TSB
General => General Discussion and ??? => Topic started by: 3Deep on October 08, 2014, 02:26:09 PM
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Looking at some of the print's in the what have you printed, we all take great pride in our on print styles and the way we get there. How about we all do this just members here that have the time and want to do it get a 4 color pc of art like a nice large size jpeg and choose which press to print it auto or manual using the same color inks in whatever brand you use in your shop. Then post your printed shirt and the shirt has to be of the same color which ever brand you use and I think we all use about the same brands, I think this would be fun to poke a little fun at each others work and show off some skills that we might have and to make it even better send all shirts to maybe Frog and let him post each shirt without us knowing who printed what and vote, then at the end we get to bash and praise each others work all in good clean fun. I know I'm in and ready to be poked at LOL :-[ Oh everyone must print the same pc of jpeg art
darryl
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I'd love to tie this into what I suggested in the What have you printed thread, where we document our variables and discuss them in clusters arranged under general headings. After each discussion we could go back and print another round using whatever we have all learned to optimize and improve. After a few rounds we should all have better prints and be better printers I think.
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no need to print many colors, one will suffice!
everybody prints the attached file on a gildan ultra cotton and I can tell you the results (measure with densitometer so no bias).
how about that?
pierre
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I'm totally in...
I like the idea of a 4cp, but I also agree with pierre...
maybe we do both?
-J
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A one color like pierre linked would be a great starting point actually as it will help us lock down the variables associated with film output and gain on press.
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That's good P, but I would still like to see a 3 to 4 color print of real art and how people handle a pc of jpeg art and bring it to life using the same ink colors.
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Films coming out now P....
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no need to print many colors, one will suffice!
everybody prints the attached file on a gildan ultra cotton and I can tell you the results (measure with densitometer so no bias).
how about that?
pierre
LOL, Pierre, just perfect, or is it? The readings will tell
Steve
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How about a few different categories, one per month?
- 3-4 Spot Color Design
- Athletic Block, P/F/P. White on black, no roller squeegee.
- Sim Process Greyscale
- Sim Process Full Color
- One Hit White
- Pierre's "I'm Screwed" Halftone Test Chart
- Etc..
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so are we going to print pierre's file the same way for everybody?
ie: 55lpi/22.5/ellipse/230mesh or is more however we feel at the moment?
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ok, color me 3 shades of stupid but. P, on this print test, what are the steps? are we talking burn it on a 230, print a dozen or so test prints THEN do a strike off and test that or do you test the very first print made with the screen? I don't quit understand all this fancy testing stuff yet...
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The first few prints will be light Homer, they darken up a bit then settle down. Like Pierre and others, we run 12 - 20 before we show a print to anyone. So yes, I would run a number of them to get to the one for the testing. You can see it happen pretty much, it gets a little darker, then stays there and doesn't get any darker...
Steve
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The first few prints will be light Homer, they darken up a bit then settle down. Like Pierre and others, we run 12 - 20 before we show a print to anyone. So yes, I would run a number of them to get to the one for the testing. You can see it happen pretty much, it gets a little darker, then stays there and doesn't get any darker...
Steve
thanks, that's why I ask because I know after a dozen prints we are a bit different than when we started...just need to make sure I know what to send haha
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ok, color me 3 shades of stupid but. P, on this print test, what are the steps? are we talking burn it on a 230, print a dozen or so test prints THEN do a strike off and test that or do you test the very first print made with the screen? I don't quit understand all this fancy testing stuff yet...
tho goal is to make it as bright as possible (on the one solid square) and keep the halftones correct (the size has to be the same as the film. If you put it on top of the print, film should cover the dots. If anything is peaking, you are gaining). The pisser is going to be keeping it bright and keeping correct size. I don't think we could do that with one screen, so therein lies the challenge. I would venture to guess many a bold head develops as a consequence of trying to make it work (for anybody really putting in the effort). And it could be a most educational/eye opening print of the last year or two for majority here.
Maybe we should start with a black ink on a white shirt, that would be easier. . .
pierre
p.s. we hold the 3% and our 50% read 52% last time I tried this with black ink on white shirt (Richard dared me so I had to prove it to him).
