these dischrge prints are. And check out the color vibrancy. This is part of the reason I believe this process; when executed properly, is superior to a plastisol or even plasticharge underbased print. The fun comes when you start playing around with halftones, overlays, bleeds, etc
Nicely done folks

Thanks Tony. Thanks also for all the information that you share about this process. I am pretty excited about doing more stuff. Right now the biggest curve is getting the whole process from screens to print dialed in and I will be much happier. Halftones are next in line for a run of company shirts to hand out.

Squeegee those are nice prints man!!!!

[JBLUE]

Here's a couple we did

sericol for blue and grey, rutland for white, all 150's, flashed between colors, gildan 5000


sericol for green, the mix was a b!tch, white rutland, 230/40 for green, 150 for white and double stroked, flashed between colors, delta 11730 grass green

How come you flashed between the colors on the Mid Atlantic one? Using a 150 mesh depositing to much ink for wet on wet?

[tonypep]

I just noticed that about the flashing.........I absolutely never need to do this. Maybe a just in case?

[Socalfmf]

Artwork done by Dot-tone-Dan...he was awesome...he is making me look good....

Enjoy...

Sam

[squeegee]

I just noticed that about the flashing.........I absolutely never need to do this. Maybe a just in case?

The result was noticibly better on both prints with than without, so I don't know.  We've done some that are fine without, others that are not, could have been the garments...

[mk162]

I am glad somebody is making you look good Sam.

[Socalfmf]

no kidding huh brad....

[squeegee]

How come you flashed between the colors on the Mid Atlantic one? Using a 150 mesh depositing to much ink for wet on wet?

Could be I suppose, the print looked okay WOW but popped more with flashing.  Like I was saying to Tony, some of our prints look great WOW, others have looked better flashed.  150/48 or 230/40 are what we usually use for spot color discharge, maybe it's just me but higher than that has needed a double hit if it's high coverage area to really pop like the Mid Atlantic design.  I noticed you were adding water to yours, maybe that would help with penetration and help get away from flashing?  What % do you add?

[blue moon]

could it be that flashing removes some moisture from the shirt and you get a better cure?
do the colors change if you run them through the dryer twice?

just a thought, 'very limited discharge experience here . . .

pierre

[squeegee]

could it be that flashing removes some moisture from the shirt and you get a better cure?
do the colors change if you run them through the dryer twice?

just a thought, 'very limited discharge experience here . . .

pierre

I don't think that's the issue because single color prints and some WOW multi color prints are fine through our dryer, we have tried double passes and nothing changes.  I know many say no need to flash, so I'd like to know how/what to change, no flashing sounds good to me.

[tonypep]

Probably is the Sericol RFU (Ithink that's what you're using). I always use a PC/Base and can better control pigment strength. Also activator strength. Sometimes 8% is too much for some colors especially deep hues. Never use white PC or ink in formulas BTW unless for a pastel. And red always pops a tick more when printed last in sequence.

[squeegee]

I have settled on RFU for colors basically because it's already hard enough to make colors without factoring in max pigment loads, but I'd revisit that possibly.  So I know you use CCI base right, Oasis pigments, both I have, so let me ask you, what would be the max pigment % used to base do you think?  I know in Oasis soft base the max recommended is 6% and I have gotten away with a tad over 7%, but in discharge base?

[blue moon]

could it be that flashing removes some moisture from the shirt and you get a better cure?
do the colors change if you run them through the dryer twice?

just a thought, 'very limited discharge experience here . . .

pierre

I don't think that's the issue because single color prints and some WOW multi color prints are fine through our dryer, we have tried double passes and nothing changes.  I know many say no need to flash, so I'd like to know how/what to change, no flashing sounds good to me.

oh, well it was worth a shot!

pierre

[JBLUE]

How come you flashed between the colors on the Mid Atlantic one? Using a 150 mesh depositing to much ink for wet on wet?

Could be I suppose, the print looked okay WOW but popped more with flashing.  Like I was saying to Tony, some of our prints look great WOW, others have looked better flashed.  150/48 or 230/40 are what we usually use for spot color discharge, maybe it's just me but higher than that has needed a double hit if it's high coverage area to really pop like the Mid Atlantic design.  I noticed you were adding water to yours, maybe that would help with penetration and help get away from flashing?  What % do you add?

I have been adding 5% by weight for water. I was told that it would help with the drying of ink on the screen. I have not played with different water %'s yet to see the different effects that it has. I have not had a drying problem even when it has been hot so this might be why. On this particular one I used 7% agent for the yellow, 5% for the red, 3% for the blue, and 3% for the white.