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ok, color me 3 shades of stupid but. P, on this print test, what are the steps? are we talking burn it on a 230, print a dozen or so test prints THEN do a strike off and test that or do you test the very first print made with the screen? I don't quit understand all this fancy testing stuff yet...
tho goal is to make it as bright as possible (on the one solid square) and keep the halftones correct (the size has to be the same as the film. If you put it on top of the print, film should cover the dots. If anything is peaking, you are gaining). The pisser is going to be keeping it bright and keeping correct size. I don't think we could do that with one screen, so therein lies the challenge. I would venture to guess many a bold head develops as a consequence of trying to make it work (for anybody really putting in the effort). And it could be a most educational/eye opening print of the last year or two for majority here.
Maybe we should start with a black ink on a white shirt, that would be easier. . .
pierre
p.s. we hold the 3% and our 50% read 52% last time I tried this with black ink on white shirt (Richard dared me so I had to prove it to him).
p.p.s. I should say, I hold that. The new staff is still getting up to speed. I'd give them a 5% and 55-60%
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I'm planning on 55lpi/22.5/elipse/225S, 230, and 280 (just for in house comparison purposes...I'll post whatever the consensus is). 10th print should have the kinks worked out I would think...
I'm already terrified to show everyone how bad mine will be :D
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ok, color me 3 shades of stupid but. P, on this print test, what are the steps? are we talking burn it on a 230, print a dozen or so test prints THEN do a strike off and test that or do you test the very first print made with the screen? I don't quit understand all this fancy testing stuff yet...
tho goal is to make it as bright as possible (on the one solid square) and keep the halftones correct (the size has to be the same as the film. If you put it on top of the print, film should cover the dots. If anything is peaking, you are gaining). The pisser is going to be keeping it bright and keeping correct size. I don't think we could do that with one screen, so therein lies the challenge. I would venture to guess many a bold head develops as a consequence of trying to make it work (for anybody really putting in the effort). And it could be a most educational/eye opening print of the last year or two for majority here.
Maybe we should start with a black ink on a white shirt, that would be easier. . .
pierre
p.s. we hold the 3% and our 50% read 52% last time I tried this with black ink on white shirt (Richard dared me so I had to prove it to him).
Pierre, you are holding a 55 line 3% dot on a 230 mesh count? :-\
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ok, color me 3 shades of stupid but. P, on this print test, what are the steps? are we talking burn it on a 230, print a dozen or so test prints THEN do a strike off and test that or do you test the very first print made with the screen? I don't quit understand all this fancy testing stuff yet...
tho goal is to make it as bright as possible (on the one solid square) and keep the halftones correct (the size has to be the same as the film. If you put it on top of the print, film should cover the dots. If anything is peaking, you are gaining). The pisser is going to be keeping it bright and keeping correct size. I don't think we could do that with one screen, so therein lies the challenge. I would venture to guess many a bold head develops as a consequence of trying to make it work (for anybody really putting in the effort). And it could be a most educational/eye opening print of the last year or two for majority here.
Maybe we should start with a black ink on a white shirt, that would be easier. . .
pierre
p.s. we hold the 3% and our 50% read 52% last time I tried this with black ink on white shirt (Richard dared me so I had to prove it to him).
Pierre, you are holding a 55 line 3% dot on a 230 mesh count? :-\
not going to happen! 330S for that. I can get 5%-6% out of the 225S from what I remember.
pierre
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Y'all have too much time on your hands LOL
I'd love to join in on the fun but damn I have some pieces of artwork that I've been wanting to print for months now that I cannot find the time to do let alone something like this LOL
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You're exempt Danny. Wouldn't want you to make us all look bad... :D
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Y'all have too much time on your hands LOL
I'd love to join in on the fun but damn I have some pieces of artwork that I've been wanting to print for months now that I cannot find the time to do let alone something like this LOL
Danny, it's one screen! you can find 10 min that it takes to do that!
pierre
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and I'll bring them all to Long Beach!
pierre
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Could be a cool learning and skill building thing for members here. I agree with Danny, my to do list is years old! Maybe if there was a new "project" every quarter...
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Maybe we can use a favorite grayscale image, but add a 0% -100% bar on the side in 5% increments for the measurements... I talked to our head printer about this, he's psyched to give it a try. Now, to choose an image...
Steve
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Maybe we can use a favorite grayscale image, but add a 0% -100% bar on the side in 5% increments for the measurements... I talked to our head printer about this, he's psyched to give it a try. Now, to choose an image...
Steve
that would be a good learning exercise, but the file I posted will tell you a lot more. You will see the quality of your RIP, how good it transitions from 0-100 (without banding), consistency of the opacity vs gradient and it also has gradients from 0-10 and 90-100 in 1% increments. On top of it all, it would be easier to compare the identical prints from everybody. Using a unique image would leave some to interpretation.
pierre
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so do we start with a black ink on white?
pierre
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Well hell what was wrong with my idea!! it was MY POST DAMMIT! ;D yall just don't like me no more I see how it is :'( really this fine, but I still like the idea of doing a 3 to 4 color print of the same art,maybe at a later date.
darryl
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Well hell what was wrong with my idea!! it was MY POST DAMMIT! ;D yall just don't like me no more I see how it is :'( really this fine, but I still like the idea of doing a 3 to 4 color print of the same art,maybe at a later date.
darryl
agreed Darryl, but we should crawl before we can walk. It is also easier to find time for one color print than anything that needs to be registered.
pierre
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I think this is a perfect starting point. Once we have dialed in out film output using this we can start testing ourselves with more complex work, which will bring in a whole host of other variables we can work on together.
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everybody print on the Gildan 2000 so the readings are consistent.
I'll check them all out, but need somebody to take the lead on everything else. Any takers?
pierre
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Ugh I have none of those in my shop. G5000 White ok?
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Ugh I have none of those in my shop. G5000 White ok?
get a couple next time you are ordering. G2000 will print significantly better than G5000, might as well put your best foot forward.
also having everybody on the same garment will make the readings uniform. Densitometer is not real happy reading off the shirts.
pierre
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Well hell what was wrong with my idea!! it was MY POST DAMMIT! ;D yall just don't like me no more I see how it is :'( really this fine, but I still like the idea of doing a 3 to 4 color print of the same art,maybe at a later date.
darryl
Or that... :( sorry brother. I was thinking we were getting there after tweaking our best one color halftone work, then all 4 colors would have their best representations...
Steve
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So P we sending all sample to you right? and how many on white shirts....
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yup!
blue moon
c/o pierre
33851 curtis blvd #215
eastlake, oh 44095
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so did we ever come to consensus on how to print these? 55lpi/22.5/elipse on a 230 or???
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so did we ever come to consensus on how to print these? 55lpi/22.5/elipse on a 230 or???
you do the best you can with the tools available to you. I will print with 330S.
the coverage has to be solid and I know we can deposit enough with 330S mesh to do that. 305 would not work and 230 will not hold the detail. 225S will probably do as good as 305 (at least for us).
pierre
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yup!
blue moon
c/o pierre
33851 curtis blvd #215
eastlake, oh 44095
I'll deliver mine in person, i'll be in OH on the 20th.
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yup!
blue moon
c/o pierre
33851 curtis blvd #215
eastlake, oh 44095
I'll deliver mine in person, i'll be in OH on the 20th.
I am off to SGIA and KPI20 meeting on the 20th. Should be at the airport around noon. What time are you landing?
pierre
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So... using the scientific method is out of the question then?
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So... using the scientific method is out of the question then?
sorry, not following?
pierre
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What is the deadline for getting the shirts in?
Are we supposed to be recording all parameters for comparison? Like stencil thickness, emulsion used, mesh, tension, exposure used...etc?
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So... using the scientific method is out of the question then?
Seriously, work on how you communicate with people online...
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What is the deadline for getting the shirts in?
Are we supposed to be recording all parameters for comparison? Like stencil thickness, emulsion used, mesh, tension, exposure used...etc?
I think for now, print it using whatever method you feel is best. Pierre will look at the results and give you feedback, then we can all discuss what might be the problem variables and how to fix them.
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So... using the scientific method is out of the question then?
So, having everyone put their best foot forward to follow a few parameters, then submit results for readings and conversation on ways to improve our efforts is not good enough for you? Why not just sit this one out?
Steve
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I am off to SGIA and KPI20 meeting on the 20th. Should be at the airport around noon. What time are you landing?
pierre
Kinda figured you were going to SGIA, i land around 6am then it's get the car and head to the shop.
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bringing this back
I was able to make some screens last week and this was actually a great way to exposure test my screens. As I'm using SBQ emulsion, exposing up to the point of detail loss helped me dial in my 305 mesh exposure.
Using this tonal image, I was able to shoot for 3.5 light units and hold some of the 1% dots. It even printed on the shirt. The 90% tonal range was kind of a wash as were some other areas but I was amazed at my ability to hold and print just about the entire tonal range.
Since we don't have any gildans in the shop I'm not able to get the shirt to Pierre this week.
However.. while in cleveland this week I'll put this on screen and do another print using their equipment and emulsion to try and replicate.
I left the test print at the shop and didn't take a pic so i'll have to post that when I get back.
Ho have the rest of you made out with your testing